'Every Man Dies Alone'

Book Review

Just recently I discovered Hans Fallada, a profound, deeply sensitive, newly translated German author who, in Every Man Dies Alone, explores the disturbing question of what it means to be fully human when surrounded by war and oppression.

In his novel, Fallada takes us into the destructive, disturbing atmosphere that he lived through, one that few writers have being able to describe in such detail. I felt that I was in Berlin living through the cruelty of the times; seeing, touching, feeling all the fear and tension that was felt by the majority of the German population living under the Hitler regime. In Nazi-controlled Germany during WWII, the loss of individual freedom became so stultifying that each person was left with a choice to either survive in half death, or risk everything by defying the system.

In Every Man Dies Alone, Fallada parades all manner of men before us in a compelling, deeply moving and true story which he turned into a novel. Obscure for many years, Fallada’s books are finally being translated into English.

This beautifully crafted masterpiece tells tells the horrendous tale of an elderly, working-class German couple living in Berlin during the Nazi Regime. It takes the reader on a suspenseful journey into the psychological conflict between what men do, and what they ought to do, when they observe injustice. It compels us to reflect on the world we live in. While most of us grow up reading about heroines and heros who have the courage to stand up for truth and justice, years pass, and our childhood dreams of noble acts of courage fade. We meld into the politically correct, safe, status quo, “don’t rock the boat” pattern -- but even in democracies, although minor by comparison, there are consequences This is not rational to the idealist, but it is a fact of life. One's freedom can gradually get chipped away unless it is guarded as a sacred right. Across the world freedom, compassion and human rights must be looked upon as necessary for the survival of the entire human race and the next step toward both intellectual and spiritual enlightenment.

Indeed there was nothing spiritual or religious about Otto Quarangel, or his wife Anna, living through WWII, yet there was a decency alive in the very marrow of their bones. They were both practical, hard-working people. He worked in a factory, she kept their little apartment clean and lived for the return of her son from the war. When they receive tragic news about their son’s death, their world changes, and they realize they have to choose to feel “free” by standing up to the Nazi suppression or slowly dying within. They choose the former and risk their lives in the hope that it will bring about a response from more German's hiding the same sentiments.

The book is filled with passion and a parade of despicable characters in positions of authority within the regime. This is brilliant writing as it weaves a refreshing thread of ironic humor throughout. The reader will meet some of the slimiest, most cowardly and vicious of men, all puppets of Hitler wielding authority over their own people with a vengeance and a goal of de-humanizing a whole culture. In this suspenseful page-turner the only hope is that the regime will fall and the war will end before all is lost.

Hans Fallada is an expert on the human condition, his writing cuts to heart of man’s inhumanity to man and how far and how deep this wielding sword can reach. This is a book that will last in our memories as it subtly challenges the reader to ask, “What would I do in the same circumstances?'

Hans Fallada was born in 1893, the son of a magistrate, and he lived until February 5, 1947, having survived WWI and WWII. Every Man Dies Alone was first published after his death and was translated into English for the first time in 2009. Currently, 10 of his of his 25 published works have an English edition.

Fallada had a tumultuous life and was prone to a variety of ailments, but he loved to read and was born to be a writer. Jenny Williams notes in her biography, “More Lives Than One”(1998) that Fallada's father would read aloud to his children works by Shakespeare and Schiller. Before he was 16 he immersed himself in the works of Flaubert, Dostoevsky, and Dickens.

Shortly after he turned 16 in 1909, he was in a severe road accident. He was run over by a horse drawn cart, then kicked in the face by the horse. A year later he contracted typhoid.

This was a turning point in an otherwise happy childhood. His adolescent years were characterized by increasing isolation and self-doubt compounded by the lingering effects of his ailments. He developed what became a life-long drug problem that started with the pain killers for his injuries after the accident. These issues manifested in multiple suicide attempts. The first attempt was in 1911 when he made a suicide pact with a friend. They decided to mask their suicides believing that a dual would be seen as more honorable. However, it was bungled because of the boy's inexperience with weapons. Fallada killed Hans Dietrich, but was only grazed by Dietrich's bullet. When he saw what happened Fallada was so distraught he picked up the gun and shot himself in the chest, The death of his friend insured his status as an outcast of society. Although he was found innocent of murder by way of insanity, from that point on he served multiple stints in mental institutions.

What is truly remarkable about this larger-than-life character is his resilience. With the ability to overcome obstacles that would confound even the hardiest of men, he was able to produce multiple works of literature that have been compared to Thomas Mann, Remarque, and Tolstoy. He was married twice and had one son.

Fallada remained a popular writer in Germany after his death. Although Little Man What Now had been a great success in the US and the UK, outside of Germany, Fallada faded into obscurity. Melville House re-issued several titles beginning in 2009 including Little Man, What Now?, and for the first time, Every Man Dies Alone. In 2010 Melville House released Wolf Among Wolves, in its first unexpurgated English translation.

Germany: Dresden, Leipzig and Weimar

Cultural Capitals

By Patricia Keegan 

Dresden — The Death of Enlightenment

No place on earth tells the tragic tale of man's inhumanity to man more vividly than the city of Dresden. No place on earth stands as a monument to the glorious affirmation of the human potential for good, than the city of Dresden. In this, the 21st century, with violence still considered an option in international conflict, a visit to witness the restoration of Dresden can only inspire and reinforce the more noble side of our human calling.

The saturation bombing of the historic city of Dresden, dubbed "Thunderclap," occurred on February 13 and 14, 1945, just three months before the end of World War II, and after the meeting of Churchill, Roosevelt and Stalin at Yalta. Ironically, though the allies knew the outcome of the war, the Royal Air Force and American Flying Fortresses dumped some 650,000 bombs on the non-military, cultural center of Dresden. The phosphorus bombs fed a raging firestorm that sucked oxygen from the air causing suffocation among inhabitants. Temperatures rose to 3,000 degrees Fahrenheit, melting steel and cooking concrete and stone to dust. 35,000 city dwellers and an unknown number of refugees fleeing east from the Soviets died, perhaps 100,000 total.

In his book, Dresden 1945 -- The Devil's Tinderbox, Alexander McKee says that in the aftermath of this vengeful bombing there was great controversy on both sides of the Atlantic. It set in motion a number of embarrassing questions on the morality of this form of attack. Winston Churchill, who had wholeheartedly supported the raid, said in a memo to the British Chiefs of Staff, "the destruction of Dresden remains a serious query against the conduct of allied bombing."

The fire burned for days turning the "city of Saxon Kings" to smoldering rubble. Dresden, fondly called the Florence on the Elbe, and a center of cultural wonders, was demolished. The masterful ensemble of baroque architecture, including the famous Zwinger Museum, the Palace, the Opera House and the Frauenkirche were destroyed. The death of Dresden and its cultural treasures was mourned throughout the world.

Ode to Joy

Fifty-six years later, driving through the heart of Dresden on a lovely April evening in search of theKempinski Hotel Taschenbergpalais, (see Hotel Spotlight), nothing had quite prepared me for the sudden impact of this splendid city. I saw narrow streets leading to a large square surrounded by Baroque splendor. Atop the buildings, along the frieze, were towering statues outlined against the evening sky, their hands and faces lifted in a gesture of trust. As we explored further, I glimpsed a golden dome, the gilded Polish Crown of the Zwinger, shining between two buildings. We could see part of the restored Zwinger, which looked as large as the Louvre in Paris. We passed a wire-fenced area where I could see piles of rubble carefully stacked and labeled, large pieces of figures all together, smaller pieces in their own pile.

Slowly, an overwhelming jubilance took hold until I reached a point when I wanted to jump out of the car to celebrate what I was witnessing and all its symbolic meaning. The rising from the ashes, restoration of hope, stones rolled back, fragments made whole again. I felt like Roberto Benigni in Life is Beautiful. I wanted to be him; I could see him. He would run to the center of the square gathering together an orchestra and filling the entire city with the soaring sounds of Ode to Joy in celebration of the indomitable power of good over evil. I could imagine Benigni smiling, laughing, and bowing many times in honor of all who had lost their lives and in honor of their families, friends and survivors, who, against opposing forces, persisted in restoring Dresden to its cultural heritage. Benigni would bow to all of the women who came with broken hearts, day-by-day, sorting countless piles of left by the bombs. He would praise those who tenderly picked up pieces of angel wings and charred, cracked faces of smiling cherubs, harvesting them in piles, believing that one day, each and every one would find its special place again. Before me was tremendous cause for an exuberant, Benigni-style celebration. But I just stayed where I was, in the car, and silently thanked God for the privilege of seeing Dresden.

Exploring Dresden

Ashes no more, Dresden, its famous skyline almost complete, once the center of Splendor and Enlightenment, shone for us under blue skies and warm sunshine the following day. A sprinkling of tourists added an airy liveliness to the city. Leaving the Kempinski, located across the street from the Zwinger, we took a red and white Stadtrundfahrt bus tour of the city.

The bus was equipped with multi-language headphones and offered a brief history of each building and an overview of bygone days when Dresden was surrounded by moats, walls and ramparts. The city owes its cultural stature to Augustus the Strong (1670 -1733) and his son, Augustus III, (1696-1763), both electors of Saxony and Kings of Poland, who transformed a former modest princely residence into a royal city with a lavish court. In this climate the arts flourished, fueled by the ruler's voracious collecting appetite. During the first half of the 18th century, Dresden became a mecca for artists, craftsmen, architects, and theatrical and musical performers. They came from Paris, Venice, Verona, Bologna, Brussels, and Copenhagen, and from nearby Aussig, Erfurt and Weimar. While Augustus the Strong championed all the arts and industries of his native Saxony, his son devoted himself to the fine arts.

We passed areas that looked new as the guide spoke of the "devastating wound to the city" and pointed out one side of the street that had been destroyed while the other side retained lovely old villas. He pointed to Hitler's villa which, ironically, had not been hit, while his sister's house nearby was bombed. We left the bus near the Blaues Wunder Bridge and took the cable car up a steep hill to the lovely Loschwitz area and the house at Schillerstrasse 19, now a small museum, where Frederick von Schiller finished his play Don Carlos. We walked to the nearby Luisenhof Hotel and had coffee on a wide terrace offering a panoramic view of the city. In the stillness, broken only by birdsong, we looked across this beautiful valley, with the wide ribbon of the Elbe, winding and curving its way along grassy banks, eternally bringing continuity and hope to this wounded city.

Returning to the old city center, we added a new dimension to a growing appreciation of Dresden by visiting the sprawling, baroque Zwinger Palace, which houses five museums. A walk through the awe-inspiring Old Master's Gallery, home to one of the most important collections of art history in the world, is packed with Italian Renaissance, Italian Baroque, Flemish and Dutch masters of the 17th century. These paintings, from all over Europe, flowed into Dresden after Augustus the Strong took the throne in 1670, interrupted only in 1756 by The Seven-Year War. The acquisition of the 100 best paintings from the collection of the Duke of Modena in 1745 and Raphael's Sistine Madonna, are spectacular. For us, the most unforgettable was the very old, but still clear, Titian's Tribute Money painted around 1516, in which the artist summarizes the story of Jesus meeting with the Pharisee. The angle of the head and hands of Jesus, and the contrasting auras of the two men, tells the profound story. This outstanding collection will draw the art enthusiast back again and again.

The Zwinger was badly damaged during the war, and although structurally rebuilt, finer details like the replacement of sculptures are still in progress. Here again, visitors take photos of the array of broken, soot-blackened statues -- heads, arms, and torsos of sculpted stone, gathered together and ready to be cleaned and returned to their special niche in baroque architecture. The Zwinger's graceful, courtyard fountain is framed by an open-air gallery with several charming portals, one accessible by an ancient drawbridge.

Next to the Zwinger is the completely restored Semperoper, (Semper Opera House), which, with or without the sound of music, is a joy to behold. The first opera house on the site opened in 1841, but burned down three decades later. Magnificently rebuilt in 1878, it was completely destroyed by the allied bombing of1945. Completely restored by the craftsmen of Dresden, costing millions to rebuild during the communist era, it opened again in 1985. The Dresden opera has a tradition going back 350 years, and many works by Richard Strauss, Carl Maria von Weber and Richard Wagner premiered here.

A visit to the Albertinum is more than a walk through a museum; it is an experience. The Grunes Gewolbe(Green Vault) is what visitors remember the most. The museum is softly lighted; even the walls seem brushed with gold, just enough light to highlight a sprawling collection of precious stones set in dazzling jewelry collections, ceremonial weapons and miniatures of every kind. With diamonds, rubies, sapphires and garnets dating from the 1700's, its treasures include the world's biggest green diamond of 41 carets and a stunning group of 137 gem-studded figures entitled Court of Delhi on the Birthday of the Great Moghul. Amazing in its detail, this magical creation was fashioned by Johann Melchior Dinglinger, court jeweler to Augustus the Strong. The display is a magnet for wide-eyed children and people like me, who stand mesmerized, noses pressed against the glass.

The Albertinium also houses the New Masters Art Gallery, with renowned 19th- and 20th-century paintings of leading French and German Impressionists.

In seeing Dresden's amazing collections of art and treasures, visitors might wonder how all this could have survived the war. In Dresden 1945, author Alexander McKee refers to a GDR guidebook that offered its own explanation. "Red Army soldiers and Soviet art specialists recovered the treasures of the Dresden collections which had been hidden underground by Nazi leaders… Between 1955 and 1958, in a magnificent act of friendship, the Soviet Union returned a total of some 1.5 million treasures, which it had preserved for mankind, to the German Democratic Republic."

McKee writes that this grand gesture was not unconnected with the East German revolt of 1953, and a need to conciliate the population.

The scaffold-wrapped Frauenkirche, (the Church of Our Lady), is, for many, the most poignant symbol of the destruction of Dresden. The city's famous skyline had always been dominated by the cupola, turrets and enormous dome of the Frauenkirche, Germany's most important Protestant church until its destruction in the bombing of 1945. Finished in 1743, the Frauenkirche was an architectural and engineering masterpiece. Its most outstanding feature was its huge, bell-shaped dome of solid stone, a monumental edifice comparable in importance to Michaelangelo's dome for St. Peter's in Rome. The church's organ was built by famed organ builder Gottfried Silbermann and played by Johann Sebastian Bach. Works such as Mahler's "Eighth Symphony" and Wagner's "Love Feast of the Apostles", were written for the Frauenkirche and performed with 1,300 singers and musicians.

It had been built as a Protestant cathedral, even though King Augustus the Strong was a Catholic convert. His support of the Church's construction made the Frauenkirche an important symbol of religious tolerance. However, the bombing raids of February 13-14, 1945, annihilated the civilized world's growing sense of common cultural values for some time. The ruble of the Frauenkirche lay untouched in the middle of the city for over 45 years, a reminder of the destruction of war.

With the unification of Germany came the decision to reconstruct the church. Beginning in 1992, the pieces were removed, matched to a virtual model for placement, sorted, labeled and stacked on long shelves across the street as reconstruction proceeds. The people of Dresden are looking forward to completion of the Frauenkirche scheduled to coincide with the 800-year anniversary of Dresden in 2006. In the morning light of the 21st century, this could be one of the world's great celebrations, but only if we learn something from the destruction of war and begin to conceive of a world without war.

Leipzig: Mecca of Fun — History of Genius

Leipzig has contributed richly to the intellectual and cultural life of Europe over its 800-year history. It was home to Bach, Wagner, Mendelssohn, and to Goethe, who set Faust here while he studied law at Leipzig University. Since the granting of trade fair privilege by Emperor Maximilian I in 1497, Leipzig's importance as a city of trade fairs has grown steadily. During the communist era such trade fairs provided a key East-West interface that became pivotal in undermining the government.

With the discovery of rich silver mines in the nearby Erzgebirge ( Ore Mountains) in the 16th century, Leipzig's continued prosperity was assured. Today, it's an important business, banking and transport center and considered the most dynamic city in eastern Germany.

Arriving without a Leipzig city map, our first challenge was to find our hotel. The outskirts of the city seemed a bit gray and drab, but as we crossed the Ringstrasse encircling the old city center, a beautifully restored jewel came into view. We found the Seaside Park Hotel, a refurbished art deco hotel, located in the historic center close to all the sights. The old city is compact and pro-pedestrian, a great place to explore on foot. The Seaside Park is a model of efficiency, with elegant, comfortable surroundings and a gracious staff helpful with our unfortunate need for umbrellas. We especially enjoyed the sumptuous buffet breakfasts, offering a wide variety of quality fruits and cereals, homemade breads, jams and fresh juices.

Leipzig's liveliness is palpable, with many options open to enjoy an entertaining evening. This is foremost a vibrant university town, the cabaret capital of Germany, home of the "Laughter Fair" and host to Europe's biggest pub festival, "Honky Tonk," offering a musical journey through pubs, clubs and bars hosting 130 bands. This is also a city of music, arts, books, buildings and parks, and its residents can proudly list the many "firsts" of world history that originated in Leipzig.

We chose to have dinner at the Krystallpalast variety theater followed by an opera at the Opernhaus. The dinner theater is spacious with a warm, casually elegant atmosphere. Taking its lead from the city's cabaret history, Krystallpalast walls are lined with photos of the 20's and 30's dominated by Marlena Dietrich, and entertainers bring the tradition to life in programs that change every two months. Strewn on our table between candles and flowers were several empty test tubes. Managing Director Rudiger Pusch, (Rudi), serenely informed us that somebody would pass by to pick up samples of our blood. This was Dracula night, with spiders and witches dangling from the ceiling; we had to be prepared for anything. The only thing we used the tubes for was sipping red schapps after dinner.

Leipzig has an opera tradition dating from 1693, the third oldest in Europe. The Leipzig Opera held a premiere opening of Falstaff. Although the Opera House itself is disappointing, a communist era, functional style building with little flair, the opera was first class with a superb cast of characters.

East Germany's Pastor of Peace

On a quiet Sunday morning we met our guide, Birgit, at the famous Nikolaikirche, (St. Nicholas Church), where she was a godmother at a baptism. The church was filled with families. At the baptismal font three babies wrapped in bundles of lace waited patiently for the big moment, secure in the arms of their sponsors.

The Nikolaikirche has a history that the babies will be proud of someday. Built in 1165, originally designed in the Romanesque style, in the early 16th-century the Nikolaikirche was enlarged and converted to late Gothic, the lovely classical interior of today. Johann Sebastian Bach was responsible for church services and special festivities as the master organist and choir director from 1723 to 1750.

The pastor conducting the baptisms was another famous man who made a huge contribution to the freedom of East Germans -- Reverand C. Fuhrer. Our first glimpse of this activist and peacemaker was to watch him hustling visitors out of the church and closing the doors in preparation for the next service. A busy man, with white hair, he had an eternally pleasant expression of preoccupied surprise. In a flurry of activitity, he hurried away with his briefcase, but over his shoulder he agreed to meet me for a few minutes a bit later.

Twenty minutes later, he reappeared. As we stood in the middle of the square next to the church, I heard his inspiring story of how his years of peaceful activitism culminated in a climatic showdown with the East German government in October, 1989. It began, he says, during the "Peace Decade" of the 1980's, among young people who started coming to Monday Prayer services. After the prayer meeting, discussions began about the arms race and the proposal to install cruise missiles in Europe. This was a burning issue in West Germany at the time, provoking huge demonstrations. In 1981 a group came from West Germany for a 10-day religious service. St. Nicholas was crowded, he remembers. "Many young people came, some with orange hair. They all wanted to pray and talk about peace and human rights. I announced that St. Nicholas' Church would be open to everyone."

In the autumn of 1983, after a celebration in honor of Martin Luther, a gathering of students with candles stayed outside the church all night. Forty students were arrested and imprisoned. They were beginning to stir up the consciousness of East Germans. By 1985 the Stasi (State Security Police) began using psychological pressure by coming into the church. They went to the Bishop to try to stop Pastor Furher who had become a thorn in the side of the secret police. He was having problems at the prayer meetings; young people were getting into heated arguments with each other. Many wanted to leave the country, others wanted to stay and change the system. He said it was not always easy to maintain a clerical atmosphere in these meetings made up of Christians, communists and unbelievers. Realizing people needed to discuss urgent social problems and to ask God for support and guidance, he would listen, provide spiritual guidance and offer topical and prophetic scripture.

The Decade of Peace continued, non-violent demonstrations were modeled after Martin Luther King and Gandhi. They eventually flowed into the streets and arrests climbed. On May 8, 1989, access to the church was blocked by police determined to stop the Monday Prayers. But the meetings, arrests and detentions continued, the Stasi always present in the church. Word of what was happening in Leipzig spread throughout East Germany and more people came to support the demonstrators.

In September, 1989, Western journalists were in town covering a trade fair. They managed to film Stasi police suppressing demonstrators and ripping apart posters of the peace movement. The film was shown on western television while people continued to be arrested.

On October 7, soldiers and industrial militia police made a show of force as they battered defenseless people who responded peacefully. They were taken away in trucks. Hundreds were locked in stables. The government press said it was high time to put an end to what they called "counter-revolution," if necessary, by armed force.

On October 9, six hundred Stasi and party members filled the church. Pastor Fuhrer conducted the Monday Prayer service as though they were not there. He took special delight in knowing that Stasi members were listening to the gospel. Where else would they hear the Beautitudes? The prayers for peace took place in calmness and concentration and the names of people who supported the call for non-violence were read aloud. Kurt Masur, then conductor of the Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra, now of the New York Philharmonic, was among those supporting the call. Pastor Fuhrer says the solidarity between church, art, music and the gospel became important in the threatening situation of the time. The service ended with the Bishop's blessing and an urgent call for non-violence.

"Then," Pastor Fuhrer says, "the miracle occurred." More than 2,000 people leaving the church were welcomed by tens of thousands outside with candles in their hands. Then the troops, military brigades, and police were drawn into the crowd. They became engaged in conversation and then withdrew peacefully. There were no winners, and none was defeated. It was, says Fuhrer, an evening in the spirit of our Lord Jesus. There was a tremendous feeling of relief. The non-violent movement lasted several more weeks, but the party and ideological dictatorship was now destined to collapse.

As a passionate believer in non-violence, Pastor Furher quotes scriptures. "He dethrones the mighty ones and enthrones the weak ones… You will succeed, not by military power or by your own strength, but by my spirit, says the Lord."

"This is what we experienced," says the Pastor. "There were thousands in the churches. Hundreds of thousands in the streets around the city center, but not a single shattered window. This was an incredible experience of the power of non-violence."

A Visit to Faust's Underworld

During my trip through Germany, I again read Goethe's Faust, which I enjoyed even more than the first time. When Birgit, our guide, took us to Auerbach's Keller, it held special significance, knowing that it was Goethe's favorite place to write. In Part I of his story there is a scene in which Mephistopheles and Faust carouse with students at Auerbach's Keller before they ride off on a barrel. The historic section of the restaurant includes the Goethe room and more humorous satirical scenes from Faust. There is a remarkable display of line drawings from many artists over many generations, each with a fascinating, original interpretation of Faust. What is particularly memorable is the restaurant itself. The quality, presentation and flavor made it one of the top meals of our eight-day trip. A fabulous place to visit -- when your appetite is large!

City of Bach

Before leaving Leipzig we visited Thomaskirche (St. Thomas church), built in 1212 and extended and converted to Gothic style in 1496. In front of the altar was a touching sight of fresh flowers on the tomb of Johann Sebastian Bach. This is also the site of the baptisms of Richard Wagner, Karl Liebknecht and all of Bach's large family.

Since 1212 there has also been a St. Thomas Boys Choir. Under the directorship of choirmaster Johann Sebastian Bach for many years, the structure of Germany's most famous boys choir has remained the same for almost 800 years. The choir performs in St. Thomas on Fridays and Saturdays. Bach was not the city council's first choice for the position of St. Thomas Cantor. He only got the job after Georg Phillip Telemann turned it down. From 1723 until his death in 1750, Bach was responsible for church services and festivals at both St. Nicholas and St. Thomas, as well as musical director for the city and head of the collegium musicum,a group of professional and student musicians.

Since the 19th-century, Leipzig has been the center of comprehensive efforts to explore and interpret the works of Bach. A number of institutions were founded around this effort: the 1900 founding of the New Bach Society, the 1950 founding of the Bach archives, and the 1964 start of the biannual International Bach Competitions.

Weimar - Home of the Beaux Spirits of the 18th Century

When I first visited Weimar in 1991, shortly after the Berlin Wall came down, it was like a small weary city, frozen in time, slowly awakening from a bad dream. People were leaning out of their windows watching long lines of cars from the west pouring into their quiet town. Roads were bad, few people spoke English, and we were lucky to find a room for the night. However, its relaxed ambience and reverence for its great cultural legacy dominated small inconveniences. We were rewarded in unexpected ways: every corner we turned we could hear a piano or violin playing classical music, we admired the architecture, the Weimar children, we walked in Goethe's garden, and I fell in love with a bust of poet Friedrich von Schiller, and brought him home.

Today, Weimar is polished, its character is intact, its roads couldn't be better, and its hotels are worth bragging about. The Dorint, a five-star property in Beethoven Platz, is conveniently located within walking distance of all historic sights. The hotel is ultra modern, yet cozy. The buffet breakfasts are a veritable banquet of high quality selections that give you incentive to rise early. Weimar has become a popular destination for cultural travel, and along with some fine hotels, it has outstanding restaurants like the Scharfe Ecke. This is a happy place to spend an evening. The English menu, with dozens of pictured possibilities to choose from assures there can be no mistaken choices. I really enjoy the typical German fare -- sausages, wiener schnitzel, red cabbage, potato soup and home made bread.

Like a gigantic open museum dedicated to art and culture, Weimar immortalizes many of history's beaux spirits, the great intellects and artists who lived there from the 18th to early 19th century. Most notably Goethe, Schiller, Liszt, Nietzshe, Van de Velde, architect of the Bauhaus School of Art and from 1708 to 1717, Johann Sebastian Bach. Art museums, archives and castles are reminders of the spirit of that era as Weimar quietly guides you back through time.

Weimar was first documented in 975, declared a town in 1254, and chartered in 1348. Ruled by the counts of Weimar-Orlamunde from 1247 to 1372, it passed to the Saxon house of Wettin and became the capital of the Duchy of Saxe-Weimar-Eisenach in 1815 (until 1918). On February 6, 1919, after the revolution of 1918-1919, the German National Assembly met in the National Theater and drew up the first Constitution for the new Republic. Weimar was chosen because of the seething unrest in Berlin, and so the republic itself borrowed the city's name. Weimar would be known as the birthplace of the first German democracy.

Like the rest of Germany, the weight of history fell heavily on Weimar as it suffered through wars, revolutions, defeat, terror and dictators. But it has also been bountifully blessed. Until 1748, Saxe-Weimar had been ruled by Ernest Augustus, a petty prince, who believed his money and that of his subjects would be well spent by building monumental and lavish edifices and by acquiring paintings and art objects, many of which were housed in Weimar's museums and castles.

Today, as we walk through the streets on a guided tour with Sigrid, our guide, she tells us how important his daughter-in-law, Anna Amalia, was to Weimar's becoming the center of German intellectualism. After the death of her husband in 1758, Anna Amalia, a refined woman with an interest in the arts, assumed the throne. In 1772, the widow, fascinated by the French Enlightenment, invited the poet and publicist, Christopher Martin Wieland, to tutor her son Charles Augustus. Wieland was the first of the 'Big Four' to come to live in Weimar.

Standing in front of the home of Anna Amalia, our guide tells us to imagine that day, in 1775, as a carriage pulls up in front of this very house and in the carriage sits the young poet, Johann Wolfgang Goethe. Anna Amalia grew to love Goethe and encouraged round table intellectual discussions that became famous among writers and artists throughout Germany. Later, young Charles Augustus gave Goethe his small summerhouse in the park as a gift, hoping to entice the great poet to stay in Weimar. Goethe was to remain in Weimar until his death in1832.

Friedrich von Schiller, the Apollo of German Classicism, subsequently came to Weimar to be near Goethe, the Zeus. Schiller, author of the Robbers Wallenstein and Wihelm Tell, was renowned for his mature treatments of the themes of idealism, freedom and heroic achievement. The same idealism can be found in Schiller's Ode to Joy, which Beethoven set to music in the last movement of the 9th symphony.

Just one year after Goethe's arrival in Weimar, Charles Augustus, at Goethe's request, summoned Johann Gottfried Herder to the city. Herder, a philosopher with social and humanistic ideals, completed the quartet of titans. They met regularly to exchange their thoughts on literature, science, and the arts. Through the work of these great artists, Weimar became known as the center of German classicism

Goethe & Schiller

Exploring Weimar

The central square in Weimar has park benches where you can sit, relax and enjoy a delicious charbroiled sausage from a street vendor. Opposite the park is the Goethe House, and on the same street, further down, is the house where Schiller lived. Around the corner on quiet, cobbled street is the Franz Liszt College of Music. Passing this school provides a living testimony to the town's vibrant cultural richness; a beautiful aria floats from an open window. People linger awhile to listen.

Behind Goethe's House is a wonderful flower garden perfect for meditation. After touring the house and seeing were Goethe ate, slept and wrote, it is easy imagine the inspiration he derived from this lovely, enclosed garden. Although Goethe's house in the park is smaller, it is there that he worked on some of his universally acknowledged greatest works of world literature.

The Goethe and Schiller Archive is the oldest and largest literary archive in the world, preserving more than 100 handwritten estates of writers, philosophers, musicians and artists from the middle of the 18th to the beginning of the 20th century. Among the treasures are the first drafts of Goethe's Iphigenie, the second part of Faust, a complete manuscript of Schiller's Don Carlos and the diaries of Friedrich Hebbel. Although everything is in German, it is possible to get an English guide to make everything come alive. It is well worth a visit, but hours are limited.

Lovers of Lucas Cranach, the most famous painter of the German Renaissance will find moments of great pleasure when visiting the ground floor of the Belvedere Castle. I was struck again by the beauty and freshness of three paintings by Cranach, one was Christ on the Cross, another shows Christ holding the hand of Mary Magdalene, and the third a portrait of Martin Luther. Lucas died in Weimar in 1553. Martin Luther, whose doctrines would later revolutionize the church, preached here in 1518. Luther's footsteps are large all through the three major areas of Germany in which we traveled.

I will always remember Weimar as a place of inspiration and my first introduction to the depth of Germany's rich culture. Like Dresden and Leipzig, but on a much smaller scale, its music, art, architecture and literary accomplishments are living testimony to the magnitude, and boundless reaches, of human aspiration.

For more information on travel to Germany call 212-661-7200 or visit the website www.german-tourism .deor, vacations in germany

Toward a New Female Future

Gender Awareness Supports Taiwan's Competitiveness

By Pat Gao, Taiwan Review Staff Writer

Since the emergence of the movement toward a more liberal society at around the time when decades of martial law ended in Taiwan in 1987, the pursuit of women’s rights and gender equality has been an integral part of broader social movements. Now, with significant progress in lawmaking efforts and major amendments to the Civil Code and Criminal Code on women’s issues, Taiwan has one of the world’s more advanced legal frameworks for the protection and fair treatment of women. “In terms of a legal foundation, Taiwan ranks number one in Asia,” says Ho Bih-jen, secretary-general of the National Alliance of Taiwan Women’s Associations (NATWA), which works on coordinating information and resources among more than 70 groups devoted to gender issues. NATWA was established in 2001, the same year that revisions to the Criminal Code made rape cases subject to public prosecution instead of being handled only upon complaint by the victim.

In addition to lawmaking and enforcement efforts, public education is of the utmost importance, says World Young Women’s Christian Association (YWCA) president Susan Brennan. “It helps shift the way people see issues,” Brennan said during a visit to Taipei on April 24 to attend a 2010 World YWCA Day event. Changing people’s attitudes through mass media campaigns, individual communication, or through schools and other means “can work to share the message that, for the wellbeing of the country as a whole, women’s equality and safety have to be secured,” she says. Brennan had previously visited Taiwan in 1997 to lead workshops focused on the elimination of violence against women as part of a World YWCA Asia Pacific regional meeting.

Reform has not always come about as a straightforward result of women’s activism, however. As Lee Ping—secretary-general of the YWCA of Taiwan and a member of the Committee of Women’s Rights Promotion under the Executive Yuan—pointed out in a speech to government staff on gender mainstreaming, several major laws concerning gender equality have been catalyzed by high-profile events.

Call to Action

Domestic violence, for example, was largely viewed as a private matter and legal penalties for such assaults did not receive much attention until 1993, when a long-abused wife murdered her husband. The case spurred calls for greater protection for women, with the Domestic Violence Prevention Act finally coming into effect in 1998. The woman’s defense lawyer, Wang Ju-hsuan, successfully helped reduce the defendant’s imprisonment term and now serves as the minister of the Council of Labor Affairs (CLA).

Another example occurred in 1987, when scores of female employees were forced from their jobs at the National Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall in Taipei and the Kaohsiung City Cultural Center because they were more than 30 years old, got married or became pregnant. Growing social resistance to such restrictive regulations for women eventually led to the promulgation of the Gender Equality in Employment Act in 2002. Two years later, the Gender Equity Education Act came into effect. This piece of legislation, which was intended to develop gender awareness on school campuses, had sad origins in the death of a male student at a junior high school in southern Taiwan’s Pingtung County. Before receiving a fatal head injury sustained in a school toilet in April 2000, the unfortunate boy had frequently been laughed at and teased for being effeminate. The resulting lawsuit, assisted by gender activists and legal experts, found the school principal and two other school administrative staff members guilty of manslaughter for their failure to shape a gender-friendly environment.

Legal protections not only discourage harm from being committed against women in one way or another, but also play a more active role in promoting women’s rights. “A legal basis means a lot as a symbol. The passage of laws concerning domestic violence, for example, signaled a new intervention by the government sector into private family matters,” says Huang Ling-hsiang, vice director of the Foundation for Women’s Rights Promotion and Development. The foundation was set up in 1999 as a nonprofit group funded by the Ministry of the Interior (MOI) and is the operator of the Taiwan Women’s Center in Taipei. Since it began operating in March 2008, the center has worked as the “brain”—as Huang calls it—that conveys and directs financial resources and information to around 130 women’s service centers throughout Taiwan.

Legislation cannot solve all of Taiwan’s gender issues, though. In addition to certain inadequacies in punitive provisions, there are often budgetary and staff shortages for the support networks that are necessary for the laws to be carried out effectively. For one thing, central and local governments have to address the problems of frequently understaffed social welfare departments in dealing with cases of domestic violence.

At the same time, there has been some progress in making gender-related laws more practical and realistic, such as by offering incentives to encourage women to exercise their rights fully. For example, the Gender Equality in Employment Act gives employees the right to a combined eight weeks of paid maternity leave before and after childbirth, as well as up to two years of unpaid parental leave for those who have remained in service for more than one year and have children under the age of three.

Time to Take Leave 

Yet, despite the availability of parental leave, few employees took it until May last year, when a revision to the Employment Insurance Act added a childcare leave allowance of 60 percent of the insured’s salary for up to six months per child. According to figures from the CLA, the total number of applicants for childcare leave in 2008 was just 5,508, while the number jumped to 17,723 in 2009 after the allowance came into effect. In 2009, a total of NT$1.9 billion (US$57.5 million) was spent by the government on parental leave subsidies, with each applicant receiving an average of NT$16,000 (US$485) per month, according to the bureau.

Given that both a mother and father are eligible for up to six months of subsidized parental leave, the plan provides for a total of one year of care for each child. Mothers accounted for 84 percent of parental-leave applicants in 2009; however, the figure was lower than the average of around 95 percent in the previous seven years. “The childcare support system offers greater possibilities for working women to shake off regrets [about taking parental leave],” Huang Ling-hsiang says.

The figures also reflect the long established practice for females to be the first ones to get involved when family matters arise. The reason they do so might be a voluntary choice due to a preference for “maternal values,” which is in no way inferior to the inclination of many men to prioritize their careers, Huang says. On the other hand, Huang says that if women do exhibit less motivation for career advancement, the origins could stem from traditional conceptions of gender roles that lead to greater difficulties for women to get the training and experience necessary to improve their career prospects. “The problems arise less from women themselves than social structures. The point is that women must be given equal opportunities,” she says.

In fact, more often than not, caring for children and the elderly, as well as looking after household affairs, is work done by females. Ho Bih-jen says that women’s movements initially aimed to minimize women’s role as caregivers, but now the movements are readier to accept that aspect of the female experience, and instead call on the government to provide more support in order to ease the workload. The lack of such support could be behind Taiwan’s low birthrate, she says. “Far from being only a household matter, this has a lot to do with economic development and national competitiveness,” Ho says in reference to figures that show just slightly more than one child born to every woman of childbearing age in Taiwan. “Population problems are central to many major social issues,” she adds.

Ho says that if society does not offer sound, inexpensive nursery services and give women more choices in childrearing, many women will choose not to have children or if they do will have just one child, in which case sons are still customarily preferred in Taiwan. According to statistics from the MOI, in 2009 newborn boys outnumbered girls by the ratio of 108.4 baby boys per 100 baby girls, whereas such ratios usually fall from 103 to 107 in the United States and European countries. Although modern society has largely outgrown the need of traditional agricultural communities for manual labor, sons are still favored because they meet traditional mores better than daughters, such as by carrying on the family name. The NATWA secretary-general says there has been general progress in gender consciousness in Taiwan, but that women still receive more support from their extended family for male children, for example, which affects the gender picture significantly. Ho says she is worried about the possible emergence of “extreme sex ratios”—a trend of fewer baby girls—just like that of extreme weather.

Ho urges the government to strengthen its influence in the early childhood education sector given that Taiwan claims a very high penetration rate of early childhood education and care service providers. In 2009, private businesses accommodated around 60 percent of all attendees at kindergartens (for four- to six-year-old children) and roughly two-thirds of all children at nursery schools (for two- to six-year-old children). According to Ho, this stands in contrast with many of their more affordable counterparts in countries in the West that are operated as public or nonprofit organizations.

Need for Childcare 

“Our government allocation of educational resources has disproportionately prioritized the latter stage of higher education over the early childhood period,” Ho says. As a result, early childhood education imposes financial pressure on many young or less affluent parents. For Ho, a greater number of public childcare facilities would not only help individual women by reducing their workloads, but could also have the result of freeing up women to put their skills and abilities to use in the workforce and society at large.

Ho’s views on childcare policy are echoed by Wu Chia-li, a chemistry professor at Tamkang University in Taipei County and president of the Taiwanese Feminist Scholars Association, a group of mostly female university teachers formed in 1993. Wu notes that the government has allocated huge budgets for improving the world ranking of local universities, but suggests that an alternative might be to encourage more talented female teachers to stay at and contribute to their schools. This would require providing more choices and flexibility when it comes to personal and family leave, she says. In fact, Wu points out that there is considerable room for the development of women’s social roles across the board. In Taiwan, the female labor participation rate increased by 3.6 percent to 49.6 percent from 1999 to 2009, but still lagged behind that for men by 16.8 percent last year. Moreover, the female workforce tends to be undervalued in the labor market. “Females account for no less than half of the students at business colleges, but less than 15 percent of higher-level managerial staff in enterprises,” Wu says, “and the average female salary is just three-fourths of male earnings.” She also cites the imbalanced sex ratios of teachers in higher education. According to 2008 statistics from the Ministry of Education (MOE), the percentage of full-time female teachers at elementary schools was 68.5 percent, but dropped to 60 percent at senior high schools and fell further to 34.3 percent at the university level. “The percentages of female principals are comparatively low, too,” Wu says. For example, despite female teachers representing 60 percent of all teachers at senior high schools, women headed only 19.3 percent of those schools in 2008.,/p>

Greater educational attainment also sees student sex ratios tilt in favor of males. Student numbers are more or less evenly divided between the two sexes on entry to university, but males outnumber females in master’s programs and even more so in doctoral programs. Nevertheless, the sex imbalance has been decreasing in recent years. MOE figures for 1998 show that for every 100 female students there were 209.9 males in master’s programs and 394.5 males for doctoral programs. In 2008, those figures had changed to 140 males in master’s programs and 259.1 at the doctoral level per 100 females. Wu says that many female students withdraw from higher learning not because of their ability, but because they are discouraged by the expectations of parents or teachers. “In contrast, backed up by traditional gender conceptions, boys stick it out and show less hesitation about their academic or career choices,” she says. Wu also serves as the leader of a mentoring program funded by the government’s National Science Council for would-be and beginning female scientists and technologists.

Wu says a general rule for a country is that the greater the gender balance, the more economically competitive it will be. Prominent examples are northern European countries such as Sweden. “A female perspective is not just about the struggle for more rights,” she says, “but more significantly it’s also about breaking free from existing gender myths and taking a brand new look at established social systems.” From this angle, the pursuit of gender equality is little less than a systematic revolution that could help to release the power and ability of women everywhere to build a more creative future, not just for Taiwan, but for all of humanity.

All photos by Huang Chung-hsin.

This article was published in Taiwan Review on June 1, 2010. For Taiwan news, editorials, feature articles and more, please go to Taiwan Review.

Iceland: A Resilient People

Interview with Ambassador Hjalmar W. Hannesson

By Alan Dessoff

Most people, certainly in much of Europe and North America, are familiar with Iceland these days largely as the location of the volcano Eyjafjallajokull, which caused widespread havoc for international travel when its eruption in April spewed an ash cloud that forced airlines to cancel flights and strand travelers around the world.

But as Hjalmar W. Hannesson, Iceland’s Ambassador to the US, points out from a historical perspective, another volcano, Katla, also bears watching. Each of the three times in recorded history that Eyjafjallajokull has erupted, the larger Katla has done the same. Katla is a more active volcano and “sometimes has a big eruption, sometimes small. But nothing indicates this will happen now,” says Hannesson, adding that “everything is under control and we are prepared for eventualities, so no one is in danger. This is what you have to do when you live very close to nature, and live off nature, as we do.”

Straddling a seam in the earth’s crust, Iceland is always vulnerable and the latest eruption is “just an indication that Iceland is still in the process of being made,” Hannesson says. But Icelanders are “resilient people who have learned to live in harmony with the forces of nature,” he declares.

They have been living that way since 874, the start of the island nation’s recorded history, when it became the last European country to be settled, mostly by “chieftains who fled from Norway because the King of Norway was consolidating his powers,” and rather than become subservient to the King, they decided to leave for Iceland, Hannesson explains. They also came from elsewhere in Scandinavia and from Viking settlements in the British isles, bringing a Celtic element with them.

Irish monks had come to Iceland even before 874, seeking solitude and contemplation, but they fled or were killed when the Vikings arrived. In another link with Ireland, “the Vikings took beautiful women with them to Iceland,” and now, through modern comparative DNA studies of Norwegians and Icelanders, it is calculated that a third of the original mothers in Iceland were Irish, Hannesson says. By 930 most of Iceland’s population of 70,000 had arrived in their new country this way, but the culture was only built on the Viking heritage, he says. Now the population is about 317,000, with about two-thirds in or around the capital of Reykjavik, far from volcanoes.

One thing the original Viking settlers found, Hannesson relates, was that “it was not very practical to have no government.” So they started a parliament, but no executive branch, leaving it up to individual chieftains around Iceland to implement the laws the parliament adopted. “That was a big weakness of the system,” Hannesson says, but the parliament — the Althing — survived, and today is the world’s longest continuously serving legislative body. Iceland is a republic with a written constitution and a parliamentary government where the power rests with a Cabinet that sits at the majority will of the Althing, which in turn is elected in a proportional electoral system. There usually are at least four or five national political parties. A ceremonial President is elected as head of state by direct popular vote for an unlimited number of four-year terms. A Supreme Court and district courts exercise judicial power.

Not much was known about Iceland generally in the Anglo-Saxon world for many centuries, until the masterful Icelandic medieval Sagas and the Eddas were translated — the word “saga,” commonly used in English today, was originally an Icelandic word — and told of the country’s early history, its heroes, and their Viking explorations to Greenland, Vinland (North America), Russia and elsewhere. The Eddas depict the ancient world of the Vikings, their gods and philosophy. Another word in English from Icelandic is “geyser,” from the (great) Geysir that spews hot water high into the air.

The Icelandic language today has changed very little from the old Viking language that was spoken in all Scandinavian countries and parts of England, Normandy and elsewhere until about 1000, Hannesson says. “It is a difficult, old-fashioned language,” he acknowledges. All Icelanders speak a second and a third language, most commonly “Scandinavian,” a mix of Danish/Norwegian/Swedish, as well as English, which children learn in schools from the age of ten, with reinforcements from computers, movies and television. But “we do not open our language to foreign words,” Hannesson says. “Our mission in life as a small nation is to preserve our culture, and the language is at the core of any culture.”

While Icelanders are proudly committed to that, they also have had to adjust to modern circumstances, most notably a recent economic crisis similar to what happened in the United States during the same period.

It’s “a very complex issue” that began when Iceland’s three major banks were privatized, Hannesson says, then expanded at “an extremely fast pace” while regulatory authorities could not keep up. By 2008, he says, the three large banks, constituting about 85 percent of Iceland’s banking sector, had grown to 10-12 times the country’s gross domestic product. A year earlier, according to United Nations statistics, Iceland topped all other countries as “the best place to live for quality of life,” based on indicators like healthcare and income. “Everything was going extremely well,” Hannesson says.

But it turned out, he recounts, that “the financial tycoons and banking directors were prone to extreme risk-taking,” and when Lehman Brothers collapsed in the US in 2008 and the international liquidity crisis ensued, the banks in Iceland quickly experienced major liquidity problems and “everything came down, very quickly.

The government took over the three banks and new “good” banks were established. Since then, two of them have been taken over and are operated by their creditors, mostly foreign. The stock in the three old banks became worthless at the time of the banking crash and “a lot of people are angry after what had to be done in order to keep the economy going,” Hanesson says.

A government-established commission —some Icelanders call it a “truth commission,” like the Truth and Reconciliation Commission formed in South Africa after the abolition of apartheid — produced a 2300-page report that reviewed every detail of the economic crisis, blaming bankers, a regulatory system that did not keep pace, and some government officials and ministers for their inaction. Bankers were recently put into solitary confinement in jail for questioning because there is suspicion that some of them and some big investors transferred wealth to tax havens, Hannesson says. “Many hope that they will not be able to enjoy it because they almost ruined the country. People feel that this money should be brought back to Iceland to help rebuild the economy,” he says.

Meanwhile, with support from the International Monetary Fund, “things are looking up,” Hannesson says, although Iceland still has 9 percent unemployment (up from almost 0 in 2007) and a “too high” 8.5 percent inflation rate. But “our exports are really moving,” because Iceland’s currency, the krona, at about 62 per dollar in October 2008, is now about 126 per dollar, “which means everything is half-priced, compared to what it used to be, for foreigners with their currency,” Hannesson explains. But at the same time, “because of the devaluation of the krona to this extent,” foreign products are expensive to buy and imports have declined drastically, he adds.

Iceland has applied for membership in the European Union and “a lot of people say that if we had been a member, and had been in the Euro zone without our independent currency, we would have had more stability. The krona was the smallest independent and free floating currency and therefore was vulnerable,” Hannesson says. Still, he continues, the IMF and the international marketplace believe Iceland has a strong long-term economic foundation. Icelanders are a young nation and their work force is highly educated, trained, and very flexible, he says.

“We are a fishing nation second to none and we utilize the resources of the sea in a sustainable manner. We have some of the most fertile fishing grounds of any country in the world” and Icelandic fishermen — about 4,000 of them out of the population of 317,000 — are “by far the most productive” in the world, Hannesson exclaims. Iceland exports much of its fish catch, especially to Europe but also to the US, Japan and elsewhere.

Iceland has many rivers running from mountain glaciers in the highlands down to the ocean and has harnessed them for hydroelectric production. In addition, it has tapped the extensive geothermal hot water in the ground and uses it to heat every house in the country as well as producing electricity. Overall, says Hannesson, Iceland uniquely meets 80 percent of its energy needs with “clean, sustainable, never-ending” energy.

Because of its energy resources, international companies have set up aluminum smelters in Iceland that use hydro- and geothermal-electric power and produce little pollution. Other companies needing high energy have established subsidiaries in Iceland, the latest being “data farms” that “need a cool place” to operate, Hannesson says.

Because of its climate, Iceland’s agricultural production is limited and expensive, although the Whole Foods Market chain buys Icelandic products including butter, meat (lamb), cheeses, water, chocolate and skyr — “a healthy type of yogurt,” Hannesson says. Iceland’s agricultural products satisfy buyers “who are looking for organic products and are willing to pay for quality,” Hannesson says. Also in the agricultural sector, the many greenhouses are heated geothermally to grow bananas, tomatoes and other products. “There are great possibilities within certain agricultural sectors,” Hanesson says. Mink farming also produces mink skins that are exported to Nordic countries, he adds.

Summers are short in Iceland but days are long — 24 hours of sunlight for several weeks — “so we have people playing golf at midnight,” Hannesson says. In addition, he points out that on a per capita basis, Iceland has the most swimming pools in the world, almost all year-round, outdoor pools heated by water from the ground. More than a half million tourists visited Iceland last year, he reports.

Iceland’s young people are another asset. Many go abroad to study, and he was one of them, earning BA and MA degrees in political science in the US, at the University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill. Each of his three children also has at least one degree from an American university. “I have a lot to be thankful for. The open doors of America’s universities are one of the great strengths of this country,” Hannesson says.

But even if Icelanders might stay abroad for a few years, most return to their homeland. “There is a strong bond when you are from an island,” Hannesson says.

At 64, with 34 years of diplomatic experience, Hannesson says his function in Washington is largely to keep his and the U.S. governments informed about what each is doing and the possibilities for further cooperation in all mutually beneficial areas, including trade, geothermal energy, and culture. The US is “our biggest and most important ally for security and defense,” he says. As the smallest member of NATO, and with no military, Iceland contributes civilian support in positions like flight controllers, police and medical personnel in Afghanistan and other places where NATO and other international organizations are involved, Hannesson says.

There have been no incidents of terrorism in Iceland but “we all have to worry about that. We are in this together and no country is an island in this sense, even an island country,” Hanneson says. Accordingly, Iceland has imposed strict security on flight arrivals from other countries — “the same security as throughout Europe and the US,” he says.

There is nothing Iceland can do about its erupting volcanoes but with its assets, including fishing grounds, energy resources, an educated population and a flexible workforce, the country is recovering from its economic breakdown and “in the not too distant future, we will be firmly back on our feet,” Hannesson says, citing forecasts of economic growth starting late this year and through next year.

He points to a bright side to the recent volcanic eruption as well. Although it initially had some effect on tourism as some people canceled their bookings, now “many more adventurous people are coming to see the greatest show on earth” and for geologists and natural scientists as well as nature lovers, Iceland is a “dreamlike laboratory,” Hannesson says. “We think that in the long run, the Eyjafjallajokull PR will only be beneficial” to Iceland, he declares.

Whether they have to deal with their economy or the forces of nature, Icelanders are prepared. “We have endured many worse things throughout our history,” says Hannesson. The most famous volcano in the country, he says, is Mt. Hekla. The fallout in 1875 from Askja, another volcano in the northeastern highlands of the country, caused many Icelanders, especially on the east coast, to move to North America.

Hannesson cites another volcano that had been dormant for thousands of years until it suddenly erupted in 1973 in the Westman islands off Iceland’s southern coast, causing the evacuation of 5,000 people to the mainland and destruction of about 30 percent of their town. “But they all came back as soon as the eruption was finished and rebuilt their town and their lives. You should just see the town now,” he says. The lava made the harbor better sheltered and the Westman islanders are using the heat from the volcano to heat their houses, he adds. “The resilience of Icelanders is not to be underestimated,” Hannesson concludes.

Hungary: Budapest- A capital city for all the senses

By Dominique Wellington 

A city that graces both sides of a legendary river, crossed by a succession of regal bridges. At night, the lights on the monuments and bridges gleam in the dark like jewels. Grand, tree-lined boulevards and neoclassical buildings from the 19th century. Neighborhoods with winding, narrow, cobblestone streets from medieval times. Antique-filled flea markets, fascinating book stores, inviting cafés with strong coffee and sweet confections, museums and concerts to delight the eye and ear. Paris? No, Budapest.

A name that conjures up an image more exotic and mysterious than any other Western capital. A stop along the fabled Orient Express. Inaccessible behind the Iron Curtain for nearly half a century. A city destroyed many times by invasions and wars - most devastatingly and recently during World War II. And lovingly rebuilt every time by a proud and creative people, who give the place its tremendous warmth and singular charm.

Distinctive Flavor

Budapest offers the sophisticated traveler the familiarity of European culture with a tantalizingly distinctive Hungarian flavor. You see it in the domed baths, originally built by Turks during 150 years of occupation, and in the Eclectic style of turn-of-the-century architecture throughout the city. You taste it in the complex cuisine influenced by the Magyar founders from Central Asia, Turks, Serbs, Austrians and French (see Year of Wine and Gastronomy, p. 12). You hear it in the folk music and unpronounceable language, unlike any other. (In Budapest, though, you will find many who speak English, particularly among the young.)  And you especially feel it in the verve, the humor and the sparkle of the people.

When you visit Hungary, you not only see monuments and reminders of the past, you are actually witnessing history in the making. As it seeks to weave a new richer tapestry of Hungarian culture, the nation is reviving the traditions of the pre-Communist era - some as fundamental as religious instruction, others as frivolous as the glittering New Year's ball. It's exciting to watch a country creating a new future and asserting a new self. 

Hungary - unlike many former Communist bloc nations - did not destroy its Soviet monuments. The Liberation statue on the Citadel - commemorating the defeat of the Nazis - remains where the Communists erected it. Other colossal statues in Socialist Realist style were moved to a fascinating open-air Statue Park Museum (just a cab ride outside Budapest), dedicated exclusively to these relics of Soviet domination. When you return, stop and have a drink and a chuckle at a café that spoofs Communism, called Marxim (a cross between Marxism and Maxim) in Buda, near Moszkva tér whose name also recalls the recent past.

The city known as Budapest is actually three cities: Óbuda, the oldest section, with Celtic and Roman ruins, on the Buda side of the Danube; Buda among the gently rolling hills on the western bank, famous for its historic Castle Hill and beautiful residential area; and bustling Pest with its shopping, government and commercial districts on the flat plain of the east bank.

A City for Walking 

United in 1873, Budapest is ideal for walking. And exploring the city on foot is the best way to burn off all the calories from the delicious food and wine you'll be enjoying. Afterwards, there is no more rejuvenating way to relax than in one of the city's many soothing spas - fed by 80 thermal springs.

Start by strolling along the winding streets on Castle Hill, where the medieval character of Buda has been best preserved. The entire panorama of the two banks of the Danube all the way from Margaret Island - Budapest's green Central Park in the middle of the river - to Gellért Hill and the Castle District has been designated a World Heritage preservation site by UNESCO.

At the top of Castle Hill visit the Royal Palace, which houses the Budapest Historical Museum, Hungarian National Gallery and National Library. The 700-year old Matthias Church with its Gothic spire and multi-colored tiled roof is where the nation's kings were crowned and now the site of organ and choir performances. Be sure to catch sunset at Fisherman's Bastion, with its view of the river, Chain Bridge, Parliament building and Pest spreading out across the horizon.

For a view that takes in sights on both sides of the river, go up Gellért Hill to the Citadel. The hill is home to three famous and historic spas: the Art Nouveau-era Gellért and the 400 year-old Rudas and Rác Baths, the latter two built by the Turks. 

City of Caves

It is a cave on the southeastern side of Gellért Hill which gave the city half of its name. Seeing the hollow in the hill, and the other caves that underlie the Buda Hills, the Magyar conquerors from Asia - with no word of their own for cave - borrowed the Slavic word, 'pest,' from tribes living in the area. They named what is now Gellért Hill 'Pest Hill' - or hill of caves. In 1926 a lovely chapel, known as Rock Chapel, was built inside the hollow of Gellért Hill and can be visited today. The miles of caves under the city are the inactive vents of hot springs, the source of thermal water for all the city's spas. Sections of the labyrinthine cave system may be toured, for example Castle Cave at the corner of Országház and Dárda streets. Many caves have served as wine cellars and air raid shelters.

Antiquity

If you're looking for antiquity, Óbuda (Old Buda) is the place to see excavated ruins of the Roman city of Aquincum. An amphitheater once holding 16,000 seats, discovered under the houses in Királydomb, is considered one of Europe's largest open-air arenas. Relics from the Romans' occupation are on display in the Aquincum Museum.

If you cross the Danube from Buda to Pest on the Margaret Bridge you enter the enchanted oasis of Margaret Island, Budapest's largest park, where no cars are allowed except an occasional taxi. Explore on foot, by rented bicycle or minibus the gardens, medieval church and chapel, game reserve, swimming pools, spa-hotels, tennis stadium and 10,000 trees that make the island in the middle of the river seem miles away from the bustle of a modern city. Originally housing a convent (still being excavated), Margaret Island was turned into a harem by the Turks!

Turn-of-the-Century Pest

Stepping back into the urban action on the Pest side, you can stroll along Andrássy Boulevard, very much like the Champs-Elysées, and admire the mix of neoclassic, Romantic, Art Nouveau and uniquely Hungarian Eclectic style of architecture in the buildings - mostly from the turn of the century.

Outstanding examples include the Opera House, Hungarian Academy of Sciences, Post Office Savings Bank, Museum of Applied Arts, St. Stephen's Basilica and, of course, Parliament, which you have seen at sunset from the Buda side across the river. At the end of Andrássy you will find the magnificent Heroes' Square with statues of Hungary's greatest leaders from the founding of the state to the 19th century.

At the National Museum, you will learn about the saga of Hungarian history and see the legendary crown jewels of King Stephen. Although they post-date the sainted Stephen by several centuries, the crown jewels nevertheless have a spectacular history, having been lost, stolen or misappropriated at various times since the Middle Ages. 

After World War II, fleeing Hungarians brought them to the United States for safekeeping. Jimmy Carter returned them to Hungary in 1978.

Worth seeing for both the building itself as well as the exhibits inside is the Museum of Applied Arts, a fantastic combination of traditional folk elements with Art Nouveau, Islamic, Hindu and Persian motifs. The roof is covered with ceramics from the famous Zsolnay factory in Pécs. The spacious white Victorian interior with glass dome overhead seems a complete contrast to the multicolored Oriental exterior. Exhibits include furniture, textiles, metalwork, ceramics, porcelain and glass.

The superb Museum of Ethnography originally served a different purpose. Its designer was the first runner-up in the turn-of-the-century competition for the Parliament building, and it housed the Supreme Court and Chief Prosecutor's Office. Go inside just to admire the frescos on the ceiling and the splendid staircase. 

To make it easy for visitors to see museums and all the city's sights, the 3-day Budapest Card allows the purchaser to travel free on all public transportation, visit most of the city's top museums and provides discounts on guided tours, at selected restaurants and shops. You can buy the Budapest Card in the US or upon your arrival in Hungary at the airport, at hotels, museums, travel agencies and metro stations.

Budapest had the first subway on the European Continent.  That first line is still in operation, along with the modern lines built after World War II.

One area that must be explored on foot is Erzsébet Town, the charming old Jewish quarter. The Byzantine-looking Dohány Street Synagogue was recently restored to its original grandeur. With 3,000 seats, it is Europe's largest synagogue and the world's second largest after New York's Temple Emanu-El.

In the courtyard is the moving Holocaust Memorial in the form of a weeping willow, its metal leaves engraved with the names of victims. Theodor Herzl, founder of modern Zionism, was born nearby. Wander through the courtyards connecting residential buildings, forming a protective cocoon for the quarter. Then stop for pastry or lunch at one of several kosher restaurants and cafés.

Shopping

Give in to the temptation of shopping for antiques, Herend or Zsolnay porcelain, intricate needlework with folk art motifs, fine Hungarian wines and liqueurs, as well as goose liver pate and a variety of paprikas. The most elegant  and popular shopping areas are Váci Street, Petõfi Sándor Street and Vörösmarty Square. For the largest selection of merchandise, check out the many shops along Károly Ring and Kossuth Lajos Street. 

If you want an insider's tip, go south on Váci past Elizabeth Bridge. There you'll find excellent shops and galleries for browsing Éand fewer tourists. At the end of the lower section of Váci, recently converted to pedestrian-only traffic, stop in the splendid and colorful Central Market Hall overflowing with food and folk art stalls. A true sensory experience. On Saturdays, tour buses leave from the Central Market for the Ecseri Flea Market - a shopping and bargaining paradise.

Going Out

Some of Budapest's best restaurants on both sides of the river offer music as well as fine food. Be serenaded while you dine at appropriately named Bel Canto near the Opera House, or by Gypsy violins in Kárpátia Restaurant. Try the Fél 10 jazz club or Café Pardon, where you can hear live music every night. 

Other outstanding restaurants to sample: Légrádi Antiques, above a charming antique shop; Mûvész Restaurant with piano music and dark royal blue walls; Múzeum Restaurant with Art Nouveau tilework and stained glass; Fortuna Restaurant on Castle Hill; legendary Gundel Restaurant in City Park, which has hosted Habsburg weddings, or its less formal sister restaurant next door, Bagolyvár (Owl's Castle), staffed entirely by women and serving home-style Hungarian cuisine. 

You'll also notice a multitude of boats docked on the Pest side of the city. You can take a daytime or evening sightseeing cruise - and drink in the view with a cocktail in hand. Some cruises also include a dinner and dance music.

All year round, there are concerts, opera, operetta, ballet, modern dance and folk dance performances throughout the city. Listen to the works of Hungary's native sons - Ferenc Liszt, Zoltán Kodály, Béla Bartók, Ferenc Lehár - in the land and city that inspired them. And don't be surprised if Budapest, the Pearl of the Danube, inspires you, too.

Taiwan Strives Toward Full Engagement

In the Global Health Network

By Johnny Chiang, Minister, Government Information Office

Among the most significant fruits of the” flexible diplomacy” policy of the Republic of China (Taiwan), implemented after Ma Ying-jeou assumed the ROC presidency in 2008, is the World Health Organization’s (WHO) first-ever invitation to Taiwan to attend the 2009 World Health Assembly (WHA) meeting as an official observer. This year, Taiwan has once again received an invitation to attend the WHA meeting. These developments not only demonstrate that détente between Taiwan and mainland China is conducive to expanding Taiwan’s international space, but signify a watershed in Taiwan’s progress toward rejoining the mainstream of the international community.

For many years, Taiwan’s participation in international affairs has been severely constrained. It is the hope of our people, therefore, as well as of supporters the world over, that Taiwan can be accepted as a full-fledged member of the global community through our involvement in international organizations. Our participation in the WHA may be regarded as a substantive indicator of mutual flexibility in relations between the two sides of the Taiwan Strait and their future prospects. It is hoped that in the future, participation in the WHA will eventually afford us more opportunities for engagement in global affairs.

Taiwan’s presence at the 2009 WHA meeting, as well as our induction into the International Health Regulation (IHR) framework, have enhanced our involvement in the global health network. Communications between Taiwan and the WHO have become smooth, and our health experts have been invited to attend WHO meetings on the A(H1N1) novel influenza pandemic as well as other technical conferences and training programs. In addition, the WHO has assisted us in obtaining the A(H1N1) virus stock necessary to produce flu vaccine in Taiwan.

To date, however, Taiwan is still unable to participate in the full range of WHO activities. Realizing the goal will require further efforts in the realm of cross-strait and foreign relations, this year Taiwan will strive to take part in all levels of WHO meetings and mechanisms in hopes of enhancing the substantive quality of our cooperation in the field of health. Meanwhile, Taiwan’s participation in WHO activities over the past year has enabled the international community to appreciate Taiwan’s high professional standards and capabilities. Moreover, our contributions in the fields of humanitarian relief and promotion of international exchanges over the past several decades have won wide affirmation.

Major issues on this year’s WHA agenda include pandemic influenza preparedness, IHR implementation, food safety, curbing counterfeit medical products and provision of health care services – areas in which Taiwan has considerable experience and can make valuable contributions. Of greater overall significance for Taiwan, its participation in the WHA represents a major step forward into the mainstream of global health cooperation, toward full integration into the world health system.

For Taiwan news, editorials, feature articles and more, please go to Taiwan Today.

Spotlight Back on Haiti

By Bill Miller

Immediately after the horrific 7.0 earthquake that decimated Port-au-Prince, Haiti on January 12, 2010, the world media descended on the poverty-stricken country and provided nearly '24-7' coverage of the disaster that killed over 225,000, maimed thousands, dispossessed over 1.3 million and caused losses of approximately $7 billion, which is 120% of Haiti's 2009 gross domestic product (GDP).

Shortly thereafter, the media and the public lost interest. The coverage disappeared and little was reported about one of the most devastating natural disasters to afflict the poorest country in the Western Hemisphere. Haiti's 'CNN Moment' was over.

On March 31, the spotlight returned when the United Nations and the US, in conjunction with the Haitian Government, convened a high-level donors' conference --'Towards a New Future in Haiti'-- at the UN Headquarters in New York. The attendees heard from key players, such as UN Secretary General Ban Ki-moon, US Secretary of State Hillary Clinton, Haitian President Rene Preval, and the UN Special Envoy for Haiti, former President Bill Clinton, who urged that countries be generous and commit the financial resources necessary for Haiti's recovery.

The US led the way with a pledge of $1.15 billion, in addition to $900 million previously donated. France, which was the imperial power in Haiti until a slave rebellion in 1804, contributed $188 million and canceled a $75 million debt. China put up a minuscule $1.5 million, along with an earlier $14 million; the 27-nation European Union pledged over $1.6 billion, as well as $370 million previously donated; and the other occupant on the island of Hispaniola and Haiti's neighbor, the Dominican Republic, contributed $50 million. At the end of the day, over 50 countries and international organizations pledged over $10 billion to achieve the goal of not rebuilding but to 'build back better...a new Haiti.'

The bulk of the money will be to fund social sectors, such as water and sanitation, health and education; infrastructure, such as housing, transportation and energy; and production such as agriculture, industry, trade and tourism.

Former US President Clinton and Haiti's Prime Minister, Jean-Max Bellerive, will co-chair the Interim Haiti Recovery Commission to monitor the reconstruction with the aid of countless international technical assistance advisers, many provided by the US government. Their main goals will be to make sure the money is spent properly and the projects are coordinated.

These are intertwined major challenges since the former Haitian governments, especially under the dictator Francois 'Papa Doc' Duvalier and his son, Jean-Claude 'Baby Doc' Duvalier, were notoriously corrupt and inefficient. Untold millions of dollars disappeared into overseas bank accounts and other nefarious destinations.

Closely aligned is the issue of coordination. Haiti developed the moniker of the 'Republic of Non-Governmental Organizations (NGOs).' A large number of donors started giving money to various NGOs to provide medicine, food and other services, rather than working through the Haitian government. It is estimated that close to 10,000 private groups were involved in Haiti, often at cross purposes and with little coordination among their activities, which created considerable inefficiency and waste. Former President Clinton emphasized how it was imperative to have better coordination of the disparate aid efforts underway in Haiti.

What are some of the other challenges to guaranteeing a successful outcome in building a new Haiti?

First, now that the pledges have been made, it is crucial that the donors stand by their commitments. In the past, many have failed to deliver on their promises.

Second, in order for donors to have confidence and to continue their financial and technical assistance, it will be imperative that the process be accountable, transparent and show that the investments been expended efficiently and effectively. No donor wants to put money into projects that are bogus or have marginal value.

Third, the Haitian leadership and community must be brought into the process. Haitians who are living outside of the country can provide doctors, engineers or financial assistance to help with the reconstruction. The Haitian government, as it displays its capacity to operate professionally and honestly, must shoulder more of the responsibility and decision-making. True success will be Haitians rebuilding Haiti, not external players who do not have a direct stake in its future.

Fourth, Port-au-Prince was home to over 3 million people, out of a total population of 9 million. Efforts may be made to develop new population centers that would be smaller and more removed from the immediate earthquake fault line. This may be a challenge if people wish to live in the capital, not to mention that Haiti is a mountainous country with scarce flat land.

Regardless of how the development process occurs, the UN and its battery of agencies, programs and international public administrators will play a central role. Just a few examples include:
--UNICEF ( UN Children's Fund) is developing maternal and child health care programs, as well as focusing on child abuse and illegal trafficking of children;
--The World Food Program had fed over 3.4 million Haitians and 850,000 get daily five-liter rations of water;
--United Nations Peacekeepers, which suffered a drastic loss of their top two leaders on January 12, have been invaluable in providing security in a very chaotic and dangerous situation;
--UNESCO (UN Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) is working to develop the educational system.

Other UN agencies are working to clear irrigation canals, restore phone and postal services, immunize children against childhood diseases, provide tents and temporary shelter and implement a cash-for-work program, just to mention a few.

The UN agencies that were on the ground generally have received high marks, especially at the outset of the crisis, for developing, coordinating and implementing the initial relief efforts under some very dire circumstances. According to a leaked e-mail by John Holmes, head of the UN Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs (OCHA), more should have been done to launch the humanitarian 'cluster strategy.' This strategy coordinates the delivery of basic needs in 12 sectors, for example water and shelter, while coordinating the overlapping services of various aid agencies that have a tendency to duplicate efforts and compete with one another, which reduces efficiency and effectiveness.

Even prior to the earthquake, the situation was bleak with only 50% of the Haitians with access to safe drinking water, 55% of the 9 million population lived on less than $1.00 per day, and 24% of children under five suffered from chronic malnutrition. This could change quite dramatically.

Recently, the US showed even more of a commitment to help Haiti get back on its feet. First Lady Michelle Obama and Dr. Jill Biden, while en route to Mexico, made a surprise visit to Haiti. They met with President Preval, visited a children's safe space established by First Lady of Haiti Elisabeth Delatour Preval and danced with some of the children.

Additionally, the US Congress passed, and President Obama signed, the Debt Relief for Earthquake Recovery in Haiti Act which seeks to get more grants to Haiti until 2015 so that it will not incur more debt. It also focuses on encouraging international institutions to cancel the debt that Haiti owes them.

If the international community lives up to its promises, and the Haitians, who generally displayed a tremendous decorum and triumph of the human spirit during this disaster, become full-fledged partners in the rebuilding, it may very well be that Haiti will become a beacon of hope and modernity in the 21st century, rather than a poverty-stricken land that offers little hope for a brighter future.

_____________

Bill Miller, former Chair of the UN Association of the USA's Council of Chapter and Division Presidents, is the accredited Washington International journalist covering the UN and is the Producer/Moderator of “Global Connections Television.”

St. Vincent and the Grenadines-- An Inviting Discovery in the Caribbean.

The simple, unspoiled glory of the Grenadines, the lesser-known islands in the southernmost part of the Caribbean chain, is an exhilarating gift proffered to each traveler.

By Dominique Wellington 

The simple, unspoiled glory of the Grenadines, the lesser-known islands in the southernmost part of the Caribbean chain, is an exhilarating gift proffered to each traveler. Untold realms of energy and light emanate from a flood of refreshing beauty found at every turn. Upon embarking into this new world, barricades of city life are quickly shed and the power of sea, sun, sky and endless space begin their magic. St. Vincent and the Grenadines may be reached only by boat or small plane (Mustique Airways} coming from the larger islands of Barbados or Grenada. This novel means of transportation adds a sense of adventure.

From the mother and capital of the archipelago, the large volcanic island of St. Vincent, to the second largest, Bequia, to the island of the super wealthy, Mustique, to newly awakenedCanouan, all the way to the beautiful, tiny island of Mayreau, each has its own magnetic beauty.

Bequia -- Island Wonderland

The late afternoon ferry winds its way around Devil’s Point on the west side of Bequia, arriving at the island’s primary hub, Port Elizabeth. We feel the clamor of excitement on the shore below, as cargoes of food and people are unloaded. Pausing at the top of the narrow steps, I examine the face of the island pointed toward the sea. From the top of the rolling, green volcanic hills sloping from azure skies to translucent seas, houses are scattered gracefully. Rimming the edges of the island, barely visible through the palm trees, are small shops, boutique hotels and restaurants. The overall picture is not of a sleepy island lost in its drems, but one of animated tranquility.

Clambering down the steps, we met Alvin, a taxi driver who became our on-call guide. Taxis are small, sturdy trucks able to negotiate hairpin corners and steep hills. Seated comfortably in the back of the open truck, we headed straight up the hills to the Old Fort, a country inn. Climbing higher, the view became more breathtaking until we reached the highest point, bringing us to the gate of the Old Fort.

The Old Fort, built on the ruins of an old French fort dating from 1756, took 10 years of labor and dedication to restore to its original ambience. In 1984 it was opened to guests who discovered one of the most enchanting, small hotels in the world. At this unique country inn set among tropical gardens, the chickens produce the morning breakfast, and every evening a pair of peacocks appear on cue, perched atop the walls of the old sugar mill, preening against the setting sun.

Each of the six guestrooms retain some of the original stone walls, and the combination of exposed ceiling beams and rafters creates a distinctly medieval feel, its simplicity graced with antiques and original paintings. In the open air, lower den of the fort, the Mediterranean-Creole cuisine is excellent. For romantic couples and honeymooners who enjoy great food by candle and firelight, an added attraction is the superb selection of classical music.

Strolling around Bequia is like Alice’s journey through wonderland. People look large while all the structures appear small and quaint. From the popular Frangipani Hotel, where yacht owners from around the world gather at the open air bar and restaurant, all the way to the Plantation House Resort, there is an intriguing walk that ducks under trees along a narrow path at the very edge of the water. The stone walkway extends the length of the waterfront, with sections carved out by people taking shortcuts. This became my artery — a daily walk to lunch at the Frangipani, then a walk past the Gingerbread Restaurant and boutiques, all the way to Maranne’s for homemade frozen yogurt. The water, even in this busy harbor, is clean and inviting. After a busy day, we would later return to watch the sun set from a strategic spot on the deck in front of the lovely Plantation House.

Bequia, island of fishermen and boat builders, has a magnetic appeal to the adventurous visitor, someone who prefers the tropical delights of smaller, more informal islands where beaches are secluded. Bequia has ample four-star and comfortable three-star hotels and budget guesthouses that include breakfast and dinner. Prices range from $150 double, per night, meals included, to a guesthouse single at $40, or a two-bedroom apartment for $340 per week.

Friendship Bay Hotel has a great beach location with a friendly staff, tennis courts, scuba diving, windsurfing, sailing and water skiing. It is ideal for water sports rather than swimming. Bequia’s best beaches are at Lower Bay and Princess Margaret Beach located close to the village center.

Evenings in Bequia are relaxed. You can spend them on a hill reaching for the stars, enjoy a five-course gourmet dinner, or take a walk to the Schooner to participate in the island’s karioke club. This is a guaranteed evening of laughs, even though the talented islanders set quite a high standard is singing ability. Nevertheless, with a group it can be a hilarious evening.

Palm Island — Island of Light

Flying from Bequia, Mustique Airways brought us to Union Island where we were met at the airport. From the airport it’s 10 minutes by cabin cruiser to Palm Island and its Palm Island Beach Club.

My first and lasting impression of this island is the wonderful impact of its radiant light. The soft, clean, white stretch of sand rimmed the island as far as the eye could see. Lines of palm trees followed the path of the beach along the enticingly translucent blue sea. Every sight evokes harmony; nothing blurs the natural beauty.

This tiny paradise island, the size of a handkerchief, is the fruition of a pioneer's dream. John Caldwell developed the former Prune Island from an unwanted, mosquitoed swampland, into Palm, the dream island it is today.

One of the most enjoyable attractions for vacationers at this relaxed, friendly resort is the quality and variety of the food. The atmosphere is non-imposing, and the management is in tune with the guests. The encircling sea is the source of all activity, from scuba diving to wind surfing. Rates: High season, $265-345 per couple; Low season, $245. Phone: (800) 858-4618.

Mayreau -- Exquisite Island of Yesterday

The boat ride from Palm Island to Salt Whistle Bay on the island of Mayreau took just 30 minutes. This half-moon bay, as still as glass with barely a ripple, has to take the prize for the purest, most picturesque and peaceful harbor in the world. Canadian couple Undine and Tom Potter fell in love with this island while sailing in 1977, looking for their own tropical paradise.

They bought a choice piece of land on a peninsula dividing the Atlantic from the Caribbean and opened the Salt Whistle Bay Club in 1980. Beneath the shade of tall palms and ficus trees, this lovely, casual resort features cottages built the island's bluebitch stone. Each cottage has its own private thatched-roof gazebo for meals. With her boundless energy and genuine warmth, being pampered by Undine Potter adds to the feeling of complete relaxation on this island.

Two experiences not to be missed while on Mayreau are a boat trip out to the uninhabited Tobago Cays for a day of snorkeling and a walk across the high hill and down into Mayreau's small village. It’s worth the hike, even in the hot sun. A Catholic Church, a school and a graveyard stand nobly at the pinnacle with a panoramic view of the horizon in all directions. Less than 200 people, many goats and a few sheep live happily here. It has all the charm of a forgotten island where people walk in beauty and survive by the bountiful sea.

Other Grenadine islands I visited briefly include Mustique, Canouan, and Young, all extraordinarily beautiful with their own unique character.

Young, smallest of all, is reached via a causeway from St. Vincent. The atmosphere at the resort is spectacular with excellent service, fantastic homemade breads and carefully selected fruits, vegetables, meats and fresh fish. It’s a joy to anticipate a meal here.

Mustique Island covers 1,400 acres where private homes that are spectacular showcases of international architects in collaboration with Vincentian craftsmen and builders. Island home of the rich and famous, Princess Margaret and many movie stars vacation here. Cotton House, an 18th-century cotton warehouse, was renovated by the late Oliver Messel and is now a lovely hotel with a graceful, somewhat familiar charm and southern belle appeal.

Canouan Island, birthplace of shipbuilding in the Grenadines, has a population of less than 700 and is another gem in the chain. The people here retain a sunny, shy, sweetness but also an avid curiosity about the larger world.

Getting there: American Airlines flies from Washington Dulles to Barbados via San Juan where you connect to St. Vincent, Bequia, Union, Canouan or Mustique via Mustique Airways. (800) 223-0599. LIAT Caribbean Airlines also serves St. Vincent and Union Island from Barbados, Grenada and St. Lucia. (800) 468-0482.

Heartbroken Haiti

By Patricia Keegan

Sudden, uncontrollable, unforeseeable --
From the whimsical shift of the indifferent earth
A mighty force of destruction bursts forth
Unleashing hell -- chewing, churning and splitting
The delicate fabric of Haiti.

An ominous silence descends, calm as a concussion.
Images cascade from the TV screen,
Like a ghost, I stand transfixed, inadequate
Against this tidal wave of loss.
Everywhere, loss, loss, loss, loss.
Among the rubble: fathers, mothers, brothers, sisters,
Babies, children, the old, the young,
Homes, dreams, aspirations, security,
Gone forever, decreed dead, diminished to mere glimpses
Sown randomly within the threads of time.

Impotent, solitary we stand, no blame, no anger,
No method of retaliation against
The insane eruptions of the oblivious, detached earth,
Blythly continuing its path around the sun.

And now from somewhere deep within the shifted land
The muffled cries begin:
A symphony of pathos emanating from the rubble,
Urgency clutches at time,
Each precious second, each ebbing moment a life can be saved.

Rescuers: Faces of kindness lean close to the ground
Digging dirt with their hands as they kneel,
Shouting words of resistance against time slipping by:
'Don’t give up, We’ll find you, We’re here.'
Their hands are all bloody, their shouts filled with hope,
But the sun cannot hold back the night.

Etched against the chaos, tall, straight and noble,
Wearing a red-ribboned straw hat and long cotton skirt,
A mother stands in the half-dusk,
Watching men with swollen hands begin to leave the rescue site.
'Come tomorrow,' she pleads.
'My child, my daughter, lying beneath the rubble, is alive!'

Dust fills the days, dead bodies line the roads
Cries of anguish pierce the nights.
I am transported to Port au Prince,
Fixated on this agony of agonies;
Hunger, thirst, excruciating pain,
Field hospitals devoid of surgical tools,
Limbs amputated crudely with saws,
Vodka spilled onto wounds for sterilization.
Left to their own devices
What will the Haitians do?

Out of the darkness comes a voice, a single note,
Like a sigh, soaring and soaring as though reaching for restoration from the heavens.
Higher and higher, joined by another and another.
A crowd gathers, holding hands, faces turned upwards,
As though searching for solace among the stars.
They lay their burden down, rest for awhile,
Standing together as Haitians
Finding strength in their faith and each other
They will overcome.

The returning sun reveals again the deadly chaos,
Jagged scars everywhere,
But amid this devastation
Miracles and beauty rise to the surface:
We see hope in the clear eyes and dust-caked face
Of four year–old Monley.
After five days in darkness, he blinks against the sudden light,
Yet upon his face, no fear reflected,
Only memories of love and trust
And the echo of his father’s last words --
'Don’t move, just be patient and someone will come!'
The sun still rises in a dazzling light over Haiti,
Leaving behind a sky filled with billions of stars,
Beneath this sky, the pain goes on and on and on.

Cuba - After the Pope's Visit

By Patricia Keegan

Changes in Cuba may be in the embryonic stage, but the impact of Pope John Paul’s visit has beamed a fresh, new light into the hearts of the Cuban people. Yes, more people are attending church, but for the first time, as one Cuban said, he sees signs of Cuban unity as pro- and anti-Castro factions express confidence in the future of their country.

As viewers around the world watched the meeting of Pope John Paul II and President Fidel Castro, they began a week-long immersion into the public dialogue between seemingly disparate ideologies. Nonetheless, the two connected in unimagined ways, and the people of Cuba and the United States will benefit through the Pope’s message and through the intensive media examination of Cuban society.

Pope John Paul connected with the people of Cuba on a human, caring level that was palpable to them. Despite their experience in a dictatorship, they are not a closed or somber populace. The Pope’s visit to Cuba was timely, for although this event had been in the wind for 15 years, it was providential that it should come at this time of immense hardship for the Cuban people.

A globalist who believes that no nation, group or individual can stand securely without moral underpinnings, the Pope told the people of Cuba, and those listening around the world, that we are experiencing a new era in which no nation can live alone.

“As such the Cuban people cannot be deprived of ties with other people which are necessary for economic, social and cultural development, particularly when the isolation provoked indiscriminately affects the population, aggravating the difficulties of the weakest with regard to basic needs like nutrition, health or education. Everyone can and must take steps for a concrete change in this sense. May all nations, especially those who share the same Christian heritage, unite to overcome obstacles, so that the Cuban people, the protagonists of their history, can maintain international relations that favor the common good. In this way they will contribute to overcoming the anguish provoked by poverty, both material and moral.”

In his reference to the almost 40 year U.S. embargo against Cuba, the Pope said, “Restrictive economic measures imposed from outside the country are unjust and ethically unacceptable.”

During NBC’s coverage of the Pope’s visit, a news anchor was heard asking why so many American journalists go to Cuba and seem to love it. The answer is not easy to articulate. Perhaps it is the combination of all attributes of the Cuban personality. They are good conversationalists with a lively oneness, warmth and intelligence. Their literacy rate is 98%. Innocent of material gains, they have developed a generosity of spirit radiating against the backdrop of a stunningly beautiful country. For the observer, it carries its own pathos, because, as the thornbird knows, this innocence will die.

This was my third visit to Cuba, the second in two years, and I was heartened by the indomitable spirit of the Cubans, still hanging on to their last thread of hope for a brighter future, and still working hard at creative survival.

What was disheartening was the increased exploitation of young Cuban girls by the “extranjeros,” men from other countries, luring girls with the reward of the almighty dollar. Prostitution did not exist in Cuba after the revolution, but has been steadily growing in the past few years.

With the two-tiered economy, tourists with dollars and Cubans with pesos, there is great incentive to get dollars. The average monthly salary for a doctor, economist or other professional is just $20. Rent, education and health care are taken care of by the government.

Entrepreneurship is operating at some obvious levels, but only by special license. Free lancers are sometimes ignored, but sometimes clamped down on by the authorities. Some operate successful restaurants in private homes, called “paladares,” where the food is home cooked and served by the family. Courageous car owners, some with beautiful antique cars, others driving old jalopies with cardboard replacing window glass, offer fares much cheaper than tourist taxies, but they could be stopped and asked to produce their license.

The purpose of this visit was to continue to explore the culture and to see if there was new activity in Catholic churches.

A Tradition of Artistic Endeavor

Cuba holds a prominent place in the world of arts, ranging from the National Symphony orchestra to the National Ballet of Cuba to a showcase of museums and galleries, some of the best in Latin America. Havana has almost 40 museums and at least 14 major art galleries with an incredible array of art, sculpture and photo exhibitions. An outstanding museum is the National Arts Museum, home to a collection of both classical and modern art featuring works by Renoir, Picasso, Rodin and other masters. Cuban music, popular all over the world, flows in the Cuban blood, guitars, violins and pianos. You need walk only a few blocks in Havana before encountering an outdoor cafe with a lively trio, or becoming part of the street audience for a salsa band.

I walked to the Museo de la Revolucion, housed in the former presidential Palace, to see the complete exhibition of the revolution, with maps, weaponry, photographs, tanks and warplanes, and the Granma, the 38-foot wooden cruiser that Castro and his small band used in their near-disastrous seven-day crossing from Mexico to Cuba in 1956 to begin the insurrection.

I stopped at a local Papeleria (stationary store) where I met young Jorge, who asked me about Newport, his uncle’s home. As we spoke, I heard church bells ringing and decided to stop in at the church around the corner. Jorge volunteered to come along as my impromptu guide.

The priest was going from pew to pew blessing tiny infants held in their mother’s arms. Several small girls wearing long, lace dresses and white bonnets played among the flowers on the altar. Nobody seemed to mind. The priest talked about what it meant to be baptized. I asked 20 year-old Jorge if he had been baptized.

“No,“ he answered. Then he whispered, “You know, when I was fifteen years old everything was going wrong in my life. I was married, but I felt a deep emptiness and a burning inside of me to know more about God.”

“What did your parents say,” I asked.

“My father loves me, but he doesn’t believe in anything. My mother just works all the time.”

The priest poured holy water on the babies’ heads, blessing them as “children of God, radiating forever in the light and presence of Christ which bring peace.”

As the service ended with a chorus of wailing infants, the serious-faced Jorge asked if I minded waiting while he spoke with the priest. He stood in line at the altar. After speaking with him he returned to tell me that the priest would see him on Monday to talk more. He appeared happy.

Jorge has sugar diabetes and has to inject insulin twice a day. Insulin, like most drugs, is not easily accessible in Cuba, and presents a real challenge to his family.

An Artist’s Life

At the Officina del Historidades de la Ciudad, (office of the city historian), I came upon an exhibition of two wood sculptors, Emilio Penalver and his teacher, Osvaldo Llins. On display were sensitive wood carvings of human figures. A contemplative figure bowed in deep thought. “Meditation” by Llins, seemed to project its own quiet energy, drawing you into his thoughts. Penalver, his protege, was able to capture the delicacy, refinement and supple energy of the ballerina in a piece approximately two feet high.

I was especially fond of his abstract carving of a ballerina who stood on her toes, leaning backward while holding a fine veil, as though in motion, above her torso. An artist standing nearby told me that the figures they create spring from their imagination, without the benefit of models or photos. Some actually look as though they could breathe.

Both artists were kind enough to meet me the next day. Smiling Emilio said, in confidential tones, tinged with irony, “I am a black man with muscles; when people look at my ballerinas and then at me, they can’t believe it’s possible that they are my creations. When they come to see me at work in my studio, they say, ‘This is incredible!’ “

He said the life of an artist in Cuba is not bad. “My wife is a teacher, we have two children, but I work day and night. When I’m working on something particularly exciting, I forget to sleep and eat. I first became interested in ballet as a child. I didn’t know at the time that the music I heard, lying on the floor, was for the ballet. My first experience at a live ballet was a thrilling occasion.”

In describing the inner life of an artist, Emilio says, “I believe the artist must be a free soul finding his own way to the ultimate creation, rising above all else to find individual satisfaction.”

Ups and Downs of Havana

One of my symbolic barometers of economic health in Havana has been the beautiful Hotel Nacional. During its heyday in Batista’s time, this center of activity was the hotel of choice for the wealthy, including the mafia. Movie stars, luminaries, the British Royal family and Winston Churchill all rested noble heads on its crisp linen pillows.

On my first visit in 1992, the Hotel Nacional had just finished a renovation and grand re-opening celebration with fireworks and a visit from Castro. I thought it was destined to be the flagship of Havana. This time, I visited the Nacional from my humble abode at the St. John’s hotel, ($22 per night and just across the street).

Outside, the Nacional is an architectural masterpiece, while inside its refined and polished ambience of mahogany, marble and crystal reflect a lively, bright-faced, efficient staff. Previously, I would take the lift to the ninth floor, climb the spiral staircase, and stand in the cupolas to look across Havana to the sea. It was a spectacular sight at night. But on return visits, I find the sparkle and special feeling are somehow missing. My rooftop view was closed waiting for a new restaurant to open.

Faded Glories

The Spanish colonial architecture of Havana is both stunning and tragic, a constant reminder of the time warp this nation is experiencing. In some areas you see a magnificent house next door to one literally tumbling into disrepair. The lack of consistency is surprising, especially in the more beautiful areas.

The Miramar area is filled with many restored mansions graced with columns and balustrades on lovely tree-lined streets. Some are rented to foreign corporations, and others serve as kindergartens, clinics and clubs. The long blocks of Spanish colonial facades that face the sea along the Malecon appear to be in an early stage of restoration. When this facelift is complete, and repainted in lovely pastels, the ball gown will be in place to welcome the new century.

Havana Viejo (Old Havana), a UNESCO World Historic preservation site, is one of the most intriguing old sections of any city in the world. It reminds me of Barcelona’s old town with its ability to entice you further and further down narrow, cobbled streets into an atmosphere of adventure. Around each corner, a street leads to something unexpected, sometimes a major pot hole, or a dead end, sometimes a lovely art gallery or bookstore or a plaza with craftsmen selling their wares.

Among these pockets of great charm stands the beautiful San Isabel Hotel, originally the Casa de Joaquin Gomez, built in 1835 for a wealthy merchant. If these luxury hotels keep appearing, and a city-wide restoration continues, Havana could become the destination of choice for the rich and famous. The cost to the NBC staff staying at the San Isabel during the Papal visit was $150 per night. It’s a prime example of the city’s potential for elegance and graceful design, but only the rich can stay at these prices.

Up and Coming Varadero

Varadero, Cuba’s tourist mecca, is about 140 kilometers (two hours by car) east of Havana. This coastal resort area is one of the most fabulous in the world. Each five-star hotel seems to outshine the next, but tranquility and relaxation prevail. Spain’s Grupo Sol has four luxury hotels under the Melia trademark. Three of them, the Sol Palmeras, Melia Varadero and Melia Las Americas, are adjacent and take up a mile of prime beachfront. Visitors to any of these properties are full of praise, not only for the service, but for the quality, attention to detail and excellent food. Daily flights from Spain supplement the variety of food which makes their buffets famous.

Aspirations of Young Artists

An evening at either the National Symphony or the Cuban National Ballet opens up another rich, refined dimension of Cuban culture. The Symphony, which first performed in 1960, has a repertoire ranging from 17th-century works to the most contemporary creations, emphasizing Latin American and Cuban composers.

It was my second visit to the Cuban ballet, which for many reasons is heartbreakingly beautiful. Following in the footsteps of the great prima ballerina, Alicia Alonso, many young Cubans become world famous. One of the outstanding students I saw last year, Rosario, is now dancing in Switzerland. The skill and discipline of these non-professionals is bringing deserved recognition in Europe and other parts of the world.

These young faces, so delicate and earnest in expression, mask many obstacles including the quality of the musical accompaniment. On both my visits, they danced to scratchy music from 1950’s era equipment. There were tense moments when the music faltered, throwing the dancer’s timing off. Once again, I witnessed the Cuban spirit at work as the ballerinas ignored all the annoyances and concentrated on the perfection of the art over which they had control.

What about Cuba’s Future?

Many who visit Cuba for the first time are appalled by the state of the old buildings and the overall feeling of poverty. But the glass is half full. Shabby, worn out and neglected though it may look, its wealth lies in an industrious, well-educated, creative populace. Combine that with a release from both self imposed and U.S. imposed bondage, and the world would see a real winner. I think of Professor Henry Higgins in “My Fair Lady,” who saw much more in Eliza than her unkempt facade. I look forward to Havana’s gradual transformation into a beautiful, independent, capital city.

A Papal Legacy

The purpose of the Papal visit was one of reconciliation. Christians throughout the world know what that means. The essence of reconciliation is forgiveness, and that is always difficult. The Cubans who left during the Revolution have to look, not only at what they have suffered and lost, but what their relatives who stayed have suffered.

This is about love. The struggle for sovereignty, the central focus of Cuba’s survival throughout history, until this day, must be acknowledged. Terrible things have happened to innocent people. By lifting the Helms/Burton embargo against Cuba, the U.S. Congress has the power to make life more livable for the Cuban people.

If the embargo was enacted to change the political situation by stressing the system and burdening the people, it has not worked. Periods of near starvation have not lead to any sign of a popular movement to overthrow Fidel Castro.

This is a situation where not one drop of blood should be shed. An uprising against the government could bring bloodshed. It is a primitive, archaic method of changing a system and not worthy of the American people.

We are neighbors, and in this world of post Cold War enlightenment, isolating Cuba is an anomaly. Our reconciliation with Vietnam and our booming business with China, a communist country, make our policy of punishing Cuba and those who trade with her somewhat of a mystery. Ordinary citizens of America and Cuba want both governments to show flexibility so that Pope John Paul II’s call to reconciliation can begin. This is what Christian solidarity is all about.

Kosovo: A Fresh Start

Interview with Ambassador Avni Spahiu 

By Alan Dessoff

For a country with a history that dates back to the Neolithic era, but which became independent just two years ago, the Republic of Kosovo is getting off to a fresh start. Both its ancient and modern beginnings shape the mission of Avni Spahiu, who was credentialed by President Barack Obama last November as the new country’s first ambassador to the United States.

Slightly smaller than the state of Connecticut and with a population of 2.2 million, Kosovo is working hard to overcome a history of oppression that finally has brought it into the international community as a free nation. But as one of the poorest countries in Europe, and with some countries still not recognizing its independent status, Kosovo’s fresh start is encountering bumps in the road that Spahiu is working hard to overcome.

During the medieval period, Kosovo was the center of the Serbian empire, and that has underscored its centuries-long and often war-torn journey that continues to have some diplomatic implications today. After World War II, Kosovo became an autonomous province in the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. Its status changed, however, in the late 1980s, when Slobodan Milosevic propelled himself to power in Belgrade by exploiting Serbian nationalism and the question of Kosovo.

In late 1998, after the Kosovo Liberation Army had been formed to secure Kosovo’s independence, Milosevic unleashed a savage police and military campaign that included widespread atrocities against civilians. “It was a terrible war,” Spahiu recounted. “We had more than 12,000 people killed, hundreds of thousands maimed, wounded, raped — all kinds of terrible things.” More than 800,000 ethnic Albanians were forced from their homes in Kosovo.

That followed nearly two decades in which “we were denied basic human rights,” Spahiu said. Schools were closed. “We had to continue our education in basements and private homes because the police were persecuting people who were attending classes in the Albanian language,” Spahiu said. “It was a difficult time for our people. We tried to find a solution through peaceful means, but it didn’t work. The provocations continued and war was imposed on our people.” It ended only with the intervention of NATO, followed by the United Nations Security Council's adoption of a resolution suspending Belgrade’s dominance.

Although there is peace now, Kosovo’s relationship with Serbia continues to be unsettled, making it difficult for Kosovo to gain the full international recognition that it seeks. But it is making progress and Spahiu is confident that it will achieve its goal.

So far, 65 countries, including the United States and all of Kosovo’s neighbors except Serbia, have formally recognized Kosovo, and last year Kosovo joined the International Monetary Fund and World Bank. Of the 27 members of the European Union, 22 have recognized the new country. Kosovo intends to become part of the EU as well as NATO. Even though it is part of Europe physically, “we want to integrate into Europe,” Spahiu said.

To do that, Kosovo is pursuing positive relationships with the countries that have not yet offered formal recognition, including Russia, which has chosen to side with Serbia. “We would like to have good relations with Russia. Our message has always been friendly towards Russia, asking them to accept a new reality and a new country because it is to the benefit of peace in the region. Kosovo has proven to be a constructive, stabilizing factor for the region,” Spahiu declared.

Similarly, he said, Kosovo would like to establish good relations with Serbia, but “with Serbia, we have some problems.” Serbia’s “mentality of hegemony” has been caused by the many wars in the region and “we hope they give up that kind of mentality. All the countries in the region are small and they are a small country, too. We don’t need confrontation; we should work together and look forward to the future. We hope Serbia will realize this some day and recognize our country and live as good neighbors,” Spahiu said.

“Our government has expressed its willingness and readiness to discuss practical issues with Serbia,” he continued, “but not the question of status, because that is over. Kosovo has become a country and should be treated as such by Serbia. But Serbia has been trying to block our participation in regional conferences, meetings, and this has made things difficult.”

Serbia also has been “pressing” local Serbs in the north of Kosovo “not to recognize our institutions, not to integrate into our society,” which adds to the difficulties. “Our government has been very cautious in dealing with the Serbs in Kosovo,” Spahiu said. Kosovo has called on Serbian authorities to talk about “how to improve the lives” of Serbians in Kosovo. “They can read our constitution and see what we are doing. The offer is there from our government. We are trying to do the best for the Serbs and for other minorities as well, which all accept Kosovo as a country and are participating in our institutions.”

But “Belgrade is refusing; they say we are not a country so they won’t talk to us,” Spahiu said. “I think it is political. They don’t want to let Kosovo go, no matter what.”

Still, there have been “some good signs,” Spahiu added. 'Serbs participated in the latest municipal elections in Kosovo and four towns now have Serb mayors. There are Serb MPs in Parliament, one of whom is effectively Vice-Speaker, as well as two Ministers in government. Currently, there are 10 set-aside seats for Serbs in Parliament, in addition to however many seats they gain in regular voting.' The Kosovo constitution, Spahiu explained, stipulates that Serbians in the country “will be able to decide their own affairs in the areas where they live.”

Today Kosovo is a nation of three religions — predominantly Muslim and Catholic (Albanians) and Eastern Orthodox (Serbs). Spahiu pointed out that Kosovo’s new flag contains six stars, representing all the country’s ethnic groups. “Even though Albanians make up 90 percent of the population, there are no differences with the minority groups. We don’t even call them minorities. We call them ‘ethnic communities.’ We’re doing our best to accommodate all of them,” Spahiu declared.

Kosovo’s independence is “a very clear case,” he reiterated. “Those who are against Kosovo’s independence say we can not secede. It is not a matter of secession. We were part of a country, Yugoslavia, that disintegrated. It doesn’t exist any more.” Kosovo was one of eight federal units of the former Yugoslavia and “seven of them became small countries and are living in peace,” he said. After resolving some border questions with Macedonia, “we have no open questions with any of our neighbors.”

But there are questions about some other countries have not recognized Kosovo. Among the holdouts is Spain, which is “difficult to understand,” Spahiu said. But Spain currently presides over the EU and has stated that it will not block Kosovo’s participation, “so that’s good enough for now,” Spahiu said.

Greece also has not yet recognized Kosovo as a country although “they recognize our passport and have an office in Pristina,” Kosovo’s capital, Spahiu said. China does not recognize Kosovo, either. “We want to friends with China, of course,” he said, noting that “we have many Chinese who have opened shops” in Kosovo.

Spahiu acknowledges that a question about the legitimacy of Kosovo’s independence, which Serbia took to the World Court, has caused delay in gaining recognition from many countries. The court is expected to issue a non-binding opinion in May or June, “and we are not afraid” of what it will be, Spahiu said. While Russia sided with Serbia in the case, the U.S., Great Britain and “all the other western democracies” supported Kosovo’s independence. “We hope this opinion will once again confirm our right to have our freedom,” or that at least it will be “neutral, stating that no international law has been violated. And we will move forward after that,” asserted Spahiu.

As Kosovo continues to seek recognition and respect in the international community, it also is redeveloping itself domestically and looking for investors to help build its economy. “We have an excellent legal infrastructure and a good banking system,” Spahiu said. With its membership in the IMF and World Bank, “security is better” for investors, who so far include many Albanian Americans, and “there are good prospects for profit,” Spahiu said.

“We would like to see big American companies invest,” he asserted. He said Kosovo is trying to develop a conference for investors, maybe this fall, in Washington or New York. “We will invite some big American companies and show them the investment possibilities in Kosovo,” he said.

Membership in the IMF and World Bank also help Kosovo obtain loans for redevelopment projects, including a highway construction job now underway, supported by the World Bank. Another, also with World Bank support, would increase the country’s electric power capacity based on Kosovo’s coal reserves, the largest in Europe. Government officials said in early March that six international consortiums have expressed initial interest in building a coal-fired power plant in the country.

Kosovo is rich in minerals including lead, zinc and chrome, as well as silver and gold mines, although they are currently closed. “They could become operational in the future, Spahiu said.

Agriculture is a strong resource; the food it produced sustained the country during the war, and with its food processing capacities, Kosovo fills about 70 percent of its needs. It looks forward to exporting its agricultural products, including wine, to the U.S. Before the war, it sold its wines in Europe, particularly Germany, Spahiu said.

But he reminds that Kosovo had to “start over, from zero,” to rebuild after the war. “Everything was destroyed. For more than 20 years, nothing was built,” he says. “We had craftsmanship, silversmiths. Now everything is slowly coming back. The people are trying to get things going again,” with support, he added, “from our friends, including the U.S.,” through the Agency for International Development and other organizations.

Once a Christian land, Kosovo was converted under 500 years of dominance to the rule of Islam, but Spahiu made clear it is different from the fundamentalism in other Muslim countries. “We are European Muslims. We are Muslims who live with MTV,’” he said. “Even though the Serbs tried to portray our fight as fundamentalist, that was not the case. We can not ignore our past, when everyone was Christian. Our oldest authors and intellectuals were Christians. The first writers, who wrote the first books in Albania, were Catholic priests.”

Albanians are a nation of three religions — predominantly Muslim but also with Catholics and Orthodox Albanians — and “we are very tolerant of each other; we have never had any religious problems,” Spahiu said. “We believe in God just like the other big religions, but we are not overcome by fanaticism, and we hope we will be able to preserve that. There are influences in the modern world trying to get into Kosovo and influence our young people, but that has not been acceptable to our general population.”

With an average population age under 30, young people are one of Kosovo’s greatest resources, a “demographic dividend” for the country and “a blessing, but also a headache,” he said. The blessing is that they are highly educated and trained in information technology and other fields. The headache is that it is difficult for them to find jobs in a country with an unemployment rate above 40 percent, another problem that more foreign investment could help remedy.

Kosovo today is a modern, European culture of young people, Spahiu said. It also is a culture of artists, writers and poets. “I think suffering produces good poets,” he said. He cited Ibrahim Rugova, a professor and writer who led a nonviolent Albanian resistance movement in the early 1990s and whose heroism is a key element of Kosovo’s character now. “He followed the only road the true intellectual may follow — being against violence. He tried to save his people,” Spahiu said.

Rugova’s peaceful movement failed to yield results and was followed by Milosevic’s brutal campaign, “but that period is cherished as something very valuable for the soul of our nation. It united our people in the cause of freedom,” Spahiu said. Children in Kosovo’s schools are taught about it. “It should not be forgotten,” Spahiu declared.

Education is important to Kosovo and Spahiu cites the single public university and many private ones throughout the country, including the American University in Pristina, affiliated with Rochester (N.Y.) Institute of Technology.

As it continues to improve its economy and infrastructure, Kosovo is starting to promote tourism and has hired Saatchi & Saatchi, a global advertising agency, to help in the effort. “We have so many other problems, but we want people to know about the country — its people, culture, scenery,” Spahiu said. There are flight connections to Pristina through many European countries, he pointed out. Americans in particular will feel “at home” in Kosovo “because everybody likes them; they helped us,” Spahiu asserted.

That is why “it is an honor and privilege” to be the first ambassador of his country to the U.S., said Spahiu, who was a journalist before his diplomatic appointment. But he had to get the embassy off to a fresh start. “We had to set it up from scratch,” he said. “It is the youngest embassy in Washington,” currently housing Spahiu and four staff members in an office suite in Georgetown.

While seeking more economic development assistance from the U.S. public sector as well as private investors, Spahiu spends much time these days lobbying other ambassadors for their countries’ recognition of Kosovo. “We want to make our presence felt among the diplomatic community in Washington, and let them know that Kosovo exists as a new country,” Spahiu declared. “We have to build our image.”

Ghana:The New Gateway To Africa

By Pamela Pimm

Ghana, situated between the Cote d'Ivoire and Togo on the West Coast of Africa, is one of the Continent's most beautiful countries. From its picturesque, coastal location to its wide range of attractions and amenities, Ghana is a varied and compact microcosm of Africa that appeals to all travelers. For those seeking a rich and vibrant culture, sun-drenched beaches with pristine swimming, ancient European castles, lush tropical forests, colorful festivals celebrating the chieftaincy, mouth-watering seafood and Africa's friendliest people, Ghana is a wonderful find.
The exuberant Ghanaian hospitality — expressed heartily in the traditional greeting 'Akwaaba,' or Welcome — will warm you. English-speaking travelers will feel right at home in Ghana, English is the official language.

Formerly called the Gold Coast by Europeans who came initially in search of gold, and later for slaves, Ghana derives its post-independence name from an ancient, powerful kingdom. The splendor of the past remains alive today in the religious royalty of the village chiefs, the magnificent works of art in bronze, wood and stone, and the life rhythms of the village, marketplace and fishing port.

The southern part of Ghana is much as you1d expect of West Africa, lush jungle, banana plantations and bone-white beaches, punctuated by the string of 500-year old European forts and castles that line the former Gold Coast. But real surprises begin as you travel north, for instance to the game-rich savannah of Mole National Park, a setting that evokes East Africa, or to the deeply Muslim Burkina Faso border region, where mood and architecture have unexpected overtones of North Africa. 

Fortunately, Ghana lacks the trappings associated with mass tourism. But even though you're off the tourist treadmill, there are exciting off-the-beaten-track possibilities. There are at least five national parks and reserves suited for equipped independent travelers. Though Ghana lacks a singularly renown tourist attraction, it offers memorable highlights: swimming below a gorgeous waterfall in the eastern highlands, getting closer to a wild elephant than in East Africa, climbing to the roof of one of the surreal mosques that dot the northwest, taking a dugout canoe through papyrus swamps to the stilted village of Mzulezu, or watching colorful mona monkeys play between the houses of Baobeng village.

Outstanding in the African community for its economic and political achievements, Ghana is a natural gateway to West Africa. After a decade of reforms, Ghana has established a remarkable record of economic growth, expanding export industries, a growing stock market and rapidly increasing private investment opportunities. Ghana has received a strong endorsement of economic health from the Consultative Group for Ghana, with representatives of 11 developed countries and multilateral institutions, including the IMF, the World Bank and the UN Development Program (UNDP). With a stable political climate and an average annual GDP growth rate of nearly 5% over the past 10 years, Ghana is poised to lead Africa into a new period of stability and economic prosperity. 

Trailblazing of this sort is not new for Ghana. The former Gold Coast was the first country in Africa to have extended contact with Europeans, one of the first to be formally colonized, and in 1957 it became the first to be granted independence in the post-war era. Less prestigiously, Ghana also became one of the first African countries to slide into post-independence chaos and, while it never plummeted to the depths reached by, say, Liberia or Rwanda, the modern visitor will find it difficult to reconcile accounts of Ghana ten years ago with the vibrant country they see today.

A Country of Natural Wealth

Ghana is endowed with abundant natural wealth, including vast agricultural, mining and human resources. Along with its growing manufacturing sector, agriculture remains a key sector of the economy. It employs 60% of the Ghanaian workforce and makes up almost 44% of the country's GDP. Cocoa is the second-largest export, and new exports such as wood products, textiles, jewelry, pineapples, tuna fish and cotton are diversifying Ghana's agricultural export profile. 

In addition to agricultural wealth, Ghana is rich in mineral resources. Gold has replaced cocoa as the country's primary export, with diamonds, aluminum and bauxite accounting for a large part of the country's exports. The mining industry was liberalized in 1987, and strategic investors such as de Beers, Lonrho, and others from the U.S., Canada, Australia, South Africa and Britain have taken advantage of the business opportunities. 

Ghana's industrious, well-educated workforce is one of their most valuable resources. There is a strong primary, secondary and higher education infrastructure, and literacy rates average 53 percent, one of the highest in the continent. 

The Historical Monuments of Ghana's Gold Coast

A trip to Ghana would not be complete without a visit to Cape Coast, the capital city of Ghana's legendary central region. Located one and a half hours west of Accra, the Ghanaian capital, Cape Coast is the heart of Ghana's rich historical past. It offers a unique view of Ghana as the former center of European colonial activity on Africa1s west coast. Three of the region's most prominent fortifications, Cape Coast, Elmina Castles and Fort St. Jago — all officially designated as World Heritage Sites by the UN — record the horror of millions of Africans who were captured, enslaved and shipped to the plantations of the Americas and the Caribbean. 

Cape Coast Castle was constructed as a small trading lodge in the 16th century, then altered and enlarged to become a substantial fort by 1627. It was captured by the Swedes but became a British possession in 1664. Cape Coast Castle, through which millions of slaves were shipped to the Caribbean and the U.S., was the seat of British colonial administration until 1877 when government offices moved to Christiansborg Castle in Accra. 

The cannons still face seaward, stirring the imagination to scenes of exploration, discovery and great tragedy. The Museum of West African History, currently under development in cooperation with the Smithsonian Institution, brings into sharp focus the role that these great structures played in the meeting of two cultures. As you wander the ramparts of Cape Coast Castle in the salt air, the view is a visual feast. Traditional customs — the mending of nets and launching of painted fishing canoes, continue side-by-side with the new — impromptu soccer games and the hustle and bustle of business. Cape Coast Castle is alive with the human spirit.

Ten kilometers west on a promontory visible from a great distance, Elmina Castle is the earliest known European structure in the tropics. Built in 1482 by the Portuguese, the castle was taken by the Dutch in 1637, who retained control for 274 years. The vast fortification contains the first Catholic church in sub-Sahara Africa. The Castle's damp, unlit dungeons served as horrific holding areas for the human cargo of the slave trade. 

Fort St. Jago is within walking distance, the point from which the Dutch launched their successful attack on Elmina Castle. St. Jago was not used for trading activities; it provided military protection to Elmina Castle. St. Jago offers an excellent view of the Castle, the Atlantic Ocean, and the buzz of activity in Elmina's fishing harbor. 

Along with guided tours, cultural and theatrical performances are staged in Cape Coast and Elmina Castles. Among these are re-enactments of the horrors of the slave trade as well as a solemn, touching portrayal of the final journey of Africans as they walked onto hellish ships that transported them to the Americas. 

The physical and symbolic messages of these monuments foster an emotional response among visitors. But Ghanaians want visitors to remember their history, not only for the lessons it teaches, but also to absorb the Ghanaian spirit of hope and hard work. 

Within short distances are Kakum National Park, a tropical forest with a thriving wildlife population, tranquil white beaches lined with coconut palms, the whimsical Posuban Shrines of the Fante warriors, bustling Kotokuraba Market, the fabled festivals of the Sacred Stools, and a host of craft villages untouched by time.

The Natural Environment

Kakum National Park, a tropical forest enclave, is a haven for the casual visitor, birdwatcher, amateur botanist and ecotourist alike. Thirty kilometers north of Cape Coast, it offers rare plant species in a spectacular environment where trees tower 50 meters. After viewing exhibits at the Visitor's Center, the drama of the jungle comes alive as park guides discuss the complex ecosystem, traditional forest medicines, and daily village life. Ground level flora may be familiar houseplants, and the forest contains some 550 butterfly species. 

Much wildlife thrives well overhead in the forest canopy. Trails provide self-guided hiking opportunities to sight over 200 bird species: parrots, bee-eaters, blue plantain-eaters, hornbills, and kingfishers. Dense vegetation provides cover for globally endangered species such as the forest elephant and bongo, the largest forest antelope, as well as various types of monkeys. Viewing chances are increased by allowing time to sit quietly in the forest, staying at one of the free-standing camps, or by taking advantage of canopy walkways, viewing stations and blinds. 

Kakum National Park is a conservation priority area, and with light cotton clothing, long trousers, sturdy footwear, a water bottle, snacks, binoculars and a camera, the wonders of this vanishing leafy-green world are open for exploration. 

Ghanaian Craft Villages

The famous 'Kente' cloth of kings is woven in the Central Region. Whether visiting the weaving villages or trying to choose among the dynamic patterns sold in the market, visitors soon discover that the bright colors of this national cloth are the symbol of a proud Africa. 
Craft villages display the skill and dexterity of the craftspeople who produce works of art. Master artisans in Ajumako Owane specialize in carved royal regalia such as stools, linguist staffs, walking sticks, swords of state, and clan totems. Winneba, located on the main highway halfway between Accra and Cape Coast, is well-known for ceramics. Wooden handicrafts in the form of fish, animals, fruits and vegetables are carved and painted in Enyan Maim, and unglazed black and terra cotta pots are produced at Gomoa Otsew Jukwa. 

If you choose to spend several nights at one of the comfortable hotels or guest houses in the Cape Coast/Elmina area, you will have more time to follow the winding roads that lead to the rural craft villages. If you are lucky, a village may be celebrating by an evening fire with drumming, singing and dancing.

Posuban Shrines

Many villages have these traditional Fante military fortresses which also serve as the abode for war gods of the clan and a citadel of strength in times of war. In addition to their interesting history, Posuban shrines are fanciful buildings, lavishly decorated with folk art emblems and an array of life-size statues. It is customary to present libation to the ancestors, usually in the form of peppermint schnapps or a token fee to the local chief.

Festivals

Culture comes alive in the annual colorful festivals, serving to purify the ancestral 'stool' (sacred piece of furniture), cleanse communities of evil, venerate the ancestors, and supplicate the deities for prosperity and unity. 

The central region hosts the Pan-African Historical Theatre Festival (Panafest), a major biannual event designed as a cultural forum for Africans, people of African descent, and friends of the Continent. The castle courtyards provide a dramatic setting for traditional and modern performances held as part of this grand occasion. Exhibitions, workshops, audio-visual presentations, colorful durbars of the chiefs, and other social and recreational events fill the Panafest schedule held in December of even-numbered years. 

Opportunities to view drumming, dancing, firing of musketry, performance of war dances by Asafo (traditional militia) companies, and the processions and sitting-in-state of chiefs in full regalia abound at other major festivals. Chiefs, adorned in rich kente cloth and bedecked in gold, are paraded through town in 'palanquins' shaded by large, colorful parasols. 

The new year begins in the town of Elmina with Edina Buronya, a native version of Christmas commemorating a period of purification and remembering of the dead (first Thursday). A game hunt, testing bravery and strength between two traditional warrior groups, is the centerpiece of Aboakyir in Winneba (first Saturday in May), with the catch presented to the chiefs. The regatta of canoes and solemn net casting ceremony, part of Bakatue in Elmina, which celebrates the beginning of the fishing season (first Tuesday in July), is also awe inspiring. 

Recreational Activities

Beach lovers can truly relax along the expansive coastline. With 12 hours of sunshine practically guaranteed year round, and a surf that varies seasonally from calm to sizeable waves, Ghana's beaches have something for everyone. Brenu Beach near Elmina is a long stretch of palm-fringed virgin beach perfect for swimming, picnics, or leisurely strolls. Winneba Beach, nearer Accra, has developed hotel and restaurant facilities, and Gomoa Feteh Beach, just off the main highway, is a lovely and undisturbed locale with a mild surf. 

Recreation is not limited to traditional sea and sand activities. Local travel agents arrange sport fishing for barracuda and other game fish using indigenous canoes. Other seaworthy boats provide a dramatic view of the castles from the ocean. The shoreline is a major wintering ground for coastal birds. Local watercraft can be hired to cruise the natural environment of estuaries, lagoons, and mangrove swamps. 

At local markets, Batik-clad women with babies strapped on their backs skillfully balance loaded baskets on their heads, defying gravity. In the endless wave of buyers and sellers, one hears voices everywhere engaged in bargaining for foodstuffs, textiles, and a colorful array of goods. In the evening, the beat of Ghanaian music in outdoor restaurants and local nightclubs is irresistible.

Ancient Ashanti: Kingdom of Gold, Pomp and Pageantry 

Kumasi

capitol of the ancient Kingdom of Asante, lies in the midst of gold, history and culture. Founded in 1695 by King Osei Tutu, the city of Kumasi and its environs are replete with forts, museums, churches and the best in culture, pomp and pageantry. The region is also home to the UK and US listed gold mining company, Ashanti Goldfields, located at Obuasi, 50 km. south of Kumasi.

Abundant attractions in the region include both the natural environment heritage and historical/cultural heritage. 

The area teams with forest reserves, bird and wildlife sanctuaries, parks and geological formations. Historical sites in Kumasi include the Manhyia Palace Museum, Prempeh II Jubilee Museum, the Center for National Culture and the Kumasi Fort and Museum. 
The Okomfo Anokye Sword is also located in Kumasi. Legend has it that the sword was driven into the ground by the Chief Priest of the Asante Kingdom, Okomfo Anokye, and no mortal strength has been able to uproot it since the 17th century. 

A multitude of artisans work in the area producing Kente cloth, pottery, wood carving, adinkra cloth, beads, brass items, gold and silver jewelry and handwoven garments. 

Hotels are plentiful and prices are lower than in the capital, Accra.

Among Ghana's other regional attractions is Nsuleso, a lakeside village on stilts in the Western Region where life goes on in the center of Lake Tadane. The excursion from Beyin involves a walk through the reeds at the lake's edge and a trip in a dugout canoe to the village. They welcome visitors every day except Thursday, a sacred day. The western region is famous for some of the best beaches in Ghana, far less developed and more secluded. 

Lake Volta, the centerpiece of a natural resource haven with waterfalls, boating excursions and world-class game fishing on the Volta River estuary lies in the Eastern Region. Often referred to as 'the undiscovered tourist haven of Ghana,' the region offers dramatic landscapes, rivers, lakes and both Christian missionary and Ashanti Empire religious historical sites. 

The Northern Region, with 16 different ethnic groups, is an agricultural region with over 70% of its two million population employed in agriculture. Spectacular Mole National Park is here, offering savannah and riverine forests with more than 90 mammal species including elephant, buffalo, lion, leopard, antelopes and primates and about 300 bird species. 

The region's Larabanga Mosque is the largest of the ancient Sudanic style mosques in Ghana. Damba, originally celebrated by Muslims to mark the birth of Mohammed on the 12th day of the third month of the lunar calendar, has taken a traditional rather than Islamic tone. The festival is full of pageantry and showmanship and is celebrated by most ethnic groups in northern Ghana.

Guides and Getting There

'Guide to Ghana'(1998, Bradt Publications, UK, and Globe Pequot Press, USA) is an excellent, comprehensive guide by Philip Briggs, an African specialist. He thoroughly covers all geographical areas, as well as background information, planning, health and safety, maps and photos and further reading. He finds Ghana difficult to flaw, and recommends the country without reservation to even the most nervous first-time traveler for being amiable, affordable and as hassle-free as any country in Africa. 

Ghana Airways started twice-weekly, (Sunday and Wednesday), direct service on July 5th between BWI and Accra, opening the carrier's 13-city African route structure to Washington area travelers. BWI-Accra fares start at about $800 round trip. (800) 404-4262. All major European carriers connect to Ghana from their European gateways, particularly from London. Intercity travel within Ghana is excellent, whether by air, road or rail.

Eastern France: Franche- Comte's --unspoiled pleasures.

By Julian Moore 

I wish to create a place of silence, of prayer, of peace and interior joy.' The architect Le Corbusier's wish is manifest in the white purity of his Chapelle Notre-Dame-du-Haut in Ronchamp, perched on a hill in the southern Vosges mountains of eastern France. It's a perfect introduction to Franche-Comté's natural, unspoiled pleasures.

Belfort, on the aptly named Savoureuse River, has the oldest grocery store in France: opened in 1825, Chez Perello is fragrant with spices, its goods displayed in neat wooden compartments. A 168-step climb up the rose-pink cathedral tower offers a bird's-eye perspective of the medieval town nestling beneath its protective citadel, with 17th-century fortifications by Vauban. The Lion of Belfort, carved in stone on the citadel, celebrates the city's successful stand against the Prussians in 1870, when Franche-Comté remained resolutely French.

At the confluence of the Rhône-Rhine Canal and the Allan and Lizier rivers, with the Doubs on its southern outskirts, Montbéliard is crowned by the ruins of its 15th-century château. At the Musée Peugeot, as well as vintage models in period decor, there are Pike's Peak race winners and the Pope's glass 'Papamobile'.

tranquil reflections
The calm waters of the Doubs meander through lush wooded hills and emerald meadows as you cruise from Montbéliard to Besançon. Built on seven hills around a horseshoe bend of the river, Besançon was always a strategic town caught in a constant tug-of-war between France and Germany; it finally became French in 1678 when Louis XIV made it the capital of Franche-Comté. Its hilltop Citadelle, circled by Vauban's rampart walk, contains several museums, including a most moving Musée de la Résistance et de la Déportation.
The Musée Gustave Courbet, in the 18th-century house where the great pre-impressionist painter was born, overlooks the Loue River in Ornans; a short walk away you can see the spot where he painted Miroir d'Ornans, showing the quayside houses reflected in the tranquil mirror of the river.

Farther down the Loue at Port-Lesney, I woke to the cooing of turtledoves and a tinkling fountain at the Château de Germigny, recently converted into a luxury hotel. Nearby, at Arc-et-Senans, the Royal Saltworks are visible proof of 18th-century avant-garde architect Claude Nicolas Ledoux's theory that 'beauty brings goodness.' A feeling of well-being pervades this oldest visitable factory in France, and its neoclassical buildings have the perfect symmetry of a sundial.
Louis Pasteur's childhood home on the Cuisance River at Arbois is just as he left it, complete with the laboratory in which he worked each summer; his vineyard, on the Jura slopes, is now a stop on the Route des Vins. Arbois's celebrated vin jaune, a sweet golden nectar, can be tasted at the Jura Wine Institute in the Château Pécaud.

caves and country cooking
The Rhône-Rhine Canal joins the Doubs at Dole, Pasteur's birthplace. A dramatic medieval backdrop rises above the modern marina and the Tanners' Canal where Pasteur's father worked, with beautiful tile-roofed and turreted stone houses clustered around the 16th-century church. Deep in a nearby cliff, the Grottes d'Osselle are thrilling, well-lit caves with fantastic rock formations, walkable for a mile-and-a-half round trip.

The valley of the river Saône is dotted with sleepy villages like Scey-sur-Saône and Ray-sur-Saône. At Champlitte's Musee Albert Demard, with its remarkable presentation of folk arts and implements, Jean-Christophe Demard showed me far-from-folksy scenic replicas of rural life in the time of his father, who organized the collection. 'It's not just about objects', he emphasized, 'it's about the people behind them.'

No place could be more like the France of 50 years ago than Pesmes. Its rue des Châteaux has six of them, four inhabited by the same families since the 12th century. The Château des Forges, beautifully converted by its architect owners, was once a cannonball factory for Louis XVI. At a cozy auberge on the river Ognon, the patronne served sumptuous country cooking: Fougerolles cherries with local charcuterie including Morteau sausage, a vast platter of the region's famed cheeses-Comté, Morbier, Mont d'Or, Mamirolle-and a light red Côtes du Jura. An earthier moment of peace and interior joy is hard to find.

For more information on Eastern France, call the France On Call Hotline at (202) 659-7779 or visit the web site at: www.francetourism.com

Taiwan: A Beacon of Democracy

Interview with Representative Jason C. Yuan

By Alan Dessoff

For the Republic of China on Taiwan (ROC), an island nation slightly larger than the state of Maryland, political and economic relationships with other countries are vital, particularly with the United States and the mainland People’s Republic of China (PRC). Both countries have played important roles in Taiwan’s history, and the nature of the relationships of all three countries with each other will be important in shaping Taiwan’s future.

Fostering Taiwan’s relationships with the U.S. is the mission of Representative Jason C. Yuan, who heads the Taipei Economic and Cultural Representative Office (TECRO) in the U.S., the equivalent of an embassy. The two countries have not maintained formal diplomatic ties since January 1, 1979, when the U.S. switched diplomatic recognition from the ROC to the PRC. But informally, through government and private-sector contacts, Yuan, in his post since August 2008, and with extensive previous diplomatic experience in the U.S. and elsewhere, knows how to effectively advance his country’s interests. He demonstrated that at the recent annual conference in Los Angeles of director generals, the equivalent of consulate generals, of TECRO’s 13 offices in the U.S. Each office covers the states in a region of the U.S., but Yuan, who coordinates them, emphasized that while they focus on Taiwan’s business in those regions, their principal responsibility is to “help the Washington office improve the U.S.-Taiwan relationship as a whole. In everything they do, they have to consider if it is good for the relationship.”

He believes it’s important, for example, that Taiwan’s regional representatives know the U.S. Senators and Representatives who represent the states and districts in their regions and ”why these political leaders are important to us,” It’s good for the relationship, he added, if Taiwan’s representatives “get closer” to the U.S. leaders and their constituents “where they live,” not just in Washington.

That played out last September, when Taiwan sent a large, agricultural buying mission to the U.S. After a visit to Capitol Hill, they traveled to key agricultural states, and Yuan briefed mission members on the political importance of those states and their Congressional representatives — including Montana, represented by Sen. Max Baucus, chairman of the Senate Finance Committee, and Indiana, whose Sen. Richard Lugar is the ranking Republican on the Senate Foreign Relations Committee.

It was important as well, Yuan said, for the U.S. legislators to understand how much Taiwan means to their states and districts economically in its purchases of soybeans, corn, wheat, barley and other agricultural commodities. “We try to let our American friends understand that we don’t just take from the U.S., we want to give business back. That is how to maintain a friendship,” Yuan asserted. The buying mission wound up spending $3.5 billion.

Maintaining a consistent relationship with the U.S., regardless of the U.S. political leadership, also is important to Taiwan. Yuan related that he recently called on former President George W. Bush. “I know the Bush family very well,” and when Bush was President, “maybe it was very difficult for him to receive us at his office. But it is easier for us to go to him now that he is a private citizen. We can review how he conducted his foreign policy towards Taiwan and mainland China and how we can use that to deal with the new Obama administration. That will be helpful to me and to them,” Yuan said.

He noted that it was Bush who characterized Taiwan as “a beacon of democracy in Asia and the world” in a congratulatory message that Bush sent to Ma Ying-jeou after Ma was elected Taiwan’s president in March 2008. Now the Obama administration “seems very happy” with the Bush administration’s position on U.S.-Taiwan-China policy under the Taiwan Relations Act, which Congress enacted in 1979, so continuity of that policy seems assured, Yuan said. He noted that President Obama, on his recent visit to China, reiterarated the US's continued support for the three communiques with China and for the Taiwan Relations Act' .”

Yuan said the Bush administration might have thought that Taiwan, under its previous president, Chen Shui-Bian, “pushed them a little too hard.” But under President Ma, Taiwan has tried to adjust its policy, which, Yuan said, now has three basic principles: “No unification, no independence, no use of force.”

“No unification” means Taiwan “will never consider itself part of China,” he explained. “No independence” means Taiwan will not become an independent republic. “We don’t want to take a risk that China will invade Taiwan,” Yuan said. Also, “from the U.S. standpoint, we don’t want the U.S. to fight in Taiwan’s streets. It’s already standing up in the Mideast and Korea.” And “no use of force” to settle sovereignty issues means simply “we want peace,” Yuan declared.

Ma wants the policy to lead eventually to a “win-win-win” situation for Taiwan, China and the U.S., Yuan said. The policy buttresses Ma’s strong feeling that “Taiwan can not stand alone; we need friendship internationally, most importantly from the U.S.,” Yuan said. Since Ma came into power, he not only has improved relations with mainland China but also has “won back trust and confidence from our friends in the U.S.,” Yuan said.

Meanwhile, he maintained that Taiwan’s relationship with China “has never been better in the last 30 years.” He cited dialogue underway between the countries, including three important bilateral meetings in 2008 and 2009, two of them in China and one in Taiwan. Differences between China’s communism and Taiwan’s democracy notwithstanding, “we have seen eye to eye,” and the results have included signed agreements on tourism, direct shipping, direct flights, postal service, food safety, financial cooperation, insurance and banking, Yuan said. “There even is a joint effort to fight terrorism and economic criminals. If they flee from Taiwan to China, China sends them back to us. We catch some of their criminals and send them back to China,” Yuan said.

Despite the basic ideological difference in the Taiwan-China relationship, Yuan suggested that the two countries are able to improve their relationship because they focus on economic issues, not politics. “We set aside political issues. Time eventually will have a solution for the political problem. We’ll wait until the time is ripe — maybe 2012, 2013, if we all are doing well economically, to maybe conduct more bilateral meetings on the political issue; to sit down and talk about either an eventual or temporary peace agreement between Taiwan and the mainland,” Yuan said. Even if the leaders of the two countries ultimately agree on that, he suggested that the issue of unification with China or independence for Taiwan might be left to “the younger generation,” which might have different opinions “when they are all grown up.”

Meanwhile, Yuan said President Ma “will present no surprises” while economic issues, including trade, dominate the relationship between the mainland, with its 1.3 billion people, and Taiwan with its 23 million. Already China has almost become Taiwan’s number one trading partner, Yuan said, and more than one million Taiwanese work in businesses in mainland China.

He acknowledged that the recent global economic downturn and financial crisis in the U.S. impacted Taiwan because it has no natural resources and its economy is based on exports and imports. While high-tech exports to the U.S. were “miserable” in the first half of 2009, more orders signaled improvement later in the year and exports and imports were up by double digits at year’s end. “That’s a good sign,” Yuan declared.

Although Taiwan grows rice, vegetables and fruits on its limited land, harvesting rice four time a year and exporting some of it to the U.S., it must rely on imports for other agricultural products, including meat. American beef became an issue when Mad Cow Disease was discovered in the U.S. and “we stopped for a while,” then reopened trade for boneless beef and recently signed an agreement to import bone-in beef from the U.S., Yuan said. He added that Taiwan also imports a lot of U.S. turkey.

Yuan pointed to Taiwan’s other economic strengths. Among them, it ranks fourth in the world in foreign exchange reserves, with more than $300 billion, behind only China, Japan and Russia. “I feel proud that our private sector is doing well in export-import and working on new ideas all the time. We have no choice. We are talking about survivability. Every day is survival,” Yuan said.

With a high individual savings rate, and a government guarantee of the safety of their money, Taiwan’s citizens are “pretty well off,” He explained. Also, the government implemented its own economic stimulus plan, providing $100 shopping vouchers to all 23 million of its people. “The economy is coming back,” he declared.

Every time he returns to Taiwan’s capital, Taipei, Yuan said, he is “amazed at how diligent and efficient the people are.” There are three shifts of workers in the country, and “people all set goals for themselves and work two or three jobs to fulfill their goals.”

As an example of workplace efficiency, he told how tailors provide visitors from the U.S. and elsewhere with custom-made suits and shirts, “with cuff-links, everything,” in less than 24 hours and at an “incredible” price. “The tailors rush to your hotel room to do the measurement. They give you two fittings in a day, and the next day you get a perfect suit to take home with you,” Juan said, noting that U.S. Sen. Orrin Hatch told him he got a suit that way on a visit to the capital. Yuan compared Taiwan’s way to the practice in the U.S. where, “no matter how much I want to spend, they say 'ok, come to my shop and pick out the material' and then you wait three weeks.”

Yuan reflects Taiwanese efficiency in his own work habits. With a staff of almost 1,000 employees to manage at the 13 TECRO offices, including 200 in Washington, “I am very busy,” he said. The home office is “very demanding; they don’t care how busy we are, we have to get answers for them. So it’s a tough job,” Yuan said. Accordingly, he skips most of the “glamour parties” and other Washington social events that usually attract ambassadors of other countries. “I don’t have time. All I do is make small luncheons and dinners where we talk business,” he said.

Business these days includes trying to gain a visa waiver to make it easier for Taiwanese students and others to come to the U.S. “We know the U.S. is our number one friend who wants to encourage more people to come, but they go to Japan, Canada, Australia and New Zealand because it is so difficult to come to the U.S., and once you get a visa and come in, immigration and customs are very strict,” Yuan said. But “we are the least dangerous people to Americans; even the Homeland Security people told me that.”

Also on his agenda are reaching agreements with the U.S. on extradition and a trade investment framework. In addition, Taiwan is seeking help from the U.S., Japan, Canada and other countries to allow it to participate in some international organizations like the United Nations’ World Health Organization and its decision-making body, the World Health Assembly. Taiwan lost its U.N. status in 1971, when the PRC became the official representative of China.

When severe acute respiratory syndrome (SARS) struck China badly, “we were kept in the dark so we could not help. If we were part of the WHA, we could help each other. Health is universal and we want to be part of it. This is nothing political,” Yuan emphasized. In May 2009, for the first time in 40 years, and with no objection from China, Taiwan was allowed to attend a WHO meeting as an observer.

Similarly, Taiwan wanted to participate in the U.N. Climate Change Conference in Copenhagen in December. “We asked the U.S., the United Nations, everybody, why not have Taiwan participate? This is nothing political. Everybody has to be involved,” he said.

Because of climate change, he continued, sea level has become “a big threat” to his island. A typhoon and heavy rains last August wiped out several villages and cost more than 650 lives and “we should share this experience with the international community. We need an early warning system to know if an earthquake or hurricane or typhoon is going to hit us,” Yuan said. “This is a legitimate request, and we can make a contribution, but if we are not part of the U.N. climate change, how can we help? We want more support from the U.S. and other major countries to be part of it.”

Further, he asserted, “it’s ridiculous” that Taiwan, with so many flights into and out of the country, is not part of the International Civil Aviation Organization. “This is a reasonable request but it takes time. Not just the U.S. alone or China alone can decide if we can be part of it. We have to get everybody’s support,” he said. “Hopefully, in a year or two, we will get some kind of status in the ICAO.” Becoming involved in climate change talks might take longer “because they just had the Copenhagen discussion, but you always set a goal. We think there is a good chance for us and it is one of our goals now,” Yuan said.

While the absence of full diplomatic ties with the U.S. is “a limitation” on what Taiwan can achieve in the international community, Yuan said it does not diminish the values Taiwan offers, particularly to U.S. and to China through relationships that will benefit all three countries. “The core value of our tie with the U.S. is democracy, and we are the best example to influence mainland China down the road because we share the same culture, same race and same traditions. There are one million Taiwanese living in China and so much intermarriage. That kind of influence and impact down the road will be tremendous,” Yuan declared.

In conclusion he pointed again to our common democracy as the bond holding the relationship together. “That is a reason that the U.S. can not give up Taiwan, a reason for the U.S. to promote Taiwan. We still consider the U.S. the most important country to us. We can easily trust the U.S., while it’s still a question how much we can trust China, a communist country. We love your system and we are grateful for the support of the U.S. for the past 60 years that has enabled us to stand tall. We are proud of ourselves, and I am very optimistic. As long as we never give up, I think we’re going to do well.”

Jost Van Dyke - A Tranquil Caribbean Retreat

By Patricia Keegan 

It started with friends around the kitchen table, in the dead of winter.

"Wouldn't it be great to escape from winter and 'Monica Mania' to a Caribbean island with nobody around?"

Everyone sighed in agreement with Diana's suggestion, but where would you find such a place?

Seven days later Diana called excitedly, "I have the perfect island, and it sounds ideal."

She had just been in Annapolis where she met John Klein, owner and developer of White Bay Villas on Jost Van Dyke in the British Virgin Islands. She was smitten with his description of the island and his custom designed villas. And he had a one week window of opportunity when the main Plantation Villa was free.

Soon we were on his website at www.jostvandyke.com. The site was a great enticement, with its lovely villas overlooking a pristine beach and aquamarine sea. We had found the answer. Five of us, after tallying our frequent flyer miles, struck a week from our calendars and flew from Washington to St. Thomas.

We arrived on different airlines, but the Delta, American and USAir flights all arrive about the same time. We took a taxi to Red Hook, at the the east end of St. Thomas, where we stocked up on a week of provisions. Across the street, a chartered water taxi waited to ferry us to our fantasy island.

It was evening as we made the 12-mile crossing from St. Thomas to Jost Van Dyke. Looking back on the churning sea in the wake of our fast-moving cabin cruiser, the lights of St. Thomas grew ever more distant. Ahead, through the moonlit darkness, we could see the outline of Jost, with hardly a light to be seen. Yes, we laughed, we were far from Washington, but had we been too extreme in wanting splendid isolation away from people - in this case, only 150 full time residents on a rugged tropical island seven miles long.

Great Harbor was quiet, the customs house had already closed, but in the distance we heard reggae music. Our skipper pointed to Foxy's Outdoor Restaurant and Bar, which we would soon discover was the island's epicenter, renowned throughout the Caribbean.

We were driven over a steep, rugged hill to the spacious and inviting Plantation Villa, largest of three secluded, magnificently-situated, Caribbean style villas.

The great room and kitchen are decorated with original murals depicting the island's culture. Three bathrooms and three bedrooms, each with its own verandah and patio furniture, offer a panoramic view of White Bay. We stood on the terrace absorbing the silence of the night; the dark sea, and the sky swarming with layers upon layers of stars. The sole reminder of the world we had left behind were the distant lights of St. Thomas.

What we saw in the darkness of night we liked even better with the arrival of a glorious morning. Spread before us was the blue sea, a sun-filled sky and a trail through the villa's papaya, banana and mango grove winding down to our own white sandy beach.

Fate was kind - among us was one fine chef who did not believe that toast and coffee were an adequate breakfast. For the next six days we not only enjoyed the panoramic view and ambience of dining on the terrace, but sumptuous meals worthy of a five-star hotel. To add to our pleasure, the villa had a CD player, and we enjoyed some of our favorite arias while imbibing the beauty spread before us. The TV was turned on just once and quickly turned off. What we were endeavoring to escape from was on no account going to catch up with us during this refreshing interlude.

From White Bay Villas we hiked down to the main street (just a sandy pedestrian trail) in Great Harbor, to visit the bakery, a small grocery, a couple of boutiques and Foxy's. We also rented one of three rental vehicles on the island.

We piled into our Jeep and set out to explore the Atlantic side of the island. We drove a few miles east, hiked through scrub brush, and reached the edge of the turbulent Atlantic - a dramatic contrast to the calm Caribbean. We had been warned not to climb too far over the rocks near the sea. Some adventurous risk takers had been swept away by powerful waves.

We were in search of the "Bubbly Pool," where 12-foot waves crash through a narrow gap between huge boulders, creating a torrent of effervescent bubbles within an idyllic pool tucked safely behind the rocks. We relaxed in the warm pool waiting for the wave. One moment it was like a small, benign whirlpool, then a wave would come crashing through the rocks, turning us upside down in a surge of bubbles. It was exhilarating for those of us who enjoy child's play.

On the drive back, we were tantalized by the aroma of freshly baked bread wafting our way from Harris' Place at the edge of Little Harbor. The owner, Mrs. Adina Jones, one of the sweetest ladies on the island, was baking bread and coconut cream pies. She invited me into her kitchen where dozens of pies and loaves of bread had just come from the large ovens.

Watching sailboats gliding across the horizon and hungry pelicans diving for fish, we were served crab meat salad sandwiches on warm, crusty bread with pie for dessert. It tasted like a banquet from heaven.

It doesn't take long to realize the island's essence is found in two enterprising characters - Foxy and Ivan. They provide the entertainment. In the morning you might find Foxy playing guitar at his outdoor restaurant with a repertoire ranging from Caribbean to his own, on-the-spot compositions. Described as a wild, warm, wonderful, wacky character; he calls himself the "happiest man alive." He sings about anything that comes to mind - Washington politics, the heat of the day, or the hometown of someone in the audience. He tells his audience how he found his wife.

"I couldn't find a girlfriend around here to save my life! So if a boat sailed in, and the captain had a gorgeous cook on board, I would try to get her to stay ashore with me. This would piss off the captains. One angry captain invited me aboard for dinner. He had one of them gorgeous cooks...anyway he gave me too much to drink, and he said I should stay the night and he would take me home in the morning. When I woke up, we were at sea."

"I asked the captain what's going on.

He said, 'You make everybody so mad trying to find a wife, so I'm taking you to look for a wife.'"

It's a long story. The ship takes him around the world. His audience listens attentively, some giggle, but most look intrigued. He is a master storyteller. Finally, there is an audible sigh of relief. He meets a girl, Tessa, in Gibraltar, sails her across the Atlantic to St. Barth's, gives her "a lobster dinner, two bottles of wine, and a fine time," then returns to Jost Van Dyke.

Foxy's has evening entertainment and several dinner specials, but no one misses the Friday night buffet. The harbor fills with sailboats, so make a reservation. The band starts at 10 p.m. and keeps everybody moving until the wee hours.

A more quiet, rustic hideaway is Ivan's Local Flavor Beach Bar, just a short walk down the beach from White Bay villas. Ivan Chinnery is not only the local herbalist, and a staunch conservationist, but owner and proprietor of this open-air restaurant and beach front campground. Campers from as far away as Australia mingle at Ivan's, share meals and songs, and unwind while immersed in natural beauty. One single mother from Baltimore said she had found "utopia" as she watched her two-year old daughter play on the beach. The mix of hippies, professionals, couples, young and old, seem to get along famously with each other and the ever-present, ever-smiling Ivan. There is always a song and a laugh to be found at Ivan's, especially in the impromptu, evening sing-alongs. In the 70's, Ivan's guitar playing helped make Foxy's famous. Now he enjoys playing and singing in his own place, especially with a fellow troubadour like Freddie, a guitar-playing camper whose singing always got his audience involved.

Strolling home along the beach to our villa on the hill, we savored the stirrings of gentle surf, the soothing din of nature unspoiled by sights or sounds of civilization, and the brilliance of the Milky Way in the inky blackness. It was a time to be grateful for the simplicity of time and place spent with friends at White Bay Villas and the refreshingly real people we met on Jost Van Dyke.

Check out Jost Van Dyke and White Bay Villas on the internet or call John Klein at (410) 626-7722.

Liberia – A Country of Firsts

By Alan Dessoff

From its flag with the familiar red-and-white stripes and blue field, but with a single star instead of 50, to the elevation of women in its society, including one who is now its president, Liberia —“land of the free”— has much in common with the United States. Founded in 1820 by freed slaves, and with its capital, Monrovia, named after U.S. President James Monroe, Liberia enjoys links with the U.S. that underscore and facilitate Nathaniel Barnes’ job as the African Republic’s Ambassador in Washington.

Barnes, who also serves as Liberia’s permanent representative to the United Nations, points to Liberia today as “the poster child on the continent” and “a country of firsts” as the first independent country in Africa and the first with a democratically elected female president.

But he acknowledges that Liberia has problems to overcome. Many are the legacy of a bloody civil war that ensued from 1989 to 1996, under the corrupt and ruthless President Charles Taylor, claiming the lives of more than 200,000 Liberians and displacing a million others into refugee camps in neighboring countries. The war left behind not only a ravaged country but also devastated the lives of many women and young girls who became the victims of rape. A documentary, “Pray the Devil Back to Hell,” chronicled on “Bill Moyers Journal,” airing on PBS on June 18, 2009, shed new light on the violent abuse of women in Liberia.

However, the war also brought about one of Liberia’s most acclaimed achievements, as women united and rose in defiance against their aggressor and began to take control of their lives. They conducted peaceful demonstrations and refused to have sex with their partners, tactics used successfully by women in ancient Greece.

Further, the political empowerment of women has brought them into the top levels of government, headed by President Ellen Johnson Sirleaf. In the wake of Taylor’s resignation and departure into exile in Nigeria in 2003 under intense U.S. and international pressure, Sirleaf was elected over an international soccer star in a run-off in 2005. Although there have continued to be “several ugly incidents” of violence against women, the country now has anti-rape legislation in place and a “fast legal process” to deal with offenders, Barnes says.

With “incredible support from the international community” and under President Sirleaf’s leadership, Liberia is making improvements fueled by “the permeation of hope,” Barnes says. “With the new government and the existence of peace and stability, there is incredible hope among Liberians that we will not allow this sort of self-mutilation, (the civil war), to happen again. When you get off the airplane in Monrovia and walk around, you can literally feel the vibrancy of hope,” Barnes declares.

Three years into fulfilling a six-year blueprint, the Sirleaf administration has adopted to lift the country -- “we are preparing ourselves for the future,” Barnes says. The blueprint, a poverty reduction strategy, was developed on four pillars: peace and security, governance and the rule of law, infrastructure and basic services, and economic revitalization.

With 10,000 international peace-keepers still in the country as an aftermath of the war, peace and security are largely assured, as are governance and the rule of law under a democratically elected government. According to the U.S. Department of State, Liberia’s political situation has remained stable since the 2005 elections, President Sirleaf is supported by “highly experienced and technically competent” senior officials, and “the public has more confidence in her administration than in any of its recent predecessors.”

Much of Liberia’s focus now is on the other two pillars of its strategy. In developing the blueprint in the first place—“a document unprecedented in our history,” Barnes says—the country went to its citizens in grass-roots forums in hamlets and villages as well as larger communities and asked what was important to them. The “recurring themes,” Barnes says, were a transportation network, education for their children, and good health care, and “we have made good progress in many of those areas.”

But much remains to be done. Although the government has approved legislation requiring free and compulsory education for all Liberian children—“a great law,” Barnes says—Liberia now faces the challenge of building schools and hiring and training teachers. “Because the war was so devastating, much of our infrastructure was destroyed,” he explains.

With “friends and supporters in the U.S.,” he continues, President Sirleaf established the Liberia Education Trust, a private initiative to raise money in the U.S. with specific goals: build 50 new schools, hire and train 500 teachers, and provide scholarships to 5,000 students, mostly girls. In its first three years, the Trust met those objectives, doubling the enrollment in primary and secondary schools, Barnes says. As for constructing new schools, that’s “as simple as the climate,” he says, noting that Liberia has just two seasons: rainy for six months, dry for six months. “So we have a very narrow window in which to build schools, roads, clinics, that sort of thing, but we are making great progress, primarily because we have received a lot of help from bilateral and unilateral and private partners,” he declares.,<./p>

Liberia also has made progress in health care. “We have been very effective in our vaccination campaign to just about eradicate polio,” Barnes says. But with one of the highest infant mortality rates in the world, “we have a serious problem with pre-natal and maternal health care,” he acknowledges, adding that malaria and various waterborne diseases also present challenges.

There are other challenges in restoring infrastructure and basic services. One is electric power, which was destroyed in the civil war but is coming back now. “Monrovia was in darkness for many years; people used private generators,” Barnes says. At the time, “one lone traffic light was functioning and children were fascinated by the changing red-yellow-green lights,” he says. Liberia is looking at hydro-electric, solar and wind power as long-term solutions, he says. The country also does not grow enough food “to feed ourselves,” Barnes says.

Economic revitalization, the fourth pillar of its strategy, also faces challenges. One of them is reducing the current 75 percent unemployment rate. Liberia, slightly larger than the state of Ohio, is “well endowed” with iron ore, gold, diamonds and minerals, and has the largest rubber plantation in the world, Barnes says, but its dense tropical rain forest—40 percent of West Africa’s rain forest—has been seriously depleted. “We need money from timber resources, and how to get that and maintain ecological responsibility is a challenge,” Barnes says. “We’re trying to find ways to use best practices to do that. People live in the forests and depend on them,” he says.

Liberia is “looking for investors from anywhere,” and “under the wonderful phenomenon of globalization, we can pick and chose who we want to do business with,” Barnes says. “Political ideology is secondary to serving Liberia’s fundamental national interests.” He points out that the Chinese government recently made a “significant investment” in Liberia, signing a $2.5 billion agreement to mine iron ore, and Liberia has another agreement with an Indian company. But the U.S. government investment so far is “not very significant” and “we want to find ways to improve American private sector investment,” Barnes asserts. “There is American interest; we just want to spur it,” he says.

He suggests that tourism is one opportunity for U.S. business interests, citing a $12 million investment by African-American businessman Robert L. Johnson, the founder of Black Entertainment Television (BET), in a new 4-star ocean villa resort that opened in Monrovia in June 2009. According to a report of the opening event by the Liberian government, Johnson, in his remarks, described a friendly business climate in Liberia and noted that it is easier doing business there than in most other countries. Barnes adds that Liberia has “wonderful beaches, great lagoons and lakes,” as well as a world-renowned culture of music and art, and an appealing cuisine, “depending on your palate.”

With “long and strong ties” between Liberia and the U.S., Liberia now enjoys “incredible support from Congress on both sides of the aisle,” Barnes says. While it seeks additional investment from the U.S., Barnes says his country recognizes that the U.S. government has “a pretty full plate to deal with,” including two wars and its own economic and health care issues.

As he pursues his principal goal in Washington—“to expand U.S. investment, particularly from the private sector”—Barnes says he also wants to improve collaboration of U.S. scientific and educational institutions with Liberian organizations “to build our research capacity; research is a springboard to development and Liberia can be an open laboratory.”

His third goal is “touching our diaspora in the U.S.,” estimated at 350,000 people. “The middle class in Liberia exists in the diaspora, mostly in the U.S.,” and it provides “significant financial contributions,” Barnes says. To engage this constituency, the Embassy has established a Diaspora Advisory Board comprised of Liberians and non-Liberians alike, including former U.S. Peace Corps volunteers who served in the country. The Board will serve as “a catalyst to leverage the diaspora,” including building a database of lawyers, teachers, doctors, engineers and other professionals and “getting them to go to Liberia,” Barnes says. He notes that there are more Liberian physicians in the U.S. than in Liberia.

Reaching this point in its post-war development has not been easy for Liberia, Barnes says, but overall, in the first three years of fulfilling its blueprint, the country has made “incredible progress” and the effort must continue. “Liberia is a wealthy country that had been poorly managed, with huge priorities but a low capacity to achieve them. Now, with our democracy and new freedom, there is enthusiasm. But we need to develop self-sufficiency and we don’t have the luxury of time,” he concludes.

Indonesia: Bali & Java

by Anne Kalosh 

Trickles of perspiration streaming down their brows, the old women, young couples and families with small children struggle up the stony path leading to nirvana. Vendors tail the dripping pilgrims, waiting for them to succumb to the sun and rent a big red and white parasol emblazoned with the Coca Cola logo.

Java the name conjures up exotic images of coffee, cloves, swaying palms, balmy nights. And Borobudur.

The steps grow steeper, but the faithful persist. They, like thousands before them, have trekked to the island of Java to climb Borobudur, one of the world's greatest Buddhist monuments.

It took a century, from 750 to 850 A.D., to hew this mandala of black stone that, from a distance, resembles a mound of dark meringue whipped into tiny peaks. Close up, each peak resembles a huge bell and conceals a larger than life sized statue of Buddha. The complex is a series of terraces linked by progressively steeper steps.

Borobudur was built by the Saliendra dynasty of Buddhist kings who ruled Central Java in Indonesia's 17,000 island chain until their overthrow by Hindus in the mid ninth century. Today, Java, like most of Indonesia, is largely Moslem.

The abandoned Borobudur slept for a thousand years, blanketed by lava and jungle vines, until unearthed last century and, in the 1980s, restored by UNESCO. Today, billboards along the road to the site proclaim it one of the seven wonders of the world.

'It doesn't belong to us but to the culture of the world,' says Agus, a university student who moonlights as a tour guide.

During our three hour bus ride south from Semarang, the north coast port where our cruise ship, Marco Polo, docked, to Borobudur, Agus prepared passengers from England, South Africa, Australia, Canada and the United States by teaching a few words of Indonesian.

'Selamat datang!' he grinned. Welcome!Bali & Java And, essential for this shopping minded crowd: 'Ini berapa harganya?' How much? When Agus tried to tell the passengers how to say 'cheap' and 'expensive,' one man growled, 'We won't be able to use the word 'cheap.'' But, for visitors bearing dollars and those who relish bargaining, Indonesia is inexpensive. While clothing stitched from hand made batik fabric in the big tourist stores can run into the hundreds of dollars, bargaining in small shops and with vendors can net dresses and shirts for $10.

The day trip to Borobudur is a featured excursion included in the price of our Orient Lines' cruise, so we travel in a police escorted convoy of buses carrying most of the ship's 800 passengers. Few cruise liners visit Java; we're so rare that folks look with astonishment as we zip past a rolling green countryside dotted with cacao plantations, towering bamboo fronds and silver domed mosques.

We notice that only some women on this largely Moslem island wear veils. Religious tolerance is an Indonesian practice, Agus explains. 'Some women cover their heads, some don't. We don't have a problem with that.' On the road, Agus briefed us about the life of Buddha but, arriving at Borobudur, many passengers are astonished by scenes depicted in hundreds of detailed reliefs: Buddha's renouncing his noble birth to wander for years in search of enlightenment, his numerous incarnations and his achievement of nirvana.

Respectful visitors climb the monument in a clockwise direction starting from the east gate. Agus says faithful Buddhists don't go beyond a certain level; the higher terraces are the realm of monks. But most visitors today must not be Buddhists for they seem bent on reaching the enormous, bell shaped stupa crowning Borobudur. On the way, they pass more than 500 Buddha images.

I crawl along with the pilgrims that stop at one stupa and stretch their arms through the latticework to touch the figure inside. As my fingertips brush the cool stone Buddha, I make a wish.

Trudging upwards, I come to the summit but, instead of a spiritual spot, I am met by a fairground atmosphere. It's too crowded for the umbrellas. Children are racing around, groups of students are snapping pictures and grannies are plopped down in slivers of shadows, pumping away with bamboo fans. I spot few Westerners; most of the cruise passengers have opted to stay at the lower altitudes.

They have missed an enchanting view. The surrounding countryside looks like Eden. The undulating plains are forested in coconut palms, banana trees and flowering shrubs stretching to the horizon where dark hills shimmer in the midday heat.

Back at the monument's base, vendors press close, hawking shadow puppets, carved Barong masks, t shirts and big floppy, batik hats that fold to pocket size. Some tourists panic, but I feel calm. Vendors don't persist when I look them in the eye, smile, and say 'No, thank you.' When a boy tries to sell me a hat, I point out that I already have one. 'Have two,' he urges. 'But I have only one head,' I protest. He laughs and leaves me for better prospects.

But some of my fellow travelers get prickly. One woman scolds a postcard vendor. 'You silly, silly man. When I say no, I mean no.' He responds by lowering his price. 'One dollar?'

During my last visit to Indonesia, 10 years ago, I encountered few street sellers. At the time, my work made me a frequent visitor to Bali and it seemed paradisiacal, with fishermen casting their nets from sweeping beaches, emerald rice terraces inching up mountainsides, graceful women balancing offerings of fruit and flowers on their heads, and the chime of gamelans lilting on the breeze.

A decade later, these idyllic snapshots still exist. I flew from Singapore to the international airport south of Denpasar, the Balinese capital, and stayed a few days at the nearby Inter Continental Resort at Jimbaran Bay. For me, the big resort hotels and tour buses are new to the picture. I was at the Inter Continental with other Marco Polo passengers on a pre cruise package before joining the ship anchored off Padangbai, two hours' drive up the coast. Orient markets itself as 'the destination specialist,' with programs focusing more on the places visited than on the ship. My cruise to Southeast Asia and the Java Sea, ending in Singapore, included hotel stays at ports of embarkation and debarkation. 'I chose this because I like to set foot on land for a few days,' says Helen, a retired school teacher from Michigan who photographs everything and admits that, back home, slide shows of her far flung travels are in big demand. Bali's Jimbaran Bay is tourist territory, but still lovely. The Inter Continental, modeled on the ancient Balinese imperial style, is a lush, dream like oasis of flowers and fountains, swans and swimming pools. Despite its allures, I was eager to venture out and explore. Denpasar's narrow lanes are clogged with cars, a sign of the prosperity that tourism has brought. Traditional markets are being swallowed up by shopping centers, and satay stands by KFCs. But when it comes to the Balinese people's interactions with visitors, there is no culture clash. The Balinese are naturally friendly and hospitable and adapt to new ways without abandoning their courtesy, self discipline, tolerance and strong sense of community.

'The Hindus have a saying, 'There is only one soul,'' explains Sayang, a tour guide for 22 years whose name means 'Honey.' 'Why the other countries fight? Because of ego. Why you hit the other person? You only hurt yourself.'

Most Balinese are Hindus and, by all appearances, devout. Thousands of temples dot the countryside; every family, Sayang says, has its own, in addition to the bigger community and regional temples. Stone statues depicting manifestations of the supreme deity are decorated with hibiscus flowers and dressed in checked cloth tied with yellow sashes.

Offerings containing a pinch of rice, bits of food, flowers and incense are placed in alcoves at the entrance to homes, at temples, near statues, over wells and beside rice fields. Offerings for evil spirits rest on the ground; those for good spirits are elevated. I step around one lying on the courtyard of a jewelry store and spot another resting on a sewing machine at a batik shop.

It's hard to travel around the island without meeting a religious procession or seeing families on their way to a temple, decked out in colorful finery. Women in long batik skirts balance towering offerings on their heads. Men wear sarongs and knot a scarf around their heads. By the roadside, I met a couple on their way to a temple celebration with their two small children. The mother has spent an hour assembling a two foot high crown of apples, eggs and rice cakes to deliver as an offering. As we talk, a girl passes balancing her offering of a whole cooked chicken splayed across a bed of fruits and flowers.

The big Balinese families of the past are rare now that the government encourages no more than two children. 'When we have only a small family, we are free to go everywhere,' says our guide, Sayang. 'We Hindus have a saying: 'The more legs you have, the harder it is to move.'' I admire a large emerald ring he wears. He bought it last year on a trip to India, a reward for a job that sometimes keeps him working seven days a week.

Outside the spectacularly carved temple of Pura Beji, worshippers stream in on foot, by moped, in the beds of pickup trucks and in buses. I smell incense and hear the lovely, subdued tones of the gamelan. In the countryside, traditional ways prevail. Most Balinese work as farmers, harvesting cloves used in cigarettes or growing vanilla, tapioca, coconuts, pineapples and other juicy tropical fruits ranging from prickly red rambutan to melon sized durian that smells like a sewer but tastes heavenly.

Rice is by far the most important crop, growing year round in irrigated terraces spilling down the mountainous countryside. Sayang says that, thanks to the green revolution, Bali produces enough rice to not only meet the huge local demand, but to export.

Art, music and dance are a natural part of Balinese life. In the community of Ubud, painters work on shady terraces and galleries burst with scenes of village and religious life. Other towns are known for their stone carvers, wood carvers, jewelers or batik artists.

All over the island, people work hard, but life seems sweet. As coconut palms sway against a deep blue sky filled with fluffy clouds, villagers bathe in languid streams and boys fish in a temple pool blanketed with flowering lily pads. A woman waist deep in an irrigation ditch looks up from her laundry, a white duck paddling at her elbow.

She could ignore our passing minibus, but instead she flashes a brilliant, toothy grin.

Getting there: Orient Lines offers cruise tours of varying duration to the Far East and Indonesia, as well as other destinations around the globe, on the 22,000 ton, 800 passenger Marco Polo. For a brochure, call (800) 333 7300. Singapore Airlines is a preferred Orient Lines carrier, flying passengers from New York (JFK), San Francisco and Los Angeles to Singapore and on to 10 cities in Indonesia. (800) 742 3333.

UN: Long Road to Copenhagen

By Bill Miller

In the vernacular used during the Kentucky Derby, they are rounding the turn for home and heading for the finish line. As the nations of the world prepare for the United Nations Climate Change Conference in Copenhagen, Denmark, from December 7-18, it may be helpful to look in the rear view mirror to see how various groups, especially the United Nations, have helped the world to arrive at this historic and critical point, and to speculate as to what might happen at the conference.

Let’s speculate as to what may happen: First, the major barriers to an international environmental agreement to encompass the Kyoto Protocol and establish more specific criteria will be the potentially huge cost, both financially and in terms of potential job-loss. A UN study recently estimated that between $500-$600 billion will be needed each year for the next ten years to help develop the infrastructure in developing countries, including China and India, to meet their energy needs from renewable resources, such as solar. Some economists predict it could be a staggering $1 trillion.

An off-setting study by the U.S. National Academy of Sciences shows the detrimental costs of using coal and oil peaked at over $120 billion per year in health care costs, primarily due to deaths from air pollution.

Second, the recent Bangkok climate change talks ended on a sour note, with the divide between the rich and poor countries even wider than before. However, just over the past few days, the developing countries have softened their insistence for free access to low-carbon technologies from developed countries.

Both UN Secretary General Ban Ki-moon and Yvo de Boer, the UN’s top climate change official, optimistically predicted that Copenhagen will not create a new international treaty to replace the Kyoto Protocol; however, it will produce the political framework for cutting greenhouse gas emissions.

Third, according to Carol Browner, a key climate and energy official in the Obama Administration, the US will not have a specific climate and energy bill for President Obama to sign before the Copenhagen Conference. Regardless, the US still has a major role to play in committing itself to being a world leader in combating climate change. The hope for this US leadership, not only in the environmental area, was one of the reasons Obama received the Nobel Peace Prize.

Fourth, overpopulation is extremely important, yet it has gotten short shrift in the discussions. As the population swells from 6.8 billion to at least 9 billion by 2050, the majority of poor people aspire to improve their standard of living—which will consume more energy and finite natural resources. Each person—even if living in a poor country—expands the carbon footprint. A desired goal, which will NOT happen in Copenhagen, would be for the enlightened world leaders to promote an official “2.1 Children per Family Program” worldwide. Although there is neither political spine nor courage to address this issue, eventually it will happen since the earth cannot support a spiraling population. Efforts to defeat climate change will not succeed without some focus on population expansion.

A few years ago, the climate change debate did not seem to have sufficient traction to become one of the top three international crises, along with the financial collapse and terrorism. There have been a multitude of players who helped encourage the dialogue and catapult climate change to the top of the agenda. Some include former US VP Al Gore with his “Inconvenient Truth” documentary, environmentalists, businesses, faith-based groups, service organizations, such as Rotary International, governmental leaders, environmentally-oriented public administrator academicians and practitioners and many others. Two of the most important players were the UN System and the United Nations Secretary General Ban Ki-moon, who have lubricated the environmental dialogue process and glued it together when it was on the verge of collapse. Just a few of the UN initiatives:

-- In 1988 the United Nations World Meteorological Organization and the UN Environment Program established the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC), which co-shared the 2007 Nobel Peace Prize with Al Gore. The IPCC was charged to scientifically study climate change and its potential environmental and socio-economic consequences. The IPCC, composed of 2,000 eminent scientists from over 130 countries, issued four hard hitting scientific reports that contained a litany of potential doomsday scenarios ranging from violent storms, melting icebergs, rising sea levels, loss of species, massive droughts, desertification, and destruction of rain forests.

-- In 1992, the UN Conference on Environment and Development (UNCED) expanded the sustainable development concept, issued Agenda 21 (an international blueprint to help conserve resources) and adopted the UN Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC), a major international treaty to reduce global warming and confront the challenges of climate change.

-- In 1995, the IPCC’s Second Assessment Report, indicating more global warming, paved the way for the Adoption of the Kyoto Protocol in 1997, which set binding targets to reduce greenhouse gas emissions for industrialized countries by 5% between 2008-2012. The US Government never signed-on to the Kyoto Protocol and, during the Bush Administration, actively worked to undermine it.

-- Another key player was UN Secretary General (SG) Ban Ki-moon. Early on in his tenure, Ban--who has received very little credit for his leadership-- took a hands-on approach in elevating this issue. For starters, he helped guide the IPCC’s fourth report that paved the way for a substantive 2007 climate conference in Bali, Indonesia. He diplomatically confronted and goaded the US and China, the two major polluters, to get involved in finding a solution. Incidentally, Ban had to fly to Bali to help rescue a conference that teetered on the brink of abject failure.

After the successful Bali Conference, the UN brought 100 environmental ministers to Monaco to continue the process and launched the Climate Neutral Network that highlighted the “best practices” in confronting global warming.

Ban Ki-moon was the first UN Secretary General to lead a delegation to Antarctica and Brazil to experience firsthand the melting of the glaciers and the disappearing rain forest, which is often compared to being the “lungs” of the earth.

Most recently, SG Ban went to Norway and the Arctic Circle to witness first hand the devastating effects of global warming and the “collapsing, not slowly melting” of the glaciers. Unfortunately, the main stream media paid little or no attention to the visit by the world’s chief diplomat. Imagine how many media would have been in-tow if Barack Obama had gone to the Arctic? Poor media coverage of Ban’s trip is not only a major problem in enhancing the discussion about climate change, but it is prevalent as to how the media cover, or do not cover, life-and-death issues at the UN.

SG Ban has spearheaded a campaign to encourage governments to “Seal the Deal” in Copenhagen. The campaign promotes environmental and financial assistance to the poorest countries, encourages developed countries to sign-on to ambitious greenhouse reduction targets, works with developing countries to cut emissions, lays out financing and technological support for countries that are most vulnerable due to climate change and establishes an accountable institutional and equitable governance structure to channel resources efficiently to developing countries.

Ban Ki-moon, the only one of eight of the UN Secretaries General, has an advanced degree in public administration, which may provide him a balanced approach to problem-solving. Ban is a low-keyed, behind-the-scenes negotiator who is committed, knowledgeable and tenacious in achieving his goal. Over his nearly three years as SG, climate change has been one of his top priorities. Without his tenacity, it is highly probable that Copenhagen would not be taking place.

UN Secretary General Ban Ki-moon said, “The climate change negotiations are proceeding at a glacial speed. The world’s glaciers are now melting faster than human progress to protect them—and us.” Hopefully, Ban will have uttered a reverse self-fulfilling prophecy for Copenhagen participants. Time is running out.

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Bill Miller, former Chair of the UN Association of the USA's Council of Chapter and Division Presidents, is the accredited Washington International journalist covering the UN and is the Producer/Moderator of “Global Connections Television.”

The Nascent Obama Foreign Policy Doctrine

By Patricia Keegan

At no time in history has an American President been faced with such a stark mountain of ever mounting complexities. In this new era of the invisible enemy springing from discontented populations, we can't leave ourselves without new and creative ways to solve these unprecedented challenges.

President Obama has been criticized for deliberating too long on the agonizing decision of sending more troops to Afghanistan. If he sends more troops and the war continues for years without the expected results, he will be blamed. On the other hand, if he doesn't send troops and Afghanistan or Pakistan fall into the hands of terrorists, the responsibility will fall heavily on his shoulders. So what is the 44th President of the United States supposed to do?

What is taking place is the precise calibration of a rational, intelligent approach seeking a balanced response to the invisible enemy's irrational aggression. Moving away from old habits of throwing our blood and treasure at problems that can't be solved around the table, is like Sisyphus climbing the mountain and continually slipping back. We will continue to slip and slide over and over again, until a new thinking embeds itself on the world's conciousness.

Obama won the Noble Peace Prize because he has given many corners of the world hope. The prize also reflects the need the world has, at this moment, to look for calm, thoughtful, and visionary leadership. Although the timing is off, and a 'new vision' for the world might have caught on more quickly if it had been developed soon after the Cold War ended, it wasn't then, and now we are dealing with the consequences.

In the nascent Obama Doctrine, Obama articulates a new framework where the world works together to solve some of the dire problems we now confront. This doctrine substitutes 'democracy' with 'dignity promotion' by endeavoring to fix the conditions of misery that breed anti-Americanism and prevent liberty, justice, and prosperity from taking root. In a recent speech to the Foreign Relations Committee, Secretary of State Hillary Clinton said, ''We will lead by inducing a greater cooperation among a greater number of actors and reducing competition, tilting the balance away from a multi-polar world to a multi-partner world.'

Even the thought of a 'multi-partner' world is huge. It gives us all hope that when nations come together as non-competitors, desiring and working for common goals i.e., the elimination of nuclear weapons, combating climate change, fighting disease, and addressing our lagging resources, almost anything can be accomplished. Place this vision in juxtaposition to the alternative --- a world that finds it impossible to work cooperatively will stay on a fast track to the ruination of our planet. What is needed to make our common cause of cooperation become a reality is TRUST!

Although he hasn't yet said it, as an idealist, Obama can conceive of a world without war. He plants the seeds for a more peaceful world by reaching out to diverse groups, believing in dialogue, standing strong against those who are set in the rigidity of Cold War thinking, and by appearing honest and trustworthy. But how do we build that trust, the missing piece of the equation, in order to help these seeds flourish.

Speaking in Pakistan on October 28th, in the wake of a bomb explosion which killed more than 100 women and children and injured 200 innocent people, Clinton courageously emphasized cooperation between countries, 'Not only government to government but additional partnerships, in the private sector, universities, nongovernmental organizations, civil society groups, religious institutions and most importantly, people to people.'

These are fine words, but under the circumstances, an immense task. Yet, if the future of our children's and grandchildren's world depends on doing something now, we have got to start somewhere.

If the people to people idea were to somehow be put into operation, how would we start, and where would we start? There is a momentum here that can't be lost. Could Georgetown University partner with one of Islamabad's universities, like the National University of Modern Languages, which teaches many languages and tries to bring people together. Could the Washington National Cathedral partner with Islamabad's Faisal Mosque in Islamabad?

The foundation for trust must start now. We hear the slogan, 'Winning the hearts and minds of people,' over and over, but it rings false to me. Becoming interested in the hearts and minds of people takes knowledge of their culture and mores -- respecting their way of life without trying to impose our values on them. It is not a game that someone wins, rather it can be a discovery that is immensely rewarding.

In this new century, peace movements will continue at the grassroots level, taking the shape of the times we are living in. This is the age of IT which keeps pushing us toward a stronger interconnectidness. We have the technology and the means of communicating with friends in other lands -- now let's make it even more meaningful. Today's youth could make an enormous impact by becoming interested in the potential for greater understanding between cultures in the very tools they carry. A purpose-filled Facebook or Twitter communication, driven by a passionate goal of ending war and preserving our small planet, is just one way of contributing to a calmer world.

One thing we can be sure of is that within the family unit, which exists in billions all over the world, there lives a common bond that deplores war, wants to protect their children and live in dignity and peace.

International Cooperation for Climate Change Mitigation

Taiwan’s Proposals and Visions

By Stephen Shu-hung Shen, Minister, Taiwan EPA

Climate change caused by global warming that is induced by human activity is one of the toughest challenges the world is facing. Through more than two decades of international cooperation, Taiwan has been successfully introducing advanced policies and technologies into its environmental protection infrastructure. As a result, Taiwan’s environment has significantly improved, the public’s environmental awareness has been heightened, and in 2008 carbon dioxide emissions have decreased for the first time. In 2008, Taiwan’s total carbon dioxide emission from energy sectors was less than 257 million metric tons, which marked a 4.4% decrease compared to the previous year, while the per capita emission dropped 4.8% to 11.2 metric tons.

Taiwan’s environmental protection experience is now available to be shared with other nations. Taiwan intends to work with the international community to combat climate change through bilateral and multilateral cooperation in order to safeguard environmental and human health at the national, regional and global levels. The Taiwan Environmental Protection Administration (Taiwan EPA) therefore proposes two international cooperation schemes on climate change mitigation. They are the Overseas Carbon Reduction Cooperation Program and Taiwan’s Initiative: International Cooperation on Efficient Utilization of Global Fossil Fuels and Biomass Energy.

Taiwan President Ma Ying-jeou considers climate change mitigation a top priority of his administration. In 2008, the Taiwan government announced voluntary carbon dioxide reduction targets: for the period between 2016 and 2020, the goal is to return to 2008 emission levels; and by 2050, to return to 50% of 2000 levels. Keeping Taiwan’s unique political situation in mind, the Taiwan EPA is actively seeking cooperation with United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) Annex I nations to help emitting entities in Taiwan meet their reduction requirements and to assist developing nations in cutting their carbon emissions via clean development. The Taiwan EPA will facilitate Taiwan’s emitting entities in establishing corporations in Annex I nations; through these overseas corporations, emitting entities will make investments in clean development projects in developing nations that cut carbon emissions under the UNFCCC guidelines. The carbon credits thus acquired will then be used to offset emissions in Taiwan. Via cooperation with Annex I and developing nations, Taiwan expects to reach the previously outlined reduction targets, as well as helping to reduce global carbon emissions.

To cut the global carbon emission efficiently, Taiwan proposes a global initiative so that the most efficient way of utilizing global fossil and biomass energy can be realized in 40 years through international cooperation. Considering that pure electric vehicles possess the highest energy efficiency at least four times that of conventional vehicles, and using low-temperature torrefaction to convert bio-fuel to eco-coal for cogeneration is the most efficient way of harnessing biomass energy, Taiwan would like to present a vision regarding international cooperation on efficient utilization of global fossil fuel and biomass energy for electricity generation and heat supply. The initiative involves the following: Power plants should be located in the most heat demanding temperate and frigid zones, while the tropical and subtropical zones are supplied by transmitted electricity. Such a design can produce the highest energy efficiency globally. Future fossil fuels and eco-coal produced in the tropical and subtropical zones are transported to the temperate and frigid zones for cogeneration to provide the world with electricity including powering electric vehicles. Through this proposed global cooperation, the most efficient way of energy utilization can be reached.

In the future, Taiwan’s international cooperation will focus on continuously introducing advanced environmental management and technology to improve local environmental quality; to continue the sharing of Taiwan’s experience and expertise in order to assist other nations in solving environmental problems; to participate in international organizations and conferences which set environmental guidelines; to continue to follow the international trends in protecting the Earth’s environment; and to promote the Overseas Carbon Reduction

Cooperation Project and Taiwan’s Initiative: International Cooperation on Efficient Utilization of Global Fossil and Biomass Energy in order to mitigate climate change. Taiwan expects that local, regional and global environmental protection tasks will be accelerated through bilateral and multilateral cooperation in safeguarding environmental quality, human health and sustainable development.

Stephen Shu-hung Shen, the Minister of the Environmental Protection Agency of Taiwan, is one of the most prominent scholars and policymakers of environmental protection and planning in Taiwan. For over 25 years he has held senior positions with the Environmental Protection Agency of Taiwan, the National Science Council of Taiwan. He received his doctorate in Chemical Engineering from the National Taiwan University in 1982.

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