Caneel Bay Resort: St. John, US Virgin Islands

St. John’s Earthly Paradise

By Patricia Keegan

Caneel Bay Rosewood Resort occupies a magnificent 170-acre peninsula that has to be one of the most idyllic and picturesque spots in the world. In a class by itself, it seems as close to paradise as one can come on earth, and yet, it may not be everyone’s cup of tea.

If there is a need for glitzy night clubs or the routine of television and telephones, Caneel Bay is lost in another era. It lies in semi-slumber in total harmony with the tranquil, unspoiled beauty of uncommercialized St. John, the National Park Island of the U.S. Virgin Islands.

Caneel’s modern ferry boat churns the lapis water into pure white foam on the 40-minute ride from St. Thomas. You sip complimentary champagne as the truly “virgin” island of St. John draws closer and radiant colors of the flowers come into view. As you step from the boat, you are surrounded by poinsettia, hibiscus and bougainvillea together with coconut palms and African tulip trees, their colors bursting into one great welcoming bouquet.

The ferry drops guests within a few feet of the lobby veranda where a hostess welcomes you with a brief orientation and escorts you to your room.

Guest rooms are situated in discreet, low-profile clusters situated for privacy, and all opening directly on to one of the seven dreamlike, white powdery beaches. Cottages are built in the rich wood of the region with plantation fans, hand-woven fabrics, and simple elegant furnishings under high cathedral ceilings forming a very inviting décor. Bathrooms are spacious and well-equipped with all the extra amenities including Caneel’s own formula of moisturizers and suntan lotion. Each room has a welcoming bottle of the famous Virgin Island’s Cruzan Rum. The seven beaches of Caneel range from long strands of white sand to pocket coves where it seems no one has been before. The waters are so pristine you can see your shadow on the sea floor.

There are many activities to pursue at every hour of the day including diving, snorkeling sailing and hiking. If you run out of reading material there is a little library near the office with an interesting selection of paperbacks. An eleven-court tennis park on the estate attracts tennis enthusiasts either early in the morning or at night when the sun goes down. To absorb and connect with the serenity of Caneel, take a stroll through the tropical gardens under sugar, date and coconut palms with lush green hills in the background and wonderful fragrances drifting on soft trade winds.

Caneel Bay Resort has three restaurants which have contributed to the resort’s reputation as a gourmand’s fantasy in a world class setting The elegant Turtle Bay Estate House is the more formal of the three, where guests can enjoy a classic menu with a lot of originality in a beautifully appointed dining-room This is the place to celebrate the joie de vivre with service and presentation that is both efficient and personable, and guests are treated to Caribbean style warmth, touched with humor. Afternoon tea and evening cocktails are served on the verandah. A welcoming cocktail party hosted by congenial resort manager, Nikolay Hotze, provides guests an opportunity to meet and share stories. It was surprising to meet other guests from Washington DC -- a family of three generations with a beautiful two month-old baby girl.

Breakfast and lunch buffets are also served on this lovely verandah in high season. The Estate House has its own climate controlled wine room with an impressive collection of over 10,000 bottles.

The Beach Terrace, situated along the ocean front, is fabulous for casual dining serving both breakfast and lunch. Here there is an endless buffet where every item you could possibly desire on a Caribbean menu is available -- fresh fruit, tantalizing desserts and luscious chocolate concoctions. Keeping in mind that all meals at Caneel Bay are prepared with health and fitness in mind, one feels free to indulge!

In the evening the Equator Restaurant, the old 18th century Sugar Mill, offers a wonderful setting lit only by candles and moonlight, and filled with the tantalizing aroma of charbroiled steak and lobster. Finding a table near the outer wall of the mill, with its expansive view across the water all the way to the lights of the island of St. Thomas, is finding the perfect environment to enjoy a romantic dinner in the most tranquil setting.

Absorbing the beauty of Caneel without television or telephone, under turquoise, pollution-free skies, leaves little doubt as to why so many celebreties, including Presidents and movie stars, have made it their island retreat. It simply becomes an ongoing romance with Nature.

Managed by Rosewood Resorts since 1993, the property was first opened in the 1930’s by the West Indian Co. Limited. In 1952 Laurence Rockefeller purchased the small resort development and donated it to Jackson Hole Preserve, Inc. This nonprofit, conservation organization was founded and supported by the Rockefeller family. Rockresorts Inc. managed the resort and all profits were devoted to maintenance, operation and improvement of the hotel and to furthering Jackson Hole Preserve’s other conservation activities.

The Rockefellers also recognized the supreme eligibility of the beautiful, unspoiled island of St. John as a National Park, and purchased more than 5,000 acres, over half the island. This property was donated to the federal government, and legislation creating the U.S. Virgin Islands National park was enacted in 1956. The park has remained a sanctuary in which wildlife, natural beauty and historical sights are preserved.

Caneel Bay offers the Modified American Plan (MAP) which includes breakfast, lunch and dinner. Plans are 50% off for children 5 to 12 years old, and there is no charge for children 4 and under.

For more information, please call 340-776-6111 or e-mail caneel@rosewoodhotels.com. For reservations call 888-ROSEWOOD.

Turks and Caicos - Parrot Cay Resort

The Key to Tranquility

By Patricia Keegan

Tranquility is a musical, happy word denoting a convergence of a soul at peace with its environment. When it's relinquished or forgotten, it may not be easy to find again, but it's importance to well-being is immense.

It's a breezy day at Parrot Cay, bunches of palm trees bend and dance in the wind. A few billowing clouds traipse slowly across the blue sky. In the foreground of the long horizon, white waves break across a turquoise sea. The weather has been a bit stormy, making everything feel vitally alive. After three full days wrapped in lush vegetation and long stretches of communing with nature -- including nights lit by a full moon -- we see Parrot Cay as a great escape from the hazards of 2009, especially as the temperature drops.

The escape starts on the yacht that was waiting on the private dock in Providenciales for my husband and I. Once you step aboard, it speeds across waters of translucent greens and blues that appear untouched since time began. The five star, 1,000 acre, private island resort lies 35 minutes by high speed boat north of Providenciales. The cruiser is comfortable as it springs gracefully across turbulent waves. The captain tells us that it had been a somewhat stormy week but things were settling down again.

Approaching the resort we see the faint outline of a few buildings hidden among palm trees. Even at a distance it evokes a tangible peace. First impressions of the hotel are of quiet elegance. The spacious lobby with its shiny marble floor and cushioned couches is low key. While checking in guests are offered a refreshing drink.

Parrot Cay, considered the ultimate in private islands, was the creation of Christina Ong, one of Asia's style icons and the châtelaine of a fashion empire that includes ownership of the licenses for Jill Sander and Issey Miyake in Asia, Armani in Australia, and Donna Karen in Britain. It was actually, Christina's daughter, Melissa, who discovered this lush, unspoiled island while on a diving trip in 1997. Mother and daughter also own a group of upscale properties known as the COMO Hotels and Resorts. (COMO is an acronym for Christina Ong Melissa Ong.) There are unique COMO properties in London, Bangkok, Bhutan, Bali and Cocoa Island in the Maldives. Mrs Ong's husband, B. S. Ong, also an expert on hotels, is a real estate baron. He owns five Four Seasons and is a major investor in Four Seasons Hotels .

Throughout the resort there are Asian influences which add not only the feminine touch, but an uncluttered open effect. Our room 104, designed in natural dark wood, with white walls, and a king-sized four poster bed, exudes simplicity. The large bathroom has an open shower, Asian style, which, although it looks like it could cause a flood, is easily controlled. Each room has a large terrace The wide terrace with round table and two chairs has an added settee with soft mattress filled with pillows. The terrace is an ideal spot to read, write, watch the sunset or have a candlelight dinner, all the while enjoying the pure freshness of each lovely day.

Besides being a superb escape to wallow in tranquility, at the heart of the resorts success is the fine cuisine. At first I had wondered how it would be on a private island, totally dependent on the resort menu. However, arriving on the island famished, I ordered a sandwich and French fries at the Lotus Restaurant and, to my delight, I enjoyed the best quality fries I've had in a long time. This simple lunch, besides being tasty and satisfying, gave me a sense of optimism that the care invested in its quality and preparation was a good omen for more complex meals. I was never disappointed.

Breakfast became something to look forward to with its large assortments of freshly squeezed juices, home baked pastries, luscious Greek yogurt and wide selection of hot items. I can't imagine a morning without my “Parrot Cay” juice -- the delicious, tangy carrot/beet/passion fruit combo. One important aspect of Parrot Cay's menu -- from a sandwich to a five course dinner at the Terrace Restaurant -- is the knowledge that behind the scenes there is a high standard set for quality, with an overall orientation toward health and well being.

Crawford White, the general manager, informed me, without even a smile, that heads of lettuce arrive at Parrot Cay on their own plane. When I picked up a thick, crisp lettuce leaf -- I took him seriously.

Excellent ingredients alone don't spell success; the creativity comes from the great kitchen team led by Anna Rossel, who arrived on the island from Australia in July, 2007. She had previously been head chef at the Umo Paro in Bhuton. (One of the the COMO group's assets is the ability to broaden staff experience by moving personnel from one hotel to another. Most of the dining-room service was executed by Asian staff.)

In speaking with Anna, she modestly gives all the credit to her team, and to Amanda Gale in the New York office, who basically creates and updates the menu every quarter. Anna uses similar ingredients to what she prepared in Bhutan: high quality, contemporary, clean cut produce. A farmer in North Caicos is now supplying the resort with tomatoes, herbs and arugula grown in open fields, other products come from as far away as New Zealand and North Carolina.

Outside of the first class beach and surroundings,a major attraction for guests at Parrot Cay is the Shambala Spa. The spa's concept is holistic and Eastern inspired, where a visitor may come to experience a retreat from the pressures of the world and feel the stress melting away. The setting is spectacular, overlooking the island's wetlands. The Spa occupies a series of breezy, wooden pavilions, cooled by offshore breezes with an outdoor swimming pool, saunas and whirlpool. The emphasis is placed on restoring the body to its natural balance through yoga, massage, meditation, and a special menu designed to promote health and well-being. Each day the schedule changes, with varied activities which include complimentary lectures by expert Asian therapists on various aspects of Yoga.

Many guests also come for the diving and snorkeling which takes them on explorations of the archipelago comprising the Turks and Caicos (meaning string of islands). It stretches across 103 sq. miles of the Atlantic. The resort has developed full and half day excursions combining land and water based activities.

One of my highlights of the stay was the enchanting open air Tiki Huts, with mattress and pillows. Set on a incline on the beach where you were safely sheltered from direct UVA rays. It became a four day morning ritual we would put our beach paraphernalia in a Tiki Hut, then run down, dive into turquoise water, enjoy a refreshing swim, go sailing in a catamaran and return to a good book. I my case it was Daniel Silva's, “The Confessor,” which I found in the resort's library, and which was totally absorbing for a few days.

If Parrot Cay becomes one of those perfect spots where, at the point of departure, you feel as if exiting a chunk of paradise -- there is always the option of buying a villa and living next door to Christie Brinkley, Donna Karen and other celebrities, OR, more realistically, making plans to return every season.

For more information visit Parrot Cay website at parrotcay.como.bz or dial direct at 649-946-7788.

UN Under Siege

By Bill Miller

Never in the 66-year history of the UN has the US ever needed the international organization more, and vice-versa.

The UN is in the forefront in promoting peace in dangerous areas of the world, providing humanitarian assistance, implementing economic and social development activities, shepherding climate change efforts and enhancing human rights worldwide, all of which are important to US foreign policy and the overall strength of the country.

As philosopher and poet George Santanya said, “Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it.” From all indications, the perennial onslaught of the UN is well underway by several members of the US Congress who seem determined to repeat previous mistakes.

In the mid-80s and early 90s, the US dramatically damaged its credibility, international leadership, and security by refusing to pay its legal assessments until the UN complied with its demands to make internal management reforms and reduce the US assessment from 25 to 22%, as well as lower the peacekeeping assessment to 25%. In 1999, Senator Joe Biden (D-RI) and Senator Jesse Helms (R-NC), both of whom recognized that the US was injuring itself, cobbled together an agreement that agreed to pay back over $900 million of the $1.2 billion bill.

At the end of 2010, according to the UN, the US owes a total outstanding assessed (mandatory) $736.2 million.

In the last session of Congress, Rep. Ron Paul (R.-Texas) introduced H.R. 1146, the American Sovereignty Restoration Act of 2009 to repeal the United Nations Participation Act of 1945, which is a legally-binding treaty adopted by the US Senate that the US must honor in paying its legal UN dues.

Currently, Ileana Ros-Lehtinen (R-Fla.), the new House Foreign Affairs Committee Chairwoman, threatened to withhold payments ostensibly to coerce the United Nations to cut costs and improve its management.

Ros-Lehtinen also indicated that other legislation will improve oversight of UN agencies and defund the Human Rights Council because it is viewed as anti-Israel and includes nations guilty of human rights violations.

As Congress deliberates, it should remember how the UN provides assistance to the US and the world:

First, one of the major goals of the UN is to eliminate the scourge of war, which it attempts to do by helping to reduce conflicts around the world. Since 1948, the UN has fielded over 60 peacekeeping missions that saved lives, averted wars, and helped bring democracy to dozens of countries. Over 120,000 military, police, and civilian peacekeepers are now deployed in 14 operations around the world, from Haiti to the Democratic Republic of the Congo to Darfur to East Timor. Only 87 personnel are Americans in uniform. Recent findings on peacekeeping show:
-- The total cost of UN peacekeeping dues to the US is equivalent to what we spend in a few days in Iraq and Afghanistan, a small investment for a major return;
-- A Rand Think Tank Report reported that when the UN can conduct a peacekeeping mission, it is more successful than when the US military takes on a unilateral peacekeeping assignment; 
-- A US Government Accountability Office (GAO) study indicated that UN peacekeeping costs US taxpayers only one-eighth of what a US military mission would cost. 
Although the US pays 25% of the peacekeeping’s $8 billion budget, it is still a bargain because other countries contribute most of the troops, which keeps Americans out of harm’s way, and pay 75% of the total.

Second, the UN is critical to help foster democracy by providing expertise and oversight and to strengthen fragile state institutions through peace building efforts. The UN has developed free elections in such dangerous areas as El Salvador, Cambodia, Haiti, Afghanistan, Iraq and dozens more.

Third, UN humanitarian agencies are available to move quickly to a disaster zone to provide life-saving food, shelter, and medicine. In 2010 when floods devastated Pakistan, the World Food Program helped feed 6.9 million people. Similar efforts are underway in Haiti, Chad, Bolivia and Libya.

Fourth, the UN has not only been the US’s number one partner in fighting terrorism and Al Qaeda, it also combats the flow of illegal drugs, is the backbone of reconstruction efforts in Iraq and Afghanistan and works to halt the proliferation of nuclear weapons.

Just last week the world was shocked and outraged when Terry Jones, the minister of a fringe, fundamentalist church in Florida, burned a copy of the Islamic holy book, the Quran. This act spurred an attack by rioting Afghans who overran a UN office in Northern Afghanistan, killing at least 10 workers and beheading two of the victims.

A few other examples of UN support for US policies include: in 2009, President Obama chaired a major Security Council summit that unanimously adopted far-reaching, binding steps to reduce nuclear dangers. The UN’s International Atomic Energy Agency has exposed Iran and North Korea’s nuclear violations. Additionally, the UN Security Council imposed the toughest sanctions that Iran and North Korea have ever confronted.

Fifth, the UN has been the driving force behind developing the lifesaving Millennium Development Goals. These logical and quantifiable goals, which have targets to be achieved by the year 2015, focus on reducing abject poverty by 50%, providing universal primary school education, promoting gender equality and empowering women, reducing child mortality, improving maternal health, combating HIV/AIDS, malaria and other diseases, ensuring environmental sustainability and developing a global partnership for development. Depending upon the country and the region, several goals are on-track to be achieved -- whereas, others are not.

Regarding the sustainable development goal of the Millennium Development Goals, the UN, primarily through establishing the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change and conducting its international environmental conferences, has moved the climate change discussion to center stage.

Sixth, UN agencies develop international standards and regulations. For example, the Universal Postal Union (UPU) sets the rules for international mail among its 190 member countries, the International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) sets standards for air travel, the International Maritime Organization (IMO) helps to make the seas more secure and the World Meteorological Organization is pivotal to move weather information around the world. Airlines, shipping companies and people worldwide directly benefit from these services.

Lastly, the UN is a place where countries convene to promote universal human rights and condemn the world's worst atrocities. The UN General Assembly, with US leadership, has condemned Iran, Myanmar, and North Korea’s human rights abuses by large vote margins, and just recently voted to toss Libya off of the Human Rights Council. The Security Council set up the legal machinery for a 'no-fly zone' over Libya and referred Moammar Gadhafi and his inner circle for possible crimes against humanity, to the International Criminal Court, a highly-unprecedented move that only occurred against Omar Al-bashir, president of Sudan.

UN Women, a new agency, is just coming on-line to focus attention on assisting and empowering women to play stronger more productive roles in their families and communities. Studies have consistently shown that women play a tremendous role in every community, even in ones where they may not enjoy the equal rights or benefits of men.

The UN has improved its internal management quite dramatically over the past 12 years. Arguably, although the UN should continue internal reforms, many UN programs are more cost-effective, less wasteful and more efficient than some US Government programs, such as FEMA’s mismanagement in the wake of Hurricane Katrina and the Iraqi Economic Assistance Project where tens of billions of dollars were misspent or stolen, not to mention the Defense Department which has billions of dollars of waste.

For the past 66 years, since the UN was founded, public opinion polls have consistently indicated that the vast majority (a recent poll was at 65%) of the US public wants the American government to work through international bodies, primarily the UN, in dealing with the myriad of intractable international issues and problems. Another recent poll showed that 72% want the US to pay its dues on time and in full to the UN.

In a recent speech, Ambassador Susan Rice, Permanent US Representative to the UN, laid out how much it costs when she reported, “Out of every tax dollar…34 cents goes to Social Security and Medicare, 22 cents to national security and our amazing military, and a nickel to paying interest on the national debt. Just one-tenth of a single penny goes to pay our UN dues.”

Members of Congress should keep in mind that the UN is not a one-world government, it does not infringe on American sovereignty, it does not have the power to tax America, and it does not have a fleet of secret black helicopters, nor a standing army, poised to swoop in on Washington, DC to take over the government.

Although the latter was misinformation disseminated primarily by the John Birch Society, some Members of Congress still subscribe to this bogus conspiracy theory. Freshman Senator Rand Paul (R-KY) recently put out a frightening and erroneous screed as to how the UN Small Arms Treaty would ostensibly infringe on the Second Amendment and could lead to arms control in the US, which is totally fallacious.

There are several truisms that persist: the UN is not a perfect organization, but it has become much more accountable; the UN is in the US’s interest and helps the US achieve many foreign policy goals; the US earns more off of the UN than it pays in legal dues; the US is not paying its fair share at 22% of the budget (it should be closer to 28% according to a fair and equitable formula); and the world needs a strong, effective UN.

Governments at all levels are gearing up to cut back on expenditures as they strive to balance their budgets. The UN, undoubtedly, will suffer reductions in some agencies. The pragmatic UN Secretary General Ban Ki-moon has requested that the UN incorporate a 3 percent reduction in its budget.

Humorist and author Mark Twain once said, “Get your facts first, then you can distort them as you please.”

Hopefully, Congress will only focus on the facts for the sake of the US and the world. Even with its flaws, the UN is absolutely critical to the success of many US foreign policies, is a bargain for the services it provides and if the UN disappeared today, it would have to be created tomorrow. Former Secretary of State Madeleine Albright has said that the UN is not perfect, but it is indispensable. Are these not words of wisdom for the US Congress?

_____________

Bill Miller, former Chair of the UN Association of the USA's Council of Chapter and Division Presidents, is the accredited Washington International journalist covering the UN and is the Producer/Moderator of “Global Connections Television.”

Taiwan’s Flower Power

By Johnny C. Chiang, Minister, Government Information Office

Since November 2010, Taipei has played host to the Taipei International Flora Expo, an event sanctioned by one of the world’s leading horticultural bodies, the International Association of Horticultural Producers (AIPH). More than 1,600 plant species and 3,300 cultivars are on show at the expo and some 30 million plants are expected to be used during the six-month-long event, including myriad indigenous and locally grown flora.

As visitors from Taiwan and the rest of the world are discovering, however, there are more than flowers on display. The beauty of Taiwanese culture is highlighted through thousands of scheduled cultural performances, and local achievements in horticulture, science and environmental protection can also be seen.

Each of the four exhibition areas and 14 individual exhibition pavilions, for example, is built on the green principle of “reduce, reuse and recycle.” Eight existing buildings were repurposed for the event, while new structures marry green building standards and innovative design. In the case of the EcoArk, or Pavilion of New Fashion, homegrown cutting-edge engineering has turned 1.5 million plastic bottles into the world’s first large-scale recycled-plastic building. The EcoArk also features the use of natural ventilation, daylight and LED lighting in order to cut electricity consumption, as well as solar and wind-power systems to generate its own electricity. National Geographic Channel has seen fit to feature the pioneering structure in a program due to premiere at the end of March.

On top of this, all 91.8 hectares of the expo’s grounds have been seamlessly integrated within one of the most densely populated cities in the history of the Flora Expo and the city government took the initiative to transform an additional 350 public and privately owned sites into green spaces throughout the city.

Subtle and Successful

The interiors of the pavilions are no less impressive. The wildly popular Pavilion of Dreams, for example, features more than two dozen of Taiwan’s pioneering technologies including paper-thin audio speakers, naked-eye 3-D displays and a 360-degree circular theater. The key to the pavilion’s success, however, is that the technology serves a breathtaking artistic vision.

Such displays are exciting, in part because they have so exceeded expectations. It is as if Taiwan’s designers have come of age “overnight,” although in fact, this “design revolution” has been quietly developing for years. All in all, local designers, planners, horticulturalists, engineers and researchers have contributed to perhaps the most advanced AIPH-sanctioned expo to date.

The public response to this effort speaks volumes. By early March, the event had seen some 5.4 million attendees and expo-fever is reaching well beyond the capital city. In fact, a number of pavilions are so popular that the Taipei City Government has decided to reopen several of them after the expo ends on April 25.

Cultural Development, Soft Power

This kind of success does not happen easily or by chance. It is the result of careful planning, skill and hard work by the event organizers, but it represents something even greater. It is a testament to the cultural development of Taiwanese society, long known for its high-tech sector and economic progress, but less so for its social and artistic attributes. Yet these are intrinsic to the success of high-profile events.

As such, the expo is a good example of Taiwan’s soft power in the international community because it also showcases the nation’s free and open society in which social progress, individual liberty and respect for the rule of law are valued. Artistic and cultural development flourish in an atmosphere of openness and tolerance, and amid economic prosperity, high levels of education and respect for human rights. All these are readily seen in today’s Republic of China, the world’s first Chinese democracy, and are ably shared with the world through such high-profile international events.

Little wonder that the city of Taipei has welcomed every opportunity to share its happiness in hosting the AIPH-expo, which is a first for Taiwan.

Taiwan in Full Bloom

All this innovation and success has not gone unnoticed. In mid-February, an Economist Intelligence Unit report ranked Taipei one of Asia’s greenest cities. AIPH president Doeke Faber also praised the expo as “truly unique” for its emphasis on environmental concerns, and noted the speed with which it took shape — Taipei City produced its world-class expo in four years when it usually takes host cities 10 years to do so.

The people of the Republic of China (Taiwan) should be proud of the nation’s accomplishment in carrying off yet another international-level event with expertise and aplomb. Along with a sea of spring flowers, it seems that artistry, technology and culture are blooming in Taiwan.

For Taiwan news, editorials, feature articles and more, please go to Taiwan Today.

Tribute Meets the Challenge of the Panama Canal

By James Finley

Tuesday, May 13, 10:15 pm

The anticipation, combined with the heat, made it hard to fall asleep. I definitely wasn’t nervous. Anxious may even be overstating it, but a combination of nerves and excitement thinking of the next morning’s events made the previous two days of my adventure at sea in Panama seem like a blur.

There is something offsetting to arrive in a foreign country half awake in the middle of the night. When my sister and I arrived in Panama City at 1:10 am we were both a little out of it. I awoke hastily to complete customs forms and inadvertently messed up by filling out one family form -- for which you need to be husband and wife, not brother and sister.

After traversing customs I noticed the Panama airport was on a par with the finest in the world: LCD screens displaying arrivals and departures, customary horseshoe shaped baggage claim, even the airport bar, with unhappy servers, average food and inflated prices all had an air of familiarity. The scenic skyline of the city in the distance drew immediate comparison to Miami, perhaps only bigger. The roads to the hotel were fully paved, well lit, and clearly marked. We even stopped at a 24 hour grocery store to pick up late night snacks. While Panama is still a developing country, Panama City was unlike any Latin American city I had ever visited.

The hotel was pleasant, the Country Inn in the Balboa district, with central air conditioning. I am hopelessly American when it comes to my ever present desire for cold air and iced drinks. Throughout my travels one of my first stops when I get back to the States is the simple pleasure of a Seven Eleven soda fountain. The hotel is located canal-front with incredible views of the passing ships silhouetted against the lush green landscape, with the Bridge of the Americas cutting across the sky. The size and frequency of the ships is astounding, any hour of the day a floating strip mall cruises past, the global economy never in fuller view.

When we asked our cab driver for a good lunch spot in Old Town, he said Casablanca with no hesitation. Now I know why. We sat in the heart of Bolivar square, in the old town, mesmerized by the classical European architecture of the square, surrounded by a chapel, hotels, restaurants and wine bars. My mom swore she could be in Italy; we all agreed. I drank an Atlas, a Panamanian beer, and wouldn’t have cared if the food ever arrived. When it did I was surprised, impressed and happy -- I went with the waitress’s recommendation. The menu translated “shrimp with hot sauce”, however, what came out were four huge shrimp (heads still on -- a little gross, but I handled it -- in a sweet, delectable garlic sauce that finished with a spicy kick. My food was delicious, as were the chicken and beef skewers the others at the table ordered.

After lunch we walked through Old Town, seeing the presidential palace, national theater, and classic Victorian architecture next to facades of crumbling buildings. For the first time in Panama we saw glimpses of the poverty Latin America often displays, though we witnessed no begging in the streets, nor aggressive roadside vendors.

Returning to the hotel, we waited for the call that would define the trip; our approval to sail through the Panama Canal. The Panama Canal is the most scrutinized waterway in the world, the process of getting a time allotment to cross is exacting. The inspector visited our boat, a 58 ft. sloop. He measured bow to stern, port to starboard, and asked questions about every lever, switch and toilet seat.

Like most Panamanians we encountered, the inspector was very pleasant and helpful, but the Canal process is not a matter to be taken lightly. When we found out we were approved and assigned a time that worked out for all the traveling parties involved, I was relieved. My Mom was thrilled; her months of planning were actually going to work out. She literally jumped around for about 10 minutes shouting “We get to go!” It was Monday night and Tribute, our sailboat, was set to cross the canal at 7:30 am Wednesday morning.

Tuesday consisted of paying the necessary fees in accordance with the ACP (Panama Canal Authority), some relaxing by the pool and a trip to the Miraflores locks and museum. Built in 1914, the canal is an impressive feat of engineering, often dubbed the Eighth Wonder of the World. To watch a ship rise 30 feet in 10 minutes is a sight to behold, I also got a preview of my future duties as a line handler.

Every vessel that goes through the canal must take an advisor to oversee the vessel through the canal. The captain still controls the boat, in our case my mom’s husband Neil, though the advisor gives all instructions and ultimately has the final say. To assist in the process, specifically of going through the locks, four line handlers are hired. The line handlers job is to take the ropes (lines) thrown onto the boat in the locks and successfully secure them to the boat, giving it stability as thousands of gallons of water flood the lock allowing the 30 ft. rise or drop. Typically line handlers are experienced, local men. In our case we had three experienced, local guys, and me. No wonder I couldn’t sleep.

Wednesday, May 14, 6:04 pm

The initial disappointment was severe; we were all under the opinion that we would make it through the canal early in the morning. Visions of hot water showers and a meal on terra firma, danced in our heads. Our day got off to an early start; Neil picked up our line handlers at the dock of Playita de Amador at 6:30 am. Our advisor arrived at the boat around 7:30, and all parties were pleased to hear we had been allotted a time of 9:00 am to cross the first set of locks, Miraflores.

The line handlers consisted of Junior, Luis, Tim, and me. Junior and Tim have a combined 50 years of experience working on the canal; Luis was in his first year of canal work though he has crossed the canal as a line handler at least 10 times. The advisor, Rudolfo, attended the US Merchant Marine Academy. He works full time on the canal as a tug boat operator, and on his days off works as an advisor. Only later would I come to realize how valuable Rudlofo’s knowledge of tug boats would be.

I was nervous approaching the first set of locks -- massive concrete structures that look like nautical prisons, especially once you are locked inside by a set of gates forty ft. high. Line handling is grunt work, not much mental prowess involved, though a good arm workout. A line is thrown down from the locks, tied to a line on the boat, and then pulled back up to the lock. The idea is to keep the line taught holding the boat steady as the water floods into the lock. The boat we shared the Miraflores lock with was massive, the Ocean Prelate, a British ship in transit from South Korea. The lock measures roughly 110 feet side to side, the Ocean Prelatemeasured 106. This ship was the size of my high school, thousands and thousands of pounds of grain shoved onto its steel hull, and I was holding a rope making sure Tribute and the Ocean Prelate didn’t high five. My nerves were warranted!

The first set of locks went well, a series of two raising us from Pacific sea level to the Miraflores Lake, and we entered the lake intent on passing the Ocean Prelate. We maintained the highest speed we could in the narrow lake, five knots, passing freighters, tankers, cargo ships and a Panamanian navy ship. We successfully got in front of the Prelate and got into the Pedro Miguel lock for a noon passage. The 200 foot lock was occupied with just us and a tugboat; we tied directly onto the tug on our port side. I didn’t even get to handle a line.

From the Pedro Miguel we crossed the narrowest part of the canal, the Culebra Cut. The Culebra Cut was the hardest section of the canal to build. It was here hundreds of men lost their lives during construction; setbacks were constant due to the steep grade of the surrounding land. Motoring through the cut, we reached a speed of over eight knots, a fine speed for a sailboat of our size. We were able to maintain this speed for sometime, continuing as we entered Gatun Lake. Gatun Lake was the largest man made lake ever built until 1936, and the panorama is astounding. My sister Bonnie said “maybe emerald or teal green, I have never seen water that color before.”

While the depth of the channel is at least 45 feet, we were never more than 50 yards from the jungle lined shore; trees, bushes, swamp grasses, flowers and the occasional floating log. Outside of the buoyed channel Rudolfo pointed out the arbors sin muerto, or the trees that wouldn’t die. Any venture out of the channel would cause disastrous results; the water between the shore and buoys was littered with the arbors sin muerto; trees rooted in the ground, peaking slightly above the water line. Contact with just one root could render Tribute inoperable.

We got into the Banana Channel, a narrow stretch through Gatun Lake where ships larger than 80 ft. cannot enter. At this point Neil wanted a break. He asked me to steer, and I happily obliged. Since we were under power, required throughout the canal regardless of sails, I knew I could handle it, though Banana Channel was the most challenging stretch of water I ever navigated. The course curved left and right, with a particularly hairy right turn, close to 60 degrees, that I was slow to react to. The boat sped ahead at 8.3 knots, and I was headed straight for an island if I didn’t hit the arbors sin muerto first. I kind of freaked out. Prior to this turn I had caressed the wheel and all turns had been smooth. This turn was jerky, the way people drive in video games with no consequences. Serendipitously, the course straightened out and I was able to regain control. We eased back to full speed ahead.

Approaching Gatun locks, we were surrounded by the normal cadre of massive boats; some at anchor while a few motored in neutral. Rudolfo commented that one large Dutch ship, the Belmark, had two tugboats next to it. As we entered the clearing of the anchorage, Rudolfo radioed the lock station, but the return transmission was inaudible. He tried again, same result. He said, “I have a bad feeling he was telling me we would not make passage until the morning.”

Rudolfo’s hearing was correct, as we motored closer to the locks Gatun station informed us there was one more Pacific crossing and there was no room for us. Sure enough, Rudolfo explained, the Belmark would cross with the two tugboats. If the Belmark had one tugboat we would cross as well; with two there was no room for Tribute.

That leaves me here, tied to a mooring point somewhere in the middle of the Panamanian jungle, some 20 miles from the Atlantic and 30 from the Pacific. Our location is beautiful, more lush green landscape with freshwater for swimming. I dove in the water heedless of my sister's warning screams of lurking crocodiles. The fears are real, both Rudlofo and my fellow line handlers confirmed they have seen los crocos in these waters. My swim was quick. Sitting on the boat we can hear the throaty screams of the howler monkeys, a cacophony of birds chirping, and the dull buzz of cicadas and crickets. Within sight of our mooring point are three freighters, surely (fingers crossed) one of which we will share a lock with tomorrow.

Panama has been exceptionally impressive, though there have been reminders of how little control we have and how the way of life is different here. My first reminder came Tuesday when I got into a cab. My mom and sister sat in the back or they might have made us get out. When the driver, Tony, started the van there was no key in the ignition, he simply grabbed an electrical box below the steering column and rubbed some wires together. I chose discretion rather than questioning; at best this was how Tony started his van, at worst, Tony was stealing this van. Those were questions for which I did not want the answers.

The lack of control was cemented today when Rudolfo said, “We are not going through today, tomorrow probably.” Our initial reaction was disappointment, and as Americans regimented to schedules, we were dumbfounded and slightly pissed off. Within a few minutes we realized things were beyond our control, best to enjoy it.

I am not sure who gets my bed tonight, since Junior, Luis, Tim and I are now all bunkmates. I also don’t know what the plan is after dinner, since it may be hard to fall asleep at 7:45 pm; the discussed options have been dvds, charades or cards. The hard part will be handling the language barrier. I do know I have been stuck worse places. Tonight, in this Panamanian jungle, I am listening to howler monkeys, and can watch the sun set against a backdrop of vibrant greenery glowing from the lights of the ocean liners. The disappointment is long gone, the night has been embraced, and I can’t wait to play charades with Junior. Sometimes giving up control is the best idea.

Thursday, May 15, 11:11 am

I have never been stranded on a dessert island -- though I did get lost at Wild World once as a kid – but I can understand the feeling of desperation that must set in. Last night when we were told we would not cross the Gatun locks we were assured of the first north bound passage, probably another early morning with our advisor arriving at 7 am. Advisors do not stay the night with the boat as line handlers do, and we bid farewell to Rudolfo yesterday. Before Rudolfo left the ACP radioed to let us know 7 am wasn’t happening, more likely 11 am. It is now 11:15 am and we were told we should have an advisor by 12:30 pm.

We watch every small motorboat in the harbor in hope of spotting our advisor. Just the thought of our advisor coming aboard and leading us to the Atlantic was a pleasant vision. At this point real plans are in jeopardy; my sister and I are on the red-eye out of Panama City and back to DC tonight at midnight. The drive back to Panama City is at least 90 minutes. Add to that the three hours still left to finish canal transversal and time is becoming precious. We are not yet at a crisis point, though I definitely predict some restless moments ahead.

While waiting we went for a refreshing swim, though it was quickly shut down by the ACP as they sternly told us not to return to the water (los crocos). In the meantime I sit and sweat on the deck. I am through with both Esquire and Vanity Fair; I have no choice but to return to the uber-serious text of Guns, Germs & Steel. I continue to watch each boat with the hopeful eyes of Gilligan escaping his island, minus the dopey hat or a perky Mary Anne to keep me company.

Thursday, May 15, 5:15 pm

We made it, we actually made it. My feelings are a cocktail of relief, exhaustion, excitement and wonder. After dropping off the line handlers at the Panama Yacht Club in Colon (imagine the roughest parts of Baltimore with palm trees), reality set in that I crossed the Panama Canal.

The descent to the Atlantic did not mirror the peaceful journey we took the day before, where a nice boat ride was briefly interrupted by a few locks. The Atlantic passage puts the smaller vessels in front of the large ones, and we shared all three Gatun locks with a US Navy cargo ship, the Cape Knox of Norfolk. Our new advisor, William, a dead ringer for Terrell Owens, explained we would enter the lock before the giant grey ship. Watching the Knox creep into the lock and approach our stern at a snails pace reminded me of a scene from Star Wars. Hans Solo and his Millenium Falcon are captured by Darth Vader; theFalcon is slowly brought into the Empire’s colossal starship. Now imagine Tribute as the Falcon only with no Jedi mind tricks to save us, just me holding a rope.

As the Knox moved closer, the currents in the lock stirred, becoming violent as the Knox drew ever closer. The water threw Tribute about, and my starboard stern line position took the brunt of the punishment. Perhaps a cruel twist of fate, perhaps intentional slight by my fellow line handlers, I later learned my position is generally regarded as the hardest line to handle on smaller vessels descending the canal. My lack of experience, nor particular strength, no doubt aided the turbulence.

The uproar in the locks only grew as we descended; Gatun Locks consists of three consecutive locks with the final opening into the Caribbean Sea. The lower the boats get the choppier the water, as the salt water of the Caribbean merges with the fresh of the locks. Both the second and third lock required me to use every pound on my 190 lb frame, leveraging my body to pull the line ever tighter as the boat dropped with the 30 feet of water. At times my body was almost parallel to the boat, pulling with just my arms, a distant memory of the Pacific locks. Junior once had to assist me, and for the third and final lock I used some science to my advantage and ran my rope through a wench.

By the time the gate opened on the final lock any euphoric feeling was absent, just relief and exhaustion. The exercise was slightly more than an hour; the physical toll was taxing, not to mention the fear of harming my family or Neil’s boat. Once Neil pushed the throttle to full speed, and we were back out on the open water, I realized the accomplishment and allowed some minor mental accolades. As William disembarked the ship (he actually just jumped onto another boat in the middle of the channel -- these dudes are crazy), he made a point to tell me how good I did, and that he would go through with me again. Perhaps it was lip service, but I’m buying it. Later my mom and Neil told me how proud they were, which was nice, though William’s words mean more.

We entered The Flats, where ships anchor as they approach from the Atlantic side and await southern passage through the canal, and I remembered my first encounter with the Grand Canyon. I’ll never forget how shocked I was at the magnitude and vastness of the Canyon, much as I will never forget the amount of and enormity of the ships waiting for southern passage. They were too many to count, huge ships in every direction on the horizon. Oil tankers from Yemen, car carriers from Korea, a rusted out cargo ship from Liberia; the huge ships ubiquitous, the nations of origin like a UN meeting.

The Caribbean water was a turquoise I had seen before and was happy to see again; the wind blew and the sun came through a few clouds. We had made it, I had done my part, and I will never forget it.

Portugal: Sardine Heaven

The Feast of St. Anthony

By Jacqueline Harmon Butler

Looking out the window of a music store in Lisbon, Portugal, I laughed out loud watching a passing parade of vintage convertible cars progressing along Avenue Liberdade.  They were filled with brides of all sizes, shapes and ages, dressed in all their bridal finery. The storeowner told me they were the Brides of St. Anthony, and it was part of the saint's feast day traditions  He said the city hall traditionally hosts the bridal couples for free if they are poor. 

I was in Lisbon to celebrate the Feast of St. Anthony and had begun the day by attending Mass at his church.  I made my way slowly through the crowd to the front altar and found a golden and crystal reliquary on display.  On closer examination, I noted that some sort of bone was inside. I later found out that this was part of the saint's right forearm.

In the front lobby of the church was a small gift shop, but what really caught my eye was a group of women selling little bread rolls about the size of golf balls.  People were pushing and shoving to make their purchase.  As I watched, I noted that many of the women went back into the church and pressed the bread against a glass covered portrait of the saint. Then I noticed that several women were scribbling little messages on slips of paper, folding them up and sticking them into the frame around the portrait. Naturally, I followed suit and wrote down a special prayer, dutifully folded it up and tucked it into the frame along with my bread ball.

The tradition of 'St. Anthony's Bread' dates back to 1263 when a child drowned in the Brenta River near the Basilica of St. Anthony in Padua. The mother went to St. Anthony and promised that if her child were restored to life, she would give to the poor an amount of wheat equal to the weight of her child. Of course her son was saved, and her promise was kept. 'St. Anthony's Bread,' then, is the promise of giving alms in return for a favor asked of God through St. Anthony's intercession.

Music enthusiasts eager to hear fado, the emotion-laden, dramatic music particular to Portugal are likely to find an image of Anthony right behind the fadista (singer) and instrumentalists. Fado came long after Anthony, but its major theme is nostalgia and longing for what is lost and for what has never been gained. Anthony fits right into this scene.

Learning about, and taking part in, these wonderful customs was fun, and I left the church to see what else I could discover about St. Anthony.

To say that Anthony left Portugal behind minimizes his ancestry. The man who became known to many as Anthony of Padua was Portuguese. He was a spiritual seaman, seeking new lands of the soul, just as other Portuguese explorers ventured into unknown waters. He had the broad world view of a discoverer and became a fearless missionary -- traveling first to Morocco and then through southern France and northern Italy on foot.

While in Rimini, on the Adriatic coast of Italy, he encountered difficulty in getting the local population to listen. Somewhat dejected, he went down to the shore, where the river Ariminus runs into the sea, and began to speak to the fishes.

No sooner had he spoken a few words when suddenly a great a multitude of fishes, both small and great, approached the bank on which he stood.  All the fishes kept their heads out of the water, and seemed to be looking attentively on St Anthony's face; all were ranged in perfect order and most peacefully, the smaller ones in front near the bank, then the bigger ones, and last of all, were the water was deeper, the largest.

As he continued speaking, the fish began to open their mouths and bow their heads, endeavoring as much as was in their power to express their reverence. The people of the city, hearing of the miracle, made haste to go and witness it.

I had heard that sardines represented those miraculous fish and were an important part of the festivities, so I thought I'd have some for lunch.  I went into a nice restaurant almost salivating thinking of the tasty fish.  Alas, the mater'd almost sneered as he said they did not serve sardines there.  I tried several other restaurants to no avail.  It wasn't until the guy at the music store directed me down a small street lined with outside tables and a variety of small restaurants that I found them.  They were proudly displayed in all their silvery glory in a refrigerated case.  Needless to say, my luncheon was totally divine!  It turns out that the opening of sardine season coincides with the Feast of St. Anthony, and all over the city people grilled them on every type of device.  The fancy restaurants can't compete, and folks wouldn't pay their prices for this local specialty.

The fame of St. Anthony's miracles has never diminished, and even today he is acknowledged as the greatest miracle worker of the time. He is especially invoked for the recovery of things lost. Also, against starvation, barrenness, patron of amputees, animals, boatmen, Brazil, diocese of Beaumont, domestic animals, the elderly, expectant mothers, faith in the Blessed Sacrament, Ferrazzano, fishermen, harvests, horses, Lisbon, lower animals, mail, mariners, oppressed people, Padua, paupers, Portugal, sailors, sterility, swineherds, Tigua Indians, travel hostesses, travelers, and watermen.

St. Anthony is known as the matchmaker saint and on the Eve of his day, June 13th, girls try various methods of finding out whom they will wed. A favorite way is for a girl to fill her mouth with water and hold it until she hears a boy's name mentioned. The name she hears is sure to be that of her future husband!

Another way to recognize 'the gentleman' is to make an agreement with St. Anthony by a sign or an object that only the two of you know about.

A popular ritual advises:
* Fill a small bowl with water
* Write down the names of those you would like (or think you would like!) to be your perfect partner
* Roll up each piece of paper and put them in the bowl
* Place the bowl under your bed.

The next day, look at the papers -- the name that has opened up the most is your perfect partner!

Single women have been known to buy a small statue of Anthony and place (or bury) it upside down for a week, blackmailing him by placing him upright only after they have found a good husband.

A charming custom of the day is for young men to present a pot of basil to the girls they hope to wed. Within the petals is a verse or message that indicates the young man's passion. Pots of basil are displayed on almost every balcony around the city and are often given as gifts with little verses invoking St. Anthony or of love and affection for the recipient.

I discovered that the entire city celebrates St. Anthony the night of June 12 to 13th, with altars built, parades held and streets decorated, while the air is filled with the delicious smell of sardines being grilled at bonfires lining the street,  especially in the Alfma district of the city.  The biggest parade is the Marchas Populares, along the Avenue Liberade.  Along with a few friends, I found an ideal viewing spot not far from my hotel and watched as countless marchers passed by.  Every neighborhood in Lisbon has it's own contingent with colorful costumes, floats and marching bands.  There is a prize for the best group, but as the parade continued past midnight, my friends and I got hungry and headed to the Alfama district for grilled sardines.  We had been invited to a small neighborhood bar with a patio behind.  There we were treated to beautifully grilled sardines on sliced bread served on paper plates.  We drank sangria from plastic cups and licked our fingers as we reached for another fish.  The bones piled up in the middle of our table and still the fish kept coming.  I was in sardine heaven!  Of all the beautifully prepared meals I had while in Portugal, this midnight snack is still the highlight.

For more information about travel adventures in Portugal, visit www.visitportugal.com

NEVIS ISLAND - Montpelier and Nisbet Plantation Inns

Dramatic Beauty Sustains a Dramatic Past

by Patricia Keegan

Nevis, an island paradise in the West Indies is one of the Caribbean’s most beautiful, yet unspoiled, islands within easy reach of Washington DC. Swept with cross breezes and guaranteed to swiftly blow away trailing cobwebs of stress, this small island is home to 10,000 inhabitants on 36 sq. miles. Once admired as the Queen of the Caribs, it has a fascinating history. It became a British colony in 1623 and remained under British rule until both St .Kitts and Nevis achieved independence on September 19, 1983.

Nevis has hosted some of the world’s “larger than life” characters. Alexander Hamilton, the first US Treasury secretary, was born and raised in Nevis, and British war hero, Lord Admiral Horatio Nelson, along with his mistress, Lady Hamilton, have all walked across its miniature stage. It is also the ancestral home of Horatio Nelson’s wife, a widow, Frances Herbert Nisbet Nelson -- therein lies the drama!

During the 18th and 19th centuries Nevis flourished as a wealthy island much sought after for its rich natural resources and thriving sugar and cotton mills. Today the island has an up-to-date infrastructure for tourism with a variety of fine accommodations including a lavish, sparkling Four Seasons Hotel, a Robert Trent Jones golf course, and five beautiful restored plantations. Given the choice, it is not easy to decide where to stay. However, we found the combination of two plantations a winning match.

Montpelier House, the perfect setting for a wedding, began that tradition 200 years ago with the nuptials of Horatio Nelson and Frances Herbert Nisbet. The Nisbet Plantation is where Frances, fondly called Fannie, came to live after her marriage to Dr. Joseph Nisbet. Sadly, he became deranged and died within 18 months of marriage, leaving her with an infant son. It was through her uncle, John Richardson Herbert, the governor of the island, that she became acquainted with Lord Nelson, then a young captain of the HMS Boreas who had arrived at the island.

Our visit encompassed a three-day stay in the cool hilltops at Montpelier Plantation, followed by three days enjoying the beach at Nisbet Plantation and Beach Club. It is hard to envision a more delightful duo.

Montpelier Plantation

Upon arrival at the Nevis Airport, My husband and I took a taxi and circumnavigated the eastern coastline of the island, through the capital of Charlestown, and up the steep hillside to Montpelier. My first impression of the uncluttered island was of acres of lush open fields with majestic Mt. Nevis, draped in green velvet and topped with drifting clouds, never out of sight. The capital of Charlestown is home to several excellent museums including the Alexander Hamilton Museum which just celebrated the 250th anniversary of its namesake’s birth, the Horatio Nelson Museum, and theNevis Historical Museum.The Horatio Nelson Museum sets the stage for Nelson’s accomplishments by briefly telling the story of Nevis’s Amerindian history , followed by European dominance and the alliance between slavery and sugar.

Reaching Montpelier, we noticed a weathered plaque on the wall of the original estate recording the 18th century wedding:

“On this site stands Montpelier House
Wherein on the 11th day of March 1787
Horatio Nelson of Immortal Memory
Then Captain of Hms Boreas
Was married to Frances Herbert Nisbet.'

Entering through the open gate of Montpelier Plantation, we saw the famous tree of Bahamas, the backdrop for many a wedding photograph, where the happy, hopeful Fannie Nisbet and Horatio Nelson also tied the knot.

It was impressive to think of Britain’s hero of the seas, Admiral Lord Horatio Nelson, brilliant strategist, fearless warrior and scandalous lover, holding this strong connection to the tiny island of Nevis. To think that the same man who was instrumental in the fate of England, the hero celebrated by his countrymen when he returned victorious from the Battle of the Nile in 1800, and who died in the Battle of Trafalgar, had probably donned his togs and gone for a dip right here in Nevis.

This timeless, majestic tree is a splendid work of art, gracefully stretching its intricate, sturdy limbs in all directions, creating a complete and symmetrical circle. It serves as the perfect guardian, presiding over the harmony and natural beauty flowering and flourishing all around the lovely plantation.

After a warm greeting from Timothy Hoffman and his family, including his wife Meredith and parents Muffin and Lincoln, we were shown to the poolside bar and there refreshed on a cool rum cocktail. It was also a chance to admire the 60 ft. lap pool where we enjoyed English style afternoon tea each day.

Guest accommodations consist of small uncluttered villas, decorated in white with black trim, with tropical wood furnishings and fresh flowers. The overall simplicity contributes to relaxation while reflecting plantation life. Large windows spanning opposing walls allow fresh breezes to constantly flow through, permitting the radiance and color of the outside environment to become the focus. Each villa has its own deck with distant sea view.

In the stillness of this environment, devoid of TV or radios, the only sound, day or night, is the singing of cheerful birds, cooing of doves and the rustle of leaves caught in the breeze.

Breakfast was something to really look forward to. The veritable feast of fresh fruits, along with a large selection of enticing possibilities, is more than one can imagine for a first meal of the day. After a plate of fresh fruit, I settled, each morning, for the full cholesterol combination of smoked salmon, scrambled eggs, homemade jams, muffins and Greek yogurt. My waitress was very accommodating in bringing steaming milk to make my own café latte.

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Served in an open air restaurant surrounded by dense foliage, it is here guests begin to get an idea of the wonderful character of the people of Nevis. On Sunday morning, while lingering over breakfast, my husband and I were reminded of the Sabbath when we heard the rich, deep voices of the staff in the kitchen singing spirituals: How Great Thou Art, Amazing Grace and even Danny Boy. It was an unexpected pleasure to listen to these lovely voices in such peaceful surroundings.

In the evening Montpelier takes on a new energy. Like a theater, it transforms from a lazy, summer day performance into a sophisticated backdrop where guests gather in the shadow of palm trees and soft lights to socialize and enjoy pre-dinner cocktails. A living snapshot emerges in the flash of color from ladies dresses, the scent of perfume, the mild hum of light conversation, tinkling glasses, and, all the while, the eternal Nevis breeze.

Standing, not quite in the center of the activity, yet ever present -- like a fireplace on a cold day, is the old Sugar Mill. It has been perfectly restored, adding immensely to the timeless spirit pervading this setting. There are only four tables in its inner candlelit circle, but dining in the 17th century Sugar Mill is much coveted on the island. The space accommodates up to 12 people for a prix fixe, candlelight dinner, so guests must reserve early to enjoy this unique, romantic experience with its distinct menu. Montpelier is well known for its Caribbean inspired cuisine that focuses on local delicacies, fresh seafood and produce from the Plantation’s own garden. Here again the staff and service is excellent.

The unique architecture of the Great House and the two large rooms that make up the dining area and drawing room is a space filled with antiques and paintings depicting plantation days. I particularly liked the red room, originally used as a bowling room -- a long rectangular space with a curved wood ceiling created from 40 ft. long parallel planks of wood. In one corner is a cozy bar, in another a piano surrounded with comfortable furnishings. Steel accents, remnants of the original gears of the old sugar mill, are used as decorative items.

It is difficult to pry from proprietor Timothy Hoffman any names of celebrities who have partaken of this plantation’s unique sense of peace. All he will say is, “We are visited by celebrities with whom we would all be familiar, but names are kept sealed in privacy.” As leaks would have it, we know that Princess Diana visited Montpelier, and Meryl Streep has also walked across its colorful stage.

For guests who opt out of renting a car, Montpelier has a shuttle service to its own private beach, Pinney Beach, one of the island’s best. Guests place a request for picnic baskets the evening before and are provided with a wonderful convenience as well as a really tasty meal. The resort provides chaise lounge chairs, umbrellas and beach services to guests.

For the purest dose of fortifying serenity, outstanding service, friendly people and superb staff, few places in the Caribbean can compete with Montpelier Plantation.

For more information visit MontpelierNevis.com. Phone: 869-469-3462.

Nisbet Plantation

Our next stop was Nisbet Plantation, the only historic plantation on the island with direct access to the sea. We were here to enjoy the beach experience and to learn more about Fanny Nisbet.

In contrast to the sense of intimacy found amidst the foliage of Montpelier, Nisbet Plantation is wide open with 36 charming cottages set on 30 acres of flat, manicured lawns. To find our cottage, we crossed the expansive lawn, flanked by palm trees that sweep down from the Great House all the way to the beach, and were delighted to discover we had the yellow cottage closest to the sea. Opening the door and entering, we were immediately struck by the quality and attention to detail in its soothing décor of bright, tropical colors of papaya and lime with white wicker furniture and vaulted ceilings. The king-size bed, set on a platform, was itself a bouquet of color with a variety of soft pillows, roll pillows and shams. Jalousie windows and doors on all sides allowed fresh breezes for comfortable sleeping. Our bathroom was spacious with double sinks, abundant closet space, soft lighting and a fine shower. The large terrace with comfortable lounge furnishings had a sweeping view of sparkling sea and brilliant beaches.

Because of hidden rocks, you have to be a bit cautious about running down and jumping into the ocean, but it is possible to navigate a path beyond the stony bottom to smooth sand and plenty of space to swim freely. Most guests with children seemed to enjoy the huge swimming pool right on the beach. This is a great spot for socializing where people get to know each other and share their stories, while parents keep one eye on children playing in the water. Hammocks and beach chairs are placed in shady areas under palm trees inviting guests to relax and enjoy a good book while being cared for by an attentive staff who bring refreshing drinks. There is an open air bar on the beach for snacks, as well as the breakfast dining area where guests celebrate the morning enjoying the casual, open-air buffet breakfast which caters to every imaginable combination possible and includes bountiful tropical fruits and juices.

A refreshing way to break up the day, if not off exploring the island, is to partake of the afternoon tea served on the back porch of the Great House. It consists of finger sandwiches and cake, together with a nice selection of teas.

A gourmet dinner is served in the 18th-century Manor House, the setting where Fannie Nisbet lived with her son during the 18 months of marriage to her first husband. The house has been beautifully restored and is warmly welcoming. After dinner, guests adjourn to the lounge area where Snowflake, an excellent pianist, provides a full evening of entertainment. No one could leave this house after a great meal, good wine, and the comfortable luxury of soft sofas and lively piano without feeling the spirit of Fannie Nisbet. Guests will find images of Fannie which encourage her memory to live on.

For more information visit NisbetPlantation.com or phone 869-469-9325 or 800-742-6008.

A Snippet of Romantic History

Horatio Nelson was apparently quite taken by Fannie’s refinement and resourcefulness in operating a large house, and she was an accomplished musician and fluent in French.

During his first absence to the Mediterranean, she constantly wrote to him, and when he returned home after losing his arm, she nursed him through months of pain. Later he lost an eye. Then he was off again, and now she began to hear rumors about his meanderings with Lady Hamilton with whom he had an intimate friendship that even her husband, Sir William Hamilton, apparently had no objection to. So Nelson persuaded himself that if Hamilton didn’t object, why should his wife. Whether platonic or not, these rumors were enough to set Fannie’s teeth on edge, and so when Horatio returned home to London where they lived, she treated him coolly. This was the turning point when it seems she was labeled a “cold fish” and tabloids of the time sided with her “heroic” husband and his “fabulous” mistress, Lady Hamilton.

Lady Hamilton, or “Emma,” achieved notoriety through her beauty, acting skills and personal vitality, but she is principally remembered as artist George Romney’s muse and for her love affair with Nelson. Emma, nevertheless, was not exactly born to a “silver spoon” existence. She was the daughter of a blacksmith who died when she was two months old. At the age of 21 she was taken from a brothel “into keeping” as the mistress of several men. She met Horatio Nelson in Naples while married to British envoy, Sir William Hamilton. As the wife of the British envoy, she welcomed Nelson in 1793 when he came to gather reinforcements against the French. Five years later, upon setting eyes on Nelson as he returned to Naples from the Battle of the Nile, Emma was reported to have fainted. Nelson, the living legend, had prematurely aged, lost most of his teeth and was afflicted by coughing spells. Still, she nursed him under her husband’s roof and arranged a party of 1,800 guests to celebrate his 40th birthday.

So while both woman nurtured the returning hero, these upheavals in the marriage eventually led to a separation in 1801. Britain’s public believed Fannie was the cause of the breakup. She lived out her life quietly in London where she was visited by her brother-in-law, Earl Nelson, who remained her friend.

Unable to completely recover from the death of her son in August, 1830, Fannie Nisbet Nelson died on May 4, 1831, in London.

However, the verdict on her “coldness” is still the subject of debate as new papers have recently come to light including letters from Fannie to Horatio over many years which show her as a warm and loving wife. One day, a new movie may be made revising history, more likely, the real story may remain forever buried in the limitless dust heap of half truths.

In Nevis, I discovered the Bahamas tree which, like the island, has threads of history woven so deeply into its foundation, with branches going in so many directions that would take years of research to fathom its fascinating flow. Visitors to this island may find themselves both enriched by all the island has to offer, and tempted to become totally immersed in its history.

The Republic of Cyprus: Seeking Unity

Interview with Ambassador Pavlos Anastasiades

By Alan Dessoff 

Celebrating 50 years of independence, and with an archaeological history that dates back 9,000 years, the Republic of Cyprus is looking to its future with one overriding political objective: Reunification of the Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots who share the island nation that is about half the land size of the state of Connecticut.

Ending Turkey’s occupation, since 1974, of 37 percent of the island’s territory is “the most important issue for us. It is of burning concern. It defines the essence of our policy and national priorities,” states Ambassador Pavlos Anastasiades, who arrived in Washington and presented his credentials to President Barack Obama in September 2010.

While he is hopeful that the objective will be achieved, several rounds of talks between the island’s two main Cypriot communities have failed so far to lead to any positive development. Anastasiades maintains that is due to the Turkish side’s intransigence and continuing effort to partition the island by means of maintaining an occupation army of 40,000 soldiers and by colonization of the occupied part of Cyprus with more than 80,000 settlers from Anatolia.

“It is something we can not allow to continue forever. The people of Cyprus want to end it. They have been suffering violations of their human rights for so many years,” says Anastasiades. He points out that nearly 200,000 Greek Cypriots — 40 percent of the total Greek population — were forced to leave their homes in the occupied area and have become “refugees in their own country.”

The Ambassador cites his hometown, Famagusta. “I was born there, grew up there, went to school there,” he says, but “I have not been back.” A large part of it has been fenced off and other parts have been colonized, he says. “It is a tragic situation. You have a city rotting there. It is a ghost town now. Its inhabitants are not allowed to return.”

To address both the situation in Famagusta and the overall occupation, Cypriot President Demetris Christofias has proposed that the walled area of Famagusta be placed under United Nations administration for reconstruction and restoration. Within the walls is the old medieval city of Famagusta, where Shakespeare’s “Othello” was set. “The old medieval Famagusta is part of the common heritage of Greek and Turkish Cypriots. Putting it under the UN for reconstruction would make it politically more acceptable,” Anastasiades says, adding that the Cyprus government would fund the reconstruction with support from international sources “that would wish to help.” He notes that the U.S. Congress, in the 1980s, authorized a “substantial amount for reconstruction whenever we have a solution.”

The proposal for Famagusta includes opening its port and placing it under the auspices of the European Union, which would enable Turkish Cypriots to “trade legally with the world,” Anastasiades continues. That can not happen now, he explains, because its location, in the occupied area of Cyprus, means it is not under control of the country’s legal government.

Placing the port under EU auspices would provide an added benefit for the Turkish Cypriot community, Anastasiades says. “To reconstruct Famagusta would require billions of dollars of material that would be expected to come through the port, so it would provide a huge economic infusion” for the Turkish Cypriots, he says.

“The proposal would be beneficial for everyone concerned. It is a win-win situation,” he declares. Even though the Turkish Cypriot leadership has not accepted it, “it is still on the table. It is a significant confidence-building measure that would show that we can work together. It would change the whole political climate.”

While its major political problem remains unresolved, Anastasiades points out that Cyprus’s economy has remained “very robust,” even in the face of “a severe global economic and financial crisis.” It has impacted Cyprus in a “secondary way,” the Ambassador says, acknowledging that “we suffer the effects of the downturn in major markets,” especially in western and northern Europe.

He cites Great Britain as an example. Cyprus has close trade and tourist relations with the United Kingdom and much of its real estate market is influenced by what happens there, he explains. The downturn in the UK’s economy has caused a drop in the number of tourists coming to Cyprus, where tourism provides the most national income. Similarly, Cyprus’s real estate market has been impacted because of reduced interest by British and other northern European buyers in coming to Cyprus and investing in its real estate.

Still, “our financial situation is healthy and robust. We don’t have the problems others have had,” Anastasiades says, although “we have experienced the after-effects” of the economic problems in other countries. It has been reflected in Cyprus in a drop in the rate of growth and increases in the country’s budget deficit and unemployment.”

The budget deficit has “created difficulties for a certain strata of the population” but Cyprus has taken measures to combat it. “It is important that we return to a budget deficit that is within the limit of what the Eurozone demands. We estimate that within two or three years, we will be within three percent of that. Being a member of the Eurozone is an important safeguard for Cyprus. We have not faced the uncertainties that other small states perhaps have face,” Anastasiades maintains.

While financial services and its maritime industry — Cyprus is among the world’s top 10 shipping countries — are the mainstays of its economy, Anastasiades says the Cyprus economy is fundamentally service-oriented, with a professional workforce including accountants and lawyers. Its location and its network of relations and agreements with many countries in the Middle East and Europe make Cyprus “a robust and important international business center,” Anastasiades says. “And people speak English,” he adds.

Although it has become more service-oriented, Cyprus essentially has been an agricultural-based economy, and maintains significant agricultural activity for its “social significance; we want to maintain incentives for some of the population to stay in the countryside,” Anastasiades says.

He cites the country’s “niche” products, notably Halloumi cheese and Cypriot wines. New archaeological evidence reveals that winemaking on the island dates back some 5,500 years. “Cyprus: Culinary Crossroads of the Mediterranean” was the subject of a December lecture at the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History, in collaboration with the Smithsonian Associates, as an extended celebration of the country’s anniversary of its 50 years of independence. The Smithsonian exhibition, “Cyprus: Crossroads of Civilization,” which opened last September and will be on view in the Museum of Natural History through May 1, features the largest collection of Cypriot antiquities, coins and other artifacts that the country ever put together and sent abroad, to date it has drawn more than one million visitors, Anastasiades reports.

While Cyprus prides itself on its rich historical and cultural heritage and its modern economic and financial strengths, its unresolved political problem with Turkey underscores its concerns. Anastasiades has met in Washington with Turkish Ambassador Namik Tan. “We had a very civil meeting. There was no problem in establishing a relationship with him,” Anastasiades says.

Similarly, Cyprus’s relations with the United States “are good, on a very high level. One country may be large and the other small, but we have been valued partners,” he says. Although there is no special U.S. envoy in Cyprus now, “the U.S. maintains interest in Cyprus. It supports reunification, supports ongoing negotiations, wants very much to see a resolution of the problem,” Reunification of Cyprus and safeguarding the country as an independent state, free from foreign domination, are “very consistent with the values of the U.S. and also with U.S. strategic interests,” he declares.

He says he will seek to “deepen and widen” the relationship between the countries, particularly on security, economic and energy issues, and “hopefully get a Visa waiver.” Also, “we want to become more well-known in the U.S.”

He underscores that his principal mission in Washington is to “do what I can” with the Administration, Congress, the media and “the wider community of the America people” to assist in the overall effort to end the occupation and to reunify Cyprus. “It is a terrible injustice that has been going on for 37 years,” Anastasiades says. During that time, he points out, “so many other seemingly intractable problems, like the Berlin Wall and Ireland, have been resolved.”

The blame for the continuing division in Cyprus rests with Turkish leaders in Ankara, he asserts, “because they are the dominant power, economically and politically, in the occupation of Cyprus. They have more than 40,000 heavily armed troops there. They really call the shots. Unfortunately, Turkey does not recognize Cyprus and chooses not to have direct communication with us,” he says.

“If Turkey took the position to engage constructively in moving negotiations forward, it would be of great benefit. There are constructive ways of meeting the fundamental concerns of basic human rights without undermining the basic common objective — a bi-zonal, bi-communal declaration with political equality; with a single, international personality, a single sovereignty, a single citizenship. Within that framework, we can find solutions to meet the concerns of both sides.'

“Cyprus is a small island, too small to be divided, but it is large enough to accommodate all its people. There are more things that unite Cypriots than divide them,” Anastasiades exclaims.

“This is our top priority. Nothing else matters as much to us. We remain at the negotiating table and hope the Turkish Cypriot side and Ankara will respond positively. If I see that question resolved satisfactorily during my term of duty here, I will be ecstatic,” Ambassador Anastasiades concludes.

Ireland: Escape to Clare Island

A Small Package of Inspiring Ireland in County Mayo

By Patricia Keegan

To really understand the booming economy of Ireland and the burden attached to being dubbed the Celtic Tiger, one only has to land at Dublin’s Airport -- take a stroll through the newspaper kiosk and stop for a coffee. New energy abounds, and the suddenness of its impact is having its effect. Perusing the book shop in search of an Irish author, I was bemused by the titles of hot new paperbacks. Titles such as “The Marriage Bed,” “Hello Laziness -- Why Hard Work Doesn’t Pay,” and “Back from the Brink -- Coping with Stress.”

I was chagrinned; my native land is obviously feeling the pain that accompanies progress. Ireland is the fastest growing economy in all Europe with the highest per capita GNP and second highest income level in Europe. Changes are visible everywhere. Some make you stop to rub your eyes and ask, “Is this the Ireland that was so relaxed for so long?” In a restaurant at the airport I observed a small boy sitting in front of a computer, plugged in with ear phones, sucking his thumb, his bleary eyes glued to the screen. I asked his mother how old he was. Three years old, she said with a proud smile.

Clare Island -- Here We Come!

Setting out to discover Clare Island, my husband and I eagerly anticipate a giant step back in time. The closer one drives to the West Coast of Ireland, the more the serenity becomes palpable. The scenery begins to open up with a long range of mountains, horses grazing and sheep stretching across the landscape for miles. We pass through peaceful villages with small brightly painted row houses lining the narrow streets. We can’t resist the roadside calling us to stop for a cone of whipped ice cream.

To reach Clare Island, we will pass through the lovely town of Westport in County Mayo, and continue westbound some 23 km. to Louisburg and another 7 km. to Roonagh Quay, where the ferry will take us to Clare Island.

As an introduction to Ireland’s friendly towns, Westport is one of Ireland’s prettiest and liveliest on the West Coast. Here we stopped for breakfast at a busy little café with home baked buns, Irish bread, and the irresistible, full Irish (the cholesterol special) breakfast: sausages, black pudding, eggs, bacon, fried tomatoes and rashers. This morning gorge is said to “build fortitude” for the entire day, which, being economical in time and money, gives us every reason to indulge. This modern café also served deliciously frothy cappuccino.

Relaxing for awhile we watched people coming and going, all busy with life, smiling greetings to each other. The café kept filling up and emptying -- men folding up the morning paper and hurrying off to work. Women appeared more relaxed, in groups, toting beautiful, rosy-cheeked children. Outside the sun is shining and the weather looks very promising for the ferry ride. Not expecting to find any bakeries on Clare Island, we purchased some scones and pastries and continued our journey.

We relished our short drive between Westport and Louisburg with the bay on one side and the famousCroagh Patrick pilgrimage mountain on the other. Even though it is still early morning, people are already hiking the mountain. Ireland’s west coast is one of the world’s favored places for hiking and trekking on horseback.

We reach Roonagh Pier, park the car, and find two ferry services leaving around the same time, competing for our business. We picked the Island Princess, the O’Malley ferry, for no other reason than it held the name of the historic kingdom of Clare Island.

It is September, the ocean is a bit choppy, and the deck sways from side to side. I watch my husband standing at the controls talking with the ferry operator, Charles O’Malley, while balancing himself against the rise and fall of the deck. In the distance I can see the outline of Granuaile’s Castle overlooking the harbor. It is named for the island’s heroine; Grace O’Malley, the formidable, female warrior pirate who ruled the area around Clew Bay during the second half of the 16th century.

There was something about the approach to Clare Island that reminded me of the poem Forgotton Ireland, by Martin Howard.

Still south I went and west and south again
Through Wicklow from the morning ‘til the night.
And far from the cities and
The sights of men,
Lived with the sunshine and
The moon’s delight.

I knew the stars, the flowers
And the birds,
The grey and wintry sides of
Many glens,
And did but half remember
Human words In converse with the mountains,
​Moors and ferns.

The ferry ride takes about 20 minutes. The majestic Knockmore Mountain overlooking Clew Bay is clouded in a mist, the walls of Granuaile’s castle become clearer, I see a long, sandy beach and some white houses near the dock, but otherwise the island appears as an idyllic picture of tranquility.

Within a two minute walk from the dock, we find our B&B, the Granuaile, which turns out to be a good choice with a quiet, homelike room, and a friendly family, for 40 euros per night. Along a wall adjacent to the white, two story house, a little girl is dancing, singing her heart out. She appears to be totally in tune with the freedom evoked by this island environment. She stops a moment to tell us her name is Laura, daughter of the McCabe family, owners of the Granuaile; then she promptly continues her game. Later, in getting to know Laura, we find the makings of one of Clare Island’s next, great personalities of the 21st century.

Exploring the Island

Clare Island is truly blessed by the Gods. Within its 16 square kilometers is a package that envelops all that makes the larger island of Ireland so dramatically inspiring. In our many walks, we feast our eyes on panoramic pieces of what makes Kerry, Donegal and even the Burren so spectacular -- its uninterrupted terrain that lies open, wild, and unspoiled. This is an island living in the past with a population of 140 and just a few stranded cars, (the small ferries don’t transport autos). The island has three advertised B&B’s, two taxicabs, and a shop that rents bikes. While somehow keeping their island jalopies pieced together and running, (no tags or inspections needed on the island), most have private, modern cars parked at the mainland quay.

There is one small, general store on the west side of the island about a two mile walk from the port. Knowing Ireland’s weather, we didn’t dream of packing sunscreen, and the store was taken unawares also; consequently, I developed a rare Irish sunburn.

The island has one church, but no priest at present. While awaiting the arrival of a new priest, lay people celebrate Sunday mass.

One of the most extraordinary sights on Clare Island is the old Lighthouse which stands at the western tip, 387 feet above the Atlantic. This is no ordinary lighthouse, but a group of white buildings, resembling a hotel, straddling the edge of the steep cliffs at the northwest end of the island. Besides its role as a lighthouse, it was for many years a B&B extraordinaire. Now it stands majestically looking out across the Atlantic, awaiting a new owner. The undulating hills around the lighthouse are blanketed with soft, green grass inviting hiking, picnicking or just lying among the daisies looking at the sky.

Near the Lighthouse, along the northern coastline, is Ballytoughey Loom, a small cottage industry which produces high quality, hand woven goods of natural fibers. The business was founded by Beth Moran, a warm and energetic American woman, married to an Irishman. She has a small shop and a room for spinning and weaving where magnificent rugs, scarves and other items are created. As we visit with Beth, we watch a young woman from France busily weaving a rug. She is an apprentice and says she plans to bring her new skills back to France. When I asked Beth why she liked living on Clare Island, she answered with one word, “Freedom!”

If one can ever literally sense that abstraction called freedom, this area of Clare Island is where it reigns supreme. It’s in the deserted hills, in the soft fragrant breeze, and it rides on the waves of the sea. On this island surrounded by the swirling Atlantic, with the intermittent sound of seagulls, where the winters are rugged and summers unpredictable, one feels released and far from the noise and clamor of a restless world.

Also on this side of the island is the lovely, modern Yoga Center. It is built in wood and owned by a couple, Ciara and Christophe. She is an American woman of Irish descent, and he is French. They have a blonde, three-year-old boy who takes the utmost delight in his freedom; clambering up hills and rolling down with his smudged, sunburned cheeks close to the earth. Visitors to the Yoga Center stay at the Center’s own B& B which serves vegetarian cuisine.

In the evening, after exploring miles of scenic beauty, promontory forts and standing stones, we found our way to the island’s one hotel, the Bayview, the liveliest spot on the island. The Bayview has just 12 guest rooms but is planning on renovation and additions. The atmosphere is friendly, relaxed and casual. During the busy season, or during one of the many festivals held on the island, the bar is crowded. We were surprised on our first evening to find a bagpiper clad in tartan kilt, standing on the hill in front of the hotel heralding visitors. We were even more surprised to learn that he was American.

Clare Island’s festivals range from Irish poets gathering to discuss the ongoing wealth of Ireland’s poetry, to the renowned Match Making Festival in September where singles from Ireland and beyond come to the island to find their “soul mate.”

The festival opens with a cocktail party and lasts from Friday until Sunday, during which time singles meet with each other, first in a structured 4-minute session where they rate the intensity of the attraction on a card. Singles mix and rotate all weekend, marking their cards as they go along. If all goes well, it should be fool-proof. They hand in their cards, which are sorted and matched by the Match Maker, and held in secret until the evening of the Romance Ball. A woman will be matched with the man she was most attracted to, and if he is lucky, it will be the same person that attracted him. According to Donal O’Shea, festival coordinator, and Director of Clare Island Development, there have been a number of successful matches. While strolling down the Champs D’Elyses in Paris, he met a married couple who recognized him and thanked him for helping them find each other.

A Visit to the 14th-Century Cistercian Abbey

Of course the island has its own interesting bachelors. One unique character is Bernie Winters, keeper of the keys to the Abbey. Bernie is tall and lanky with a weathered face, bright eyes and a sharp wit, and he has lived all his life on the island with ancestors going “way back.” He is committed to organic farming without pesticides and without machinery. Bernie tills the soil, mows, and gathers hay by hand. He takes care of his sheep and milks his cows, and as a member of WWOOF, the World Wide Organization of Organic Farmers, Bernie lives a life of ingrained self-sufficiency.

Taking a large key from the pocket of his jean, he unlocks the old wooden door of Ireland’s first Cistercian Abbey built in the 14th century. Standing within the stone walls, it is silent, still, and freezing, but the architecture is spectacular in its grandeur. The abbey was founded by monks from Abbeyknockmoy in Galway. You can see the remains of the nave and the chancel vault. An extensive preservation program has just ended and a few of the medieval wall frescos have been restored.

The frescos strike me as heroic, I can’t even imagine what the island was like in the 14th century, but these markers of time point to the human desire for creating transcendent meaning through artistic symbols. On this tiny island it is amazing to find this treasure that spans centuries.

Bernie invites us back to his house, the oldest cottage on the island, where there is the aromatic and tantalizing fragrance of a stew drifting from the bubbling pot on the stove. This bachelor’s house is clean and neat. He pushes a button on his CD player and we hear the voice of Bob Dylan wailing “the times are a changing.” Bernie’s favorite singers are Dylan and Nancy Griffiths. Over the fireplace hangs a light touch of romance; the Dream Weaver, he tells us, was left by a friend who “came and stayed awhile.”

After a short visit, we leave Bernie to his work. He has to “hop on a spade to survive the winter and prepare for spring.”

The weather outside has quickly changed to gale force winds. Bracing ourselves against the blast, we are literally blown into Mrs. McCabe’s class at St. Patrick’s parish school. Mrs. McCabe, our hostess at the Granuille B&B, is also headmistress of the school. She has invited us to visit her classroom. Ranging from 5 to 8 years of age, they are sitting in a circle on the floor. Looking at their eager little faces is like visiting a radiant flower garden in the sunshine. Laura is waving a welcoming “Hello.”

Flopping down in the circle, I ask them what they want to be when they grow up. They are excited, some are shy, they all talk at once. Under the direction of Mrs. McCabe, they raise their hands. Declan, with shining, large brown eyes, tells us of his dreams of being a fisherman. The girls want to be nurses or teachers. Nobody talks about ever leaving the island. They tell us the news about the new baby sisters and brothers that have recently arrived, bringing new excitement to island families. Exuding innocence and happiness, these children are a joy to behold. They play the penny whistle and take turns reading to us.

We also visit Grade 2 classroom, where students are in the midst of studying the Irish Famine. Their writings on the subject are pinned to the board. They tell us about the findings of archeological digs on the island.

Hats off to headmistress, Mrs. McCabe!

According to Donal O’Shea, director of Clare Island Development, Clare Island may soon undergo a giant step forward in time. They are currently working on plans for infrastructure development after receiving a 250,000 euro government grant. Some islanders oppose the changes that would affect their quality of life, as it would likely increase tourism beyond 10,000 per year. Islanders commented on one young hooligan who came to the island, stole a car, and crashed it into a tree.

This cherished, little package of spectacular Ireland may be better served by either being allowed to slumber peacefully in the past, or by instituting some kind of screening of everybody who comes aboard the ferry. Perhaps erecting a large sign declaring Clare Island is:

Only for those who respect and revere the island’s beauty, starting with each blade of grass.

At this moment, Clare Island appears vulnerable to invasion by the 21st century. It will take a high degree of sensitivity to the wishes of the islanders to advance, without destroying what is unique and precious about this island.

For more on Clare Island visit www.clareisland.ie .

For car rental, check out Dooley Car Rentals, a friendly, service-oriented company, with all-inclusive weekly rates, including tax and insurance, priced in dollars! They have 15 Irish locations, a wide selection and competitive rates. Tel: 800-331-9301.

For a free vacation planning kit or for more information, contact Tourism Ireland at 800-223-6470, or visit TourismIreland.com.

Schwaebisch Hall Germany

A Destination Back In Time

By Patricia Keegan

Frankfurt’s bustling Hauptbahnhof stands as one of Europe’s busiest and most efficient rail stations. Each platform is clearly marked, and trains run on time to many enticing capitals throughout Europe. In this, my journey back in time, I will be leaving the modern, fast- paced Frankfurt with a plan to change trains at Stuttgart, continuing on until I reach the small, medieval town of Schwaebisch Hall, in the northeast of Baden-Württemberg.

I boarded the impressive, silver bullet ICI Train, the express inner city rail connection. For part of my trip, I sat at a linen-covered dining car table, savoring a pastry, watching the fields roll by and catching up with the political woes of Germany’s Chancellor Schroeder. Switching trains was no problem, but when I arrived in the small town of Schwaebisch Hall, I was confronted with a challenge: how to get to the Hohenlohe Hotel about two miles distant. In this small town, on a Sunday afternoon, either the taxies were busy or the drivers had decided to spend this quiet, sunny day with family.

After waiting some 20 minutes, I inquired about the lack of taxis from a young man who had just pulled his white van onto the curb. Without hesitation, he invited me to accompany him, his wife and three year-old son, assuring me it was “no trouble” as they were already en route to town. Heading down some steep hills, the car pulled up front of the Hotel Hohenlohe. From this point I could see the Kocher River and glimpse the town, with church steeples and red roof tops climbing ever higher above the river valley.

I was struck with the drama of the town and the gracious, spontaneous attitude of the people. I even wondered if I had stumbled into a time warp far from the crass world of the 21st century. After expressing appreciation to this Schwabisch Hall family, I rolled my suitcase through the surprisingly sterile, modern looking facade of the hotel.

After checking into the Hohenlohe, (named after the Hohenlohe dynasty who, since 1103, have played a significant role in the development of this town), I was given a key to a room downstairs on the 2nd floor. I found myself in a small room, with a tiny bed but generously endowed with two large windows and a French door opening to an expansive roof terrace -- three times as large as the room, with the additional luxury of a table and chairs. This terrace gave me a wide angle view of Schwaebisch Hall, and the view was spectacular. Like spreading wings, I could see, in detail, all the way up and down the Kocher River. In front of me the hills rose steeply beyond the quaint town and, as the church bells chimed six o’clock, I heard them calling for me to come out and explore.

A stop at the hotel’s plush restaurant for what I thought would be a quick refueling, turned into a veritable feast. I enjoyed a hearty meal, high in quality and nicely presented. I was contemplating the salt shaker before me, containing the “white gold” of the Middle Ages, first distilled by my ancestors, the Celts, in Schwaebisch Hall as early as the fifth century, when I heard a woman at a nearby table telling the waiter that she and her friends were “off to see Juan Carlos on the steps.” She was waving her hand in the direction of the church on the hill which was visible through the long panel of windows facing the town.

The waiter informed me that there were two other operas playing on the steps of St. Michaels’ on different evenings -- Die Dreigroshegnoper and Die Comedian Harmonists.

Leaving the hotel on this bright summer evening, I passed a museum with a banner hung across it advertising The Last Judgment by Henry Caro -- a bit eerie for my upbeat momentum, but I made a mental note and hurried on. When I arrived at St. Michael’s Church, the air was filled with music but it was too late to purchase tickets and the area was blocked off. Walking across the wooden bridge of this artistically vibrant town, I paused to look down at the Kocher River and was surprised to see a few Henry Moore sculptures set in precise locations along the banks, flanked by ancient buildings. The Henry Moore, Epoche and Echo exhibit was in full swing with sculptures set around the town and in the Kunsthalle Wuerth Museum. Other sculptors included Barbara Hepworth, Eduardo Paolozzi, Tim Scott and Barry Flanagan.

Schwabisch Hall, with a population of approximately 35,000, is one of Germany’s few remaining cultural treasures not annihilated during WWII. In the 18th century, during the height of its salt production, Hall, as the town was called, had become very prosperous. An Imperial mint was in production, founded by the House of Hohenstaufen.

Today the town is known for Bausparkasse Schwabisch Hall AG, a housing credit company founded in 1944, as well as a center for service industries.

The two oldest churches, St. James and St. Michaels’ were built in the 11th and 12th centuries respectively. The first recorded mention of Hall was in 1037. It became a free imperial city in 1280 and remained as such until the Napoleonic wars in 1802.

The town, with its timber framed buildings, was destroyed by fire three times, in 1360, 1680, and 1728, but today the architecture creates an ambience in which the past is still solidly present. During the Reformation, Josep Brenz, a young theologian and friend of Martin Luther, became the dynamic power behind the religious Reformation and the introduction of Protestantism to Hall. He became pastor of St. Michael’s in 1522 when it was changed to a Lutheran church.

In 1934 the name Hall was officially amended to read Schwabisch Hall.

Setting out to explore the narrow, cobbled streets, each flight of steps I ascended led to more cobbled streets with decorative, timber framed houses. I passed museums and peered into inviting shop windows, promising to return in the morning for further exploration. On the return trip I saw the Globe Theatre, on what appeared to be an island on the river. It is a Shakespearian theatre constructed like its famous namesake in London and accessible by walking across a covered bridge.

Returning to the Hohenlohe, I plunged into its famous swimming pool which is connected to the original salt water mines by underground pipes, creating a solebad – hot, healing salt water. This enormous pool is a great asset to the town residents as well as hotel guests.

At the heart of old town stands the square with magnificent Renaissance buildings, the ornate, baroque City Hall, and the romanesque St. Michael’s Cathedral. The church houses a multitude of precious art works, and is currently running an eclectic exhibit by local contemporary artists. The colorful square, with its architectural mix, stole a place in my heart. It is like a setting for a Hans Christian Anderson fairytale encompassing the vibrancy of the entire town.

Since 1925, professional open-air theater has been performed on the 54 steps of St. Michael’s. While I watched rehearsal forComedian Harmonists on the steps, listening to the music, watching the dancing and absorbing the performers fun-filled enthusiasm, I looked up at the windows of the Goldener Adler Hotel, (The Golden Eagle), and decided I would stay there on the last of my three nights. The bright red geraniums in the windows were an added attraction.

The Adler was erected in 1500 as a patrician house in the gothic style. In the 16th century it became an attractive inn with stained glass windows, hosting guests from the ranks of the nobility. On the sidewalk, next to an outdoor café which daily bakes a memorable rhubarb custard pie, is a model of an old pillory, reminiscent of the system of justice which was customary in medieval times.

Facing St. Michael’s is the reconstructed, baroque Town Hall, the only building damaged during WWII. In this magnificently restored building, I was introduced to the Oberburgermeist, (the mayor), Hermann Josef Pelgrim. In Germany he is called the Lord Mayor. I expected him to come out in a long robe and tri-cornered hat, but was surprised to meet an ebullient, cosmopolitan leader in a business suit who has also lived in Brazil and Chile. He came to office in 1998 and now, in his second term, is striving to make Schwabisch Hall a good investment while keeping up a steady flow of cultural activity. In our brief meeting, he informed me that the key to sustaining and increasing the stream of 70,000 visitors per year is to maintain and promote his town’s cultural strength.

“In this town, which combines past with present, we have a big music school, a library, an arts school, museums, theater, the Goethe Institute. We have a vibrant exchange program with American students, and a Media and Art University of Applied Sciences which includes graphic design, video and filmmaking.”

Schawbisch Hall has one of the lowest crime rates in Germany. He also mentioned that over 100 different nationalities live side by side, “Open minded people from all over the world.”

When the US army was stationed here,” the mayor said, “they brought there own cultural exchange of football and American square dancing.' Schwabisch Hall now has a Mosque built by a Muslim man who won the lottery. Construction has recently been completed on this ultra modern mosque which stands near a Catholic church in a residential area. The Muslims have invited Catholics, Protestants and Jews to meetings in the mosque to try to build bridges of understanding in their culture.

There are three major museums in Schwaebisch Hall. The Kunsthalle Wuerth has paintings and sculpture from the 20th and 21st century and from the collection of art patron Reinhold Wuerth. Visitors can also experience contemporary art in the City Gallery and the Fire Department Museum with over 5,000 exhibits from four centuries telling the story of the town’s battle against fires. Among the most important and impressive in all of Baden Württemberg is Museum Hallisch-Frankisches the Hall Franconian, illustrating the history of this medieval town.

To get a full sense of the unique setting of Schwabisch Hall is to take a drive out through nearby countryside to visit surrounding areas. Vellberg is an idyllic, tiny town with old town walls, gates, towers, flowers gardens and a common garden where people grow their vegetables. It is so quiet here that one can hear only the sound of a breeze rustling the leaves and a bird singing.

On a rounded mountain peak above the Kocher valley stands Gross Comburg, formerly a Benedictine monastery, with Romanesque towers and Baroque architecture, which the Count of Rothenburg-Comburg donated to the Benedictine order in 1078 when it was first established as a monastery. Here you can walk the 500-meter ring wall with covered battlements enclosing the monastery with lookout towers scanning miles of open countryside.

The church is filled with beautifully preserved romanesque works of art. In the 12th century, when the monastery experienced its heyday, Abbot Hartwig donated two precious works of art to the church. One was the Antependium which covers the altar table, the other; the richly adorned wheel-shaped chandelier, produced around 1130, which is 16 feet in diameter. It is believed to be the only chandelier of this style left in the world. With its ring and twelve gate towers, it symbolizes “heavenly Jerusalem” in an apocalyptic vision. This is a “must see” for visitors to the area. In 1947, using many of the buildings of the former monastery, Gross Comburg was set up as the first State Academy for Advanced Teacher Training, and is still active today.

My last day at the Goldener Adler, which allowed me a grand view of the square and all its activities, began with the bustling market -- with farmers selling their vegetables, meats and flowers -- and closed with the opera bursting forth from the steps of St. Michael's.

The atmosphere of this hotel, run by owners Rosmarie and Johann Ganz, is warm and inviting with a personable, efficient staff. Ensuite rooms are large, and the stairs to the third floor are so old they slant sideways. Inscribed on one of the wall on the 3rd floor landing is an artistic inscription, Hier Wohnte Kaiser Karl V,1541-1546. Rosemarie told me that the Kaiser had been one of the procession of nobility who had lodged here. Since 1925 the Adler has been designated an architectural monument.

I enjoyed my box seat for the opera from my large window sill. I didn’t mind having my shutters open all night and getting less than 40 winks when suddenly the bells of St. Michael’s rang at 6 am. The experience was great, I would do it all again.

For information on the Hotel Goldener Adler see www.goldener-adler-sha.de

For information on Hotel Hohenlohe see www.hotel-hohenlohe.de

For more information on Schwaebisch Hall visit www.schwaebischhall.de

Florida's Most Enticing Feature: Captiva Island

and Tween Waters Inn

By Patricia Keegan

Unique and timeless, Captiva Island has chosen to bypass the high rise condos and dense commercialization that epitomize most of the sunshine state’s attractions.

One of the greatest travel surprises of my varied destinations is Captiva Island. It has managed, despite the siren call to commerce, to maintain a subdued ambience in total harmony with sea, sand and nature. Here one feels an instant connection -- a retreat to nature beyond the intrusion of 21st century hype.

From a flight into Tampa, it’s about a three-hour drive to the causeway separating mainland Fort Myers from Sannibel Island. Captiva and Sannibel Islands lie together, like two peas in a long pod, forming a peninsula jutting into the Gulf of Mexico. Driving along the 12 miles of Sannibel, there is the occasional glimpse of multi-million dollar homes half hidden in tropical gardens. However, once you cross the tiny bridge onto Captiva, everything opens up with long stretches of white sandy beach edged with breaking surf. The very sight made my husband and I sigh spontaneously in universal agreement, “Ah-haa, this is indeed the place to be”!

I had found Captiva Island on an internet search while looking for “best beach in Florida.” Now, checking in at Tween Waters Inn, we wondered if we had stumbled on exactly what we were searching for.

Overlooking the ocean across a narrow, two-lane road, Tween Water lies between the bay and the Gulf. The resort is extensive, colorful and inviting. The landscape is dotted with small, gaily painted cottages, picket fences and rose bushes, with several large hotel-like buildings in the background. As we stepped into the reception area, words of encouragement came from a woman with a booming voice, on a cell phone standing next to her SUV. She was informing someone that she just arrived at Tween Waters, which “looks great and came highly recommended.”

At the reception desk, we were greeted by Don Williams, the low key manager, and Sandee, his assistant, who together create an instant image of what to expect on the entire island of Captiva -- a genuinely warm, friendly and relaxed atmosphere. Sandee supplied us with a folder of nature and entertainment activities, as well as coupons offering generous discounts on everything from scuba diving to dinner at the resort’s Old Captiva Restaurant. We discovered that most of the staff at Tween Waters hail from far off countries like Russia, Poland and the Czech Republic, adding an interesting international touch.

We stayed in the Orchid one of the eleven, restored historic cottages. This is a tiny, exquisite cottage, made for two, with a screened-in porch, luxury bath and kitchenette. The high bed was adorned in a burgundy and gold brocade spread, complimenting the wicker furniture and reflecting the golden glow from the lampshades. For such a small space it was so cozy and beautifully appointed that, for a moment, I wondered why people preferred to luxuriate in, and even risk becoming lost within the halls of million dollar homes. The cottage’s intimacy and simplicity transport you back in time. In fact, the Orchid has a history, having served as family quarters for a defunct WWII Army airfield on the mainland before being transported to the island. Some cottages are named after famous people who have visited the island. Anne Morrow Lindbergh, in “Gift from the Sea,” shared the following sentiment about the cottage lifestyle:

“Here I live in a bare seashell cottage… I find I don’t bustle about with unnecessary sweeping and cleaning here… I want the windows open all the time, (and) I shall ask into my shell only those friends with whom I can be completely honest.”

Sure enough, there is lovely cottage christened The Charles Lindbergh. The cottages all have original heart pine floors and fireplaces. Each is unique in its own beauty, yet one of the most outstanding is the Ding Darling Cottage in memory of the Pulitzer Prize-winning editorial cartoonist and conservationist who wintered at Tween Waters. The Roosevelt Cottagehas it own original theme -- outdoor rustic. So much quality and originality of design has been invested in these historic cottages that they could verily become the ideal or model for cozy vacation getaways.

All the activities one would expect of a five-star resort are available at Tween Waters, (which has no rating, but is in a three-star category). It has an oversized pool and sundeck, tennis courts, a small, but intimate spa with a wide menu of treatments, and a state-of-the-art fitness center with a multitude of Cybex stations, treadmills, stair masters, and weights.

The resort straddles the narrow island between the Gulf of Mexico and Pine Island Sound, and on the harborside dock you can arrange boat rentals. Trips to the golf course are just 20 minutes away. Since the resort has become a popular spot for weddings, couples are invited to some pampering with a spa session and a sunset cruise -- certain to alleviate pre-nuptial jitters.

Tween Waters Resort is abundant in reasons to vacation here, but for me, the greatest attraction is its location opposite the beach. Every morning before breakfast, my husband and I would cross to this long strip of white sand beach and dive straight into the crystalline Gulf waters. We could jog the length of the beach and not see another soul. One morning we watched a huge barracuda stalking a smaller fish at the waters edge. The victim could move neither left nor right without response from its hunter. Suddenly the barracuda swept toward the beach, and in only inches of water, grabbed its prey in a spray of foam, and disappeared with the fish wriggling in its mouth.

Looking down the beach, the resort’s lineup of hooded blue Cabanas are not only attractive, but also appealing and practical. You can rent a Cabana by the hour or all day for $15. Beneath this breezy raised platform, you can easily become buried in a book and not worry about sunburn.

On the dock and marina side of the resort we quietly observed a sea otter sitting at the helm of a boat with the remains of a fish in its paws. On the pier we watched heron mothers and white headed babies so tame they practically took a handout -- begging for tasty morsels. Manatees lounge in the shallows, motionless except for the occasional breath of air.

In the evening it become our ritual to be on the beach for sunset and then to dine at the Old Captiva House, a restaurant so good we felt little motivation to explore further. The ambience is bright and spacious, overlooking tropical flower gardens. The menu is varied with plenty of enticing choices, but for two nights in a row I had mahi-mahi in a delightful, crunchy roasted pecan sauce while my husband enjoyed fresh grouper. There were other enticing options on the menu, but to the credit of Chef Jason Miller, these were so good we didn’t think anything else could top it. Breakfast offers either a choice from the menu or the complimentary buffet, abundant in its variety of fruits and tantalizing fresh pastries and breads made in Tween Waters very own bakery.

For a truly casual evening, the Crow’s Nest Restaurant and Lounge, located next to the Old Captiva, is the place to be. Here you will find a pub style menu with steaks, and fresh seafood served in a casual atmosphere. It is also the nightspot for Captiva Island locals and guests who enjoy music and entertainment five nights a week.

Exploring the north tip of Captiva, we came to the South Seas Hotel and Resort complex which was badly damaged in last year’s hurricane but is now being restored and scheduled to re-open next year. It is a huge, modern, high rise facility facing the ocean with its own private golf course. We also stopped by Jensen’s Resort and Marina where we discovered some native and colorful characters that add to the charm of the island. We met the owners, three brawny, tanned and carefree brothers -- John, Dave and Jimmy -- who came from Minnesota in the 70’s when their father bought a few acres here, for a “song, sight unseen.” Today, because of their visionary father, instead of suits and ties, they ,enjoy a life of sun and sea, attired in shorts, tee shirts and bandanas.

“We’re not making any money, but we could never live anywhere else,” John tells us with a big grin. From the Jensen pier we took a speedboat with Jeff, an employee and young sailing expert, who spoke of his dream of becoming a life-long protector of Nature. We stopped briefly at tiny North Captiva, an island of luxury homes, to drop off a worker from the Northeast who had just arrived, tools in hand, to repair mansions damaged in the hurricane. On the return trip, we paused to watch a school of dolphins performing a joyful dance in the water.

Another not-to-be-missed attraction on Sanibel Island is the Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge, one of over 530 refuges in the national Wildlife Refuge System. Each season attracts a different variety of bird life. The refuge has an incredible 291 species of birds, over 50 reptiles, and year round osprey, raccoon, and pelican residents. Alligators can be seen basking in the winter sun, but retreat to cooler, shady spots in the hot summer. One of Darling’s most important contributions to wildlife was the 1934 initiation of the migratory Bird Hunting Stamp, or Duck Stamp. Since then, proceeds from the sale of these stamps have purchased over 4.4 million of wetlands for preservation in the national Wildlife Refuge System.

Perhaps out of reverence for the local natural environment, both the Tween Waters Resort and Captiva Island represent a charmingly spun cocoon which has chosen not to surrender to the Big Mac world.

For more information, call (800) 223-5865 or (239) 472-5161, or visit www.tween-waters.com

UN Goals: On Track or Off the Rails?

By Bill Miller

In September 2000, 189 member states of the UN drafted the Millennium Development Goals (MDGs) to overcome eight major problems over a 15-year period.

The MDGs committed to the eradication of extreme poverty and hunger by 50%, achieve universal primary education, promote gender equality and empower women, reduce child mortality by two-thirds, improve maternal health by three-quarters, reverse the spread of HIV/AIDs, malaria and other diseases, ensure environmental sustainability and develop a global partnership for development.

The MDG Summit was unique because it identified basic human needs and basic rights to which every human is entitled. Rather than talking about vague generalities, the MDGs are specific, quantifiable and measurable.

Recently, the countries of the world met at the UN to identify progress, review obstacles and gaps and develop concrete plans to achieve the MDGs. Are the goals being achieved? There is reason for both optimism and pessimism.

Goal #1, Poverty. Even with the international economic downturn, overall poverty rates declined from 46% in 1990 to 27% in 2005 which, if continued, will be on-track to halve the proportion of the 2 billion people living on $1.00 per day, thus achieving Goal number 1. One reason for improvement is due to China and India reducing poverty in their countries. The UN estimates that 920 million will still be living on less than $1.25 a day in 2015.

The reduction of hunger and malnutrition is trending downward, but at a much slower pace. The UN projects that 830 million people are undernourished.

UN agencies and several governments have embarked upon assistance programs to create jobs, provide food assistance cooperatives, invest in agriculture research and develop voucher programs for fertilizer and seed, as a few examples.

Goal #2, to promote universal education, highlights that enrollment for boys and girls, in developing areas, reached 89% from 2008, up from 83% in 2000. At that pace, the 100% goal will not be met by 2015.

Various governments, such as Kenya and Nepal, abolished school fees; whereas, Ghana and Tanzania have provided additional classrooms and educational materials. The UN World Food Program is providing meals for school children, and the UN Population Fund in Ethiopia is working to put an end to child marriages and to keep girls in school.

Goal #3, to enhance gender equality and empower women, has had limited success. The enrollment ratios of girls in primary and secondary schools have risen dramatically; whereas, many women to not have sufficient access to higher education, especially in sub-Saharan Africa and Southern Asia.

Bangladesh provides secondary school stipends for girls; whereas, Mexico awards a 'Gender Equity Seal' to companies that recruit, train and employ females. The UN Population Fund is working to reduce female genital mutilation in places such as Egypt, Gambia and Senegal, and to offer microfinancing for women in Vietnam.

This week the US announced new commitments and $44 million in funding to empower and protect women in conflict. This 'national action plan' is geared to help implement United Nations Security Council Resolution 1325, adopted in October of 2000, which highlights the role women must play for global security and strives to bring more women into the business and political arenas.

Goal #4, to reduce child deaths, is improving but not quickly enough. Of the 67 countries defined as having high child mortality rates, only 10 are poised to hit the mark by 2015. To reduce death rates, several African countries are providing anti-malaria mosquito nets; whereas Cambodia promotes breastfeeding to foster healthy babies.

Goal #5, to improve maternal health, is not meeting the 5.5% annual decline to meet the national mortality ratio. Over 350,000 women die each year from pregnancy and childbirth-related complications, of which 99% are in developing countries.

Many countries are expanding maternal health services, combating fistula and dispatching mobile maternal health units.

Recently, UN Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon, along with governments, businesses, foundations and NGOs, launched the 'Global Strategy for Women's and Children's Health' to focus attention and resources on an issue that was languishing.

Goal #6's battle against AIDs is showing considerable progress, given that new HIV infections fell from 3.5 million in 1996 to 2.7 million in 2008. Programs such as free access to antiretroviral treatment to the development of reproductive health and HIV prevention training are showing positive results.

Goal #7, to ensure sustainable development, will surpass the target of gaining access to drinking water, and the goal of improving the lives of 100 million slum dwellers has been achieved twice-over.

On the down side, the goals to slow the decline in biodiversity and provide toilets and latrines are not going to be met. Over 17,000 species of plants and animals are on the brink of extinction and 2.7 billion people lack adequate sanitation.

Examples of successful programs include reducing ozone-depleting substances, providing solar energy systems and installing water systems.

Goal #8, to develop global partnerships for development, has had mixed results. A level of Official Development Assistance (ODA) of .7 of 1% of gross national income, which was agreed upon in Monterrey in 2002, and at the Gleneagles Group of 8 Summit and at the UN World Summit in 2005, has not been achieved.

Although the US, France, Germany and Japan are the largest aid donors, only Denmark, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Norway and Sweden have achieved the ODA goal of .7%.

To help achieve the MDGs, the UN has taken several major steps:

-- 1. Secretary-General Ban established the MDG Advocacy Group of eminent personalities, such as Bill Gates, Ted Turner and Bob Geldorf, to build political will and mobilize global action to achieve the MDGs.

-- 2. The UN sponsored the UN Private Sector Forum, a meeting of over 300 major business executives, UN agencies, governments and NGOs, to brainstorm as to how companies can help achieve the MDGs.

-- 3. The UN established the Global Alliance for ICT and Development (UNGAID) which is a web-based knowledge tool and information resource to help developing countries achieve the MDGs. UNGAID can disseminate better market information to businesses, students can access educational materials and physicians can provide long-distance health care.

Although the MDG results are mixed, progress has been uneven and some regions will achieve some or all of the goals, the reviews show that the MDGs are achievable with proven policies, sufficient levels of financial and technical investment and international support. But what more can be done?

First, wealthy nations need to keep their promise and deliver on the .7 of 1% commitment, which is only 70 cents on every $100.00. Many of these MDG problems can be defeated with increased funding.

Second, economic growth, that is trade rather than aid, will do more to reduce poverty. Developed countries should open their markets more to exports from poorer countries. Businesses should be more involved in job creation.

Third, any assistance funding must be more transparent, accountable and effective in reaching the target population.

Improving the plight of the most needy will reduce suffering and death, promote social, economic and political stability and create new markets.

'We must not fail the billions who look to the international community to fulfill the promises of the Millennium Declaration for a better world,' said UN Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon recently.

Hundreds of thousands of faith-based groups, businesses, sports associations, youth groups and individuals are getting involved to help achieve the MDGs. No one country or group can be successful by itself, yet the sheer force of numbers and sharing resources can virtually make the difference between victory or defeat.

The world has the knowledge and financial resources to the job. Does it have the political will? Time is running out.

_____________

Bill Miller, former Chair of the UN Association of the USA's Council of Chapter and Division Presidents, is the accredited Washington International journalist covering the UN and is the Producer/Moderator of “Global Connections Television.”

Obama, Idealism and the Promise of Tomorrow

By Patricia Keegan

When a baby is born in America and awakens for the first time in a strange, new world what will be expected of this child and what is the promise of tomorrow? The child is, in itself, a wondrous miracle, a gift of joy, a vision of perfection. Awesome in its presence, mysterious in its mind, the baby is the majestic affirmation of a loving God. The primary instinct of a family is to protect the innocence of the child and to point to the wonders, the beauty, the possibilities in the surrounding world. Ideally they nurture the soul, helping it to grow strong, happy and confident, knowing that one day the child will face life’s inevitable challenges and be able to make the right choices.

America is now at a turning point that could move the country even further away from idealism into the stagnant pit of cynicism, or open the path to a more enlightened society where differences in opinion, color or creed are a source of interest, not anger, and where immediate gratification is expected only by two year-olds.

In the amazing and colorful pattern of the fabric of our society, if we look through a positive lens, there are buds struggling to bloom, there are courageous people who want to add to the cohesion and understanding of the larger world. The effort to avert a clash of civilizations, or even abate the insults hurled back and forth against Muslims may, in the long run, dilute the current state of hysteria, produce civil discourse and promote better understanding of each other. Reaching this point means listening more to learn more, and having the sensitivity to not stigmatize a group from a biased or narrow perspective.

The unfortunate dilemma of the human condition is that our communication is generally confined to words, and words, given their limitations, are inadequate -- at times even hazardous. Who could have found the words to give Barack Obama a complete overview of what faced him as President of the United States? Not past Presidents or history books. Who could have shown him the depth of the pitfalls of war, the intricate toppling of the financial world, or the fickleness of people? Who could have warned him of the vitriol that would be heaped upon him?

Like a rainbow of hope, the Obama wave was an arc of idealism spanning a country desperately looking for a change. Searching for miracles to heal the cynical divide, young and old alike were caught up in that captivating message of hope. They expected the impossible because they didn't realize how the inner cauldrons of influence worked in Washington. Their source of hope, Barack Obama, did not walk on water. Though idealistic, gifted and noble in his philosophy, he could not transform the world in one or two years because he was merely human! Whether or not that fact is acceptable to Obama’s constituency will be a significant harbinger of the future and how it will affect our children. Will idealists still rise from the young or will they grow up in an angry, cynical world as non-participants in the electoral process?

Only by uniting in pursuit of the common interest can our country move forward. The issues on the table are serious and need immediate and undivided attention that call for a bipartisan approach. Since the Great Depression and WWII, Americans have not been bombarded with such dire predictions regarding both domestic and global issues.

Today the President of the United States carries an unrelenting, unforgiving burden of responsibility on his shoulders. Adding to the hefty weight of two wars, we now face the unpredictability of a terrorist attack and the predicted ravages of global warming. Is this not an unprecedented array of problems to be carried by an American President? From Eisenhower all the way through the last 60 years and nine presidents, not one had to face the enormous challenges that confront Obama.

If one were to take even a few moments to ponder the immense burden this man carries, it would be clear that our President deserves our respect, as well as our prayers.

Today, as our children become more aware of the world around them and start planning for the dream of a good education, this nation must remain a land of promise and pride, encouraging our young to study, to travel and to learn about other people, cultures and languages We are at a turning point where all could be swept up in negativity. That great promise of dignity and the pursuit of happiness, as laid out in the Declaration of Independence by the founding fathers, could become nice words of aspiration, but meaningless and beyond the reach of most hard-working people.

Something good has to happen to prevent this ideal from disappearing from our lives and the lives of future generations. Goals have to be set, solutions found. The seeds of reason must rise, take hold and bear fruit; the good of the whole country must become the national priority. We have a leader with the ability to make this happen, but he can't do it alone. If the youth, the idealists and the visionaries who rallied around candidate Barack Obama have faith, if they unite and energize, they can move the country out of this rut of negativity. Rather than trying to fast-forward the pace of the Obama “Change”, it is still possible, step by step, to avoid the slump of indifference, and with hard work and patience build a resolve high enough and strong enough to catch the light beyond the clouds.

Taiwan Ushering in a Golden Decade

By Johnny C. Chiang, Minister, Government Information Office

The Republic of China (Taiwan) will celebrate its 99th birthday on October 10, 2010. Over the past six decades, Taiwan’s economic performance and democratic transformation have been strongly affirmed by the international community. And, in recent years, our effort in achieving cross-strait reconciliation and peace in the Asia-Pacific has borne fruit. These accomplishments have laid a firm foundation for robust development in the coming decade.

Since taking office in May 2008, President Ma Ying-jeou has promoted healthy interaction with mainland China, while also supporting international development and cooperation. These policies have been undertaken in line with the principles of “no unification with the mainland, no creation of an independent Taiwan republic, and no use of force to settle sovereignty issues” and “putting Taiwan first for the benefit of the people.”

A new chapter is being written in cross-strait relations. In June 2010, Taiwan and mainland China signed the Cross-Straits Economic Cooperation Framework Agreement (ECFA), whose Early Harvest Program reduced tariffs on more than 800 products while opening up the service sector on both sides. On the same day the ECFA was signed, the two sides also separately inked an agreement on intellectual property rights protection. These significant breakthroughs followed on the heels of changes allowing mainland Chinese tourists to visit Taiwan directly and the launch of direct postal, transportation and trade links.

Over 1.5 million mainland tourists have come to Taiwan since we lifted related restrictions in July 2008. In August 2010, laws were revised to allow mainland students to pursue studies in Taiwan. And the fact that the ECFA took effect this September has been conducive to the normalization of economic and trade relations. These advances have further integrated Taiwan into Asia-Pacific markets and the global economy.

Mainland investment, tourists and students not only offer Taiwan sizeable economic opportunities and inject a new vitality into the economy, they also allow people of the two sides to get to know each other better. Moreover, these changes have relieved fears of war in the Taiwan Strait, a “peace dividend” the world is now enjoying thanks to President Ma’s cross-strait policies.

An important consequence of this new, peaceful overtone in cross-strait relations was our receipt of an invitation by the World Health Organization to attend the World Health Assembly (WHA) as an observer in 2009. We were also invited to send a delegation to attend the 2010 convention in May. At the WHA, we have shared our experiences in disease prevention and medical treatment with other countries.

At present, we are seeking to participate in the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change and the International Civil Aviation Organization as well as other UN specialized agencies to help resolve climate change and flight safety issues. We desire to work with all nations to solve problems we collectively face, and we hope mainland China and other countries will support these efforts.

Peaceful progress in the cross-strait relationship — long hoped for by the international community — has opened up opportunities not only for cross-strait cooperation, but also for Taiwan to retake the initiative on economic development as we confront the challenge of “new regionalism.”

As a result of our efforts, Taiwan was ranked eighth in the World Competitiveness Yearbook 2010 by the Swiss-based International Institute for Management Development, up from 23rd in 2009. Since the ECFA’s signing, the international community has looked favorably upon Taiwan’s economic development prospects. Our GDP is expected to grow 8.24 percent in 2010. Even more encouraging was the September 2010 global investment report issued by US-based Business Environment Risk Intelligence, in which Taiwan was rated fourth worldwide in investment environment.

Looking ahead, Taiwan will work to maximize opportunities and minimize risks as we vigorously improve cross-strait relations further and sign trade agreements with other major trading partners. We are also encouraging global investment in Taiwan in 32 areas, including biotechnology, green energy, refined agriculture, tourism, healthcare, the cultural and creative industries, knowledge-based industries and key service industries. Such efforts will transform Taiwan into a hub for regional trade, investment and innovation.

Taiwan and mainland China have been governed separately for 61 years. As such, there still remain many issues concerning the two sides’ different political and social systems that need to be ironed out. Nevertheless, we will continue our work to improve cross-strait relations and participate in international affairs to a greater extent. This will help foster a peaceful external environment and improve overall competitiveness for Taiwan. A “golden decade” can then commence for a strong Taiwan well connected to the Asia-Pacific and the world.

For Taiwan news, editorials, feature articles and more, please go to Taiwan Today.

France: Exploring the Chateaux of the Loire Valley

By Patricia E. Keegan

Traveling through France’s ever-changing countryside brings unexpected pleasures. For like no other country in the world -- thanks to the French Impressionists -- we have prior knowledge of its exquisite landscape. The colors of the French landscape evoke memories of the first time I stood in a doorway at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, surrounded by the works of Monet, Renoir, Morisot and Pissarro. Without moving, I looked from one to the other in awe; I felt as though I was being transported to a new plateau of awareness.

Throughout the Loire Valley, a myriad of vivid images unfold, all familiar subjects from the Impressionist era. Along country roads and byways nothing has changed. The barns, the golden fields, the villages look the same as the late 19th century. The passage of time has only measured by the changing light between sunrise and sunset when those great masters, were able to capture the image of an object, as one would see it if they caught just a glimpse. Without detail, but with bold colors, they showed the transient effects of light and color, thereby connecting our souls to the land in an eternally new way.

From Paris to Amboise

From Charles de Gaulle Airport, my husband and I drove our rented Peugeot to Amboise, a small town on the Loire several hours south of Paris. Always endeavoring to travel light, we made do with two carry-on bags and a large manila envelope filled with maps and books -- enough information to comb the countryside from north to south. All we really needed was a good map and the excellent travel guide: French Hotels, Inns and Other Places by British writer Allister Sawaday.

Although the drive was long, especially after a sleepless night crossing the Atlantic, it was worth every mile when we caught sight of our first French chateau (castle), the beautiful chateau of Amboise. Situated high on a bluff overlooking the Loire River, rooftops and graceful bridges, it’s no wonder that this was Catherine de Medici’s favorite home.

A Brief History of the Chateaux of the LoireValley

Exploring the chateaux of the Loire opens our minds to an historic era from 1418 to 1517 when the earliest influences of the French Renaissance began to take root, but didn’t actually flourish until the 16th century. To visit this region and see, first-hand, the breathtaking beauty, the variety of immense structures, the great works of art, the bountiful treasures, and to follow in the footsteps of a string of historic characters including Joan of Arc and Louis XIV, is a giant step toward cultural enrichment.

It was purely by chance that in 1418, during the Hundred Year’s War, the dauphin of France, (the future Charles VII), fleeing from hoards of Burgundians, found a refuge in Bourges, thus beginning the lavish history of the Loire Valley as the location of royal residence. Each king was subsequently attracted by the Loire’s mild climate and sunny days, as they constructed royal chateaux along the river.

When the Hundred Years War ended in 1453, and the model of a nation came to the forefront, members of the House of Valois, returning from the wars in Italy, found that ideas of 'residence' and 'court' were no longer the same. Their castles, until then little more than crude strongholds, had lost their 'raison d’être.' A new era of peace was beginning and, with the invention of artillery, the seemingly impregnable walls were now merely fragile screens.

Charles VIII, Louis XII and Francis I all played roles in assimilating the Italian model in which royal power was no longer measured by armed might, but by elegance, ostentation and pride in culture. The wealthy spent daily life immersed in luxury, outdoing each other in spectacular flamboyance and being noticed. The influence of Italian culture had breached French society. When Charles VIII returned from Naples in 1495, Italian artists followed. Medieval fortresses were opened up and light was finally allowed to enter. Along with the art of living well, gardening became a new art form. The chateaux softened their overpowering magnitude by adding fountains, ornamental waterworks, and sculpted hedges alternating with colorful flowerbeds. All this becomes spectacularly alive for visitors to the Loire Valley today, which has a total of 25 magnificent chateaux.

Amboise -- Burial Site of Leonardo da Vinci

Climbing to the highest turret of the royal chateau of Amboise, and looking across the steep, slanted rooftops to the winding ribbon of the silvery Loire, it’s not hard to see why this was the favorite abode of many kings. It was Charles VIII, from 1483 -1498, who gradually changed Amboise into a dwelling suitable for the tastes and needs of his royal guests. In the following years, arts and letters were held in high esteem. Then tragedy befell the young King Charles, whose health had been fragile since he returned from Italy. He hit his head on a low doorway as he was taking his Queen, Anne of Brittany, to watch a ball game. He died a few hours later. A year later Anne married Louis XII and moved to Paris. Amboise was idle from 1499 -1515 until Francis I succeeded to the throne. Along with a new vibrancy, he brought one of the greatest artistic geniuses of all time, his friend, Leonardo da Vinci. Francis I, with the help of Leonardo, developed the style and grace, not only of Amboise, but also of his other chateaux: Blois, Chambord and Fountainbleau.

Leonardo lived in Amboise for four years where his talents flourished. He organized sumptuous fetes and royal ceremonies that included the baptism of the dauphin and the famous wedding design for Lorenzo de Medici. Although he had only lived in Amboise for four years, his actual residence was in Close-Luce near Amboise. In 1519 he died there, reportedly in the arms of Francis I, who had hastened to his bedside. As requested in his last testament, he was buried in Amboise.

A vist to the tomb of Leonardo da Vinci, in the Chapelle Saint Hubert overlooking city and countryside, feels like an honor. The lovely chapel looks like a miniature cathedral with vivid stained glass windows, a small nave, and fireplaces in each arm of the transept.

Traveling Along the Loire

From Amboise we headed west to the heart of chateau country, our goal was to visit as many as possible in our allotted six days. Opting for the scenic route, we traveled across flat land, through small, quiet villages without a living soul in sight. The character of the village’s starkly simple buildings, with steep slated rooftops, was softened by the splash of color from flower boxes in windows. Our directions took us across wooden bridges and down country lanes until we arrived at Le Moulin de Saint Jean, recommended in Sawaday’s book as a 'deliciously watery home.'

Le Moulin is a restored mill on its own small island, where the old mill wheel churns the water all day long. We met the proprietor, Sue, in the cozy kitchen where she was busily preparing the evening meal. Out appetites were stirred by the tantalizing aroma of baked breads and apple pies wafting around her. A warm, open-hearted English women, Sue, with her partner Andrew, discovered the mill in its unique and charming setting while traveling through France on holiday. It was for sale. They fell in love with the mill and its surroundings and, a few months later, returned bag and baggage from England, bought it and moved in.

Dinner was superb, shared at a long table with eight other guests, ranging from a college professor to a cross-country cyclist, all British. The atmosphere at Le Moulin is relaxed and casual. The house and its six guestrooms exude a welcoming, homelike feeling.

Le Moulin de St Jean offers Bed and Breakfast for 72-84 Euros, no credit cards accepted. Dinner, including aperitif, wine, coffee and dessert is just 25 Euros.

The Spectacular Gardens of Villandry

Taking the helpful suggestions of John, the English professor, we headed towards Villandry, first of the three major chateaux we wanted to visit. The other two, Chenonceau and Chambord, are the most famous and largest of the 25.

Villandry is an elegant Renaissance chateau standing not far from the Loire; the site where King Henry II of England, and Phillip Agustus, King of France, met to discuss their differences on July 4, 1189. A few centuries later it became the property of Jean le Breton, an architect and minister for Francis I. In 1536 the King put Jean le Breton in charge of construction of the royal palaces of Fountainbleau and Chambord, as well as Villandry. At Villandry he set out to build a palace just the opposite of the foreboding feudal castles.

After razing older structures, a new plan was designed in a U-shape around a court of honor facing the Loire Valley. The two large L-shaped wings have typically Renaissance elements. Partially surrounded by a moat, the castle was landscaped with large gardens laid out on three different levels.

At the first sight of Villandry we were transfixed by the size and beauty of the landscaped gardens, set on three terraced levels. Inspired by Italian Renaissance gardens, the French gardens were designed larger with hedges instead of perimetral walls. Convenient avenues run along the flowerbeds where low hedge borders set off the decorative plants. Water is collected on the uppermost terrace, a middle terrace lies on the same plane as the rooms and the upper terrace extends to a wood of tall trees.

Standing on the middle terrace looking across the lush wide expanse of park, we see the ornamental gardens dubbed the 'gardens of love.' The large squares of boxed shrubs and flowers form motifs which symbolize the allegories of love, from the blood-red heart shapes to yellow and orange masks worn at balls. The gardens create their own geometrical motifs with colors provided by the leaves of cabbages, carrots, beets and lettuce. The gnarled branches of apple and pear trees, laden with fruits, define and separate the beds. Strolling through these magnificent gardens, in the bright sunshine, is an exhilarating experience, much like walking through an open-air art museum.

Each day around noontime, we took out our Sawaday guide to look for a place to stay. Stopping at a village pay phone, we sometimes called two or three recommendations and had good luck in finding what we wanted. Following our map and directions in the guide, we discovered more of the lovely French countryside each day. We stopped at village markets, cafes, and a few wineries along the way to enjoy Loire’s famous vintages and conversations with proprietors.

La Fleuray Hotel, near tiny Cangey, seemed to be in the middle of nowhere. Sawaday said, 'It was perfect if you had a helicopter or a hot air balloon.' After a few wrong turns, La Fleuray appeared, a handsome, old manor house in the middle of golden fields of hay. Our room, large and fresh, was in the new section of a renovated barn. Decorated in yellow, it seemed to match the outside environment of flowers and fields with horizon views in all directions.

Proprietors Peter and Hazel Newington work as a team, Peter greets guests and Hazel manages the kitchen. The dining room is elegant, the cuisine excellent, and the service by young French students is tres efficient.

La Fleuray Hotel, with 14 rooms, is priced at 68-100 Euros per night. Breakfast is 9 Euros, dinner is 26.

Chenoceau -- Dream Castle Lying Still in the Past

From La Fleuray we traveled to Chenoceau, one of the largest and most beautiful of all the chateaux. It was originally built in 1243 as a defensive fortress surrounded by moats joined to the banks of the river Cher with a swing bridge. Transformed in 1512 to correspond with the latest Renaissance mode, the only part that remains of the medieval section is the tower of the keep set in front of the castle.

Chenoceau was the scene of hunts on horseback, fetes, suppers and intellectual activities, but it was also filled to the brim with betrayal and intrigue. When Francis I visited, he brought Queen Eleanor, his son Henry, Catherine di Medici, his mistress, Anne de Piseleau, lady of Heuilly, and the infamous Diane de Saint Vallier de Poitier, his son’s mistress.

The interior of the castle is sumptuous, and by comparison, light and airy. Standing in Catherine di Medici’s bedroom, you feel the stillness of time passed but seeming to stand for a moment within the four walls of this very private abode. Rooms and boudoirs are intact with rich furnishings. The works of art are stunning throughout the entire castle. The tiny chapel houses a beautiful Carrera marble sculpture of the Virgin and Child. One can visit the gallery with its great paintings by artists; Rubens, Primaticcio, Van Loo, Mignard, Nattier, and many portraits of Louis XIV adorn the walls of the chateau.

Before leaving the castle we took a trip down the spiral staircase to the basement kitchens in which the original cooking area is characterized by a unique, ingenious spit above the stove and long wooden tables for food preparations.

Chateau Chambord -- A Renaissance Masterpiece

Although Cheneceau was my favorite chateau, Chambord stands as one of the loveliest in the Loire Valley, a masterpiece in Renaissance style. The land was the property of the counts of Blois, Champagne, and Chatillon from the 10th century on. This elegant chateau was built by Francis 1, successor to Louis X11, who came to the throne in 1515 at the age of 20, bringing ideas he had garnered from his time spent in northern Italy. As a great patron of the arts and sciences and, as we recall from Amboise, he succeeded in bringing, Leonardo da Vinci with him from Italy. An analysis of the structures found in the archives do not name any of the architects but find the profound influence of Leonardo da Vinci on the design on Chambord

The king’s desire was to fuse the elements of Italian Renaissance architecture with those of the French tradition. As we see from a distance, the building looks arabesque, the upper part of the keep is crowded with dormer windows with Italianate classicizing superstructures, by small towers, pavilions and elegant chimney decorations with columns, salamanders, miniature pediments, and geometric designs in slate applied to give a two color effect similar to that of the Italian monuments.

In 1947, the state began restoration and today the chateau contains furnishings, including tapestries in the room of Louis XIV, and portraits including the portraits of Henry III and Anne of Austria. Other rooms contain objects which belonged to the Duke of Bordeaux, the Comte of Chambord and last legitimate claimant to the throne of France. The ground floor contains an exhibit of the carriages built by Hermes in 1871, which were never used. They were to have served the Comte de Chambord in making his entrance into the capital to accede to the throne

The chateaux of the Loire Valley stand as extraordinary witnesses of times gone by and gems to a glorious epoch.

France -- An Ever-Unfolding Gift for the Senses

Every mile traveled in France’s unspoiled countryside brings something new ahead. Each region has its distinct character and its own cuisine. A quick side trip into Burgundy produced an entirely new landscape with more hills and rich, fertile soil. One evening we traveled down a country road watching the sunset splash the sky with pastel colors while in the foreground fields of sunflowers, 10 feet tall, nodded their robust heads into the roadway. On the opposite side bundles of ripe grapes, heavy on the vine, spilled invitingly across our path.

In Burgundy we discovered small cities steeped in history and culturally vibrant; Beaune, Villazey and Auxerre.

My first encounter with Auxerre was love at first sight. For a busy city its ambience exudes a relaxed balance of business and pleasure. The river Yonne is the dynamic personality of the city. Its geographical position is centered at the meeting point of roads and navigable waterways. During the first century AD, the river Yonne was a blessing for both man and trade, it was crossed by the Agrippian Way linking the Mediterranean and the North Sea.

Today we see the river is busy with pleasure craft, and along its banks there is a winding bike path. Standing on a bridge over the Yonne, looking in all directions, I get a sense of the history of this great city of castles and cathedrals. Saint Etienne, a spectacular cathedral, stands nobly on a hill. Towards the end of the third century invading Germanic tribes caused the majority of Gallic towns to surround themselves with protective walls. Auxerre withdrew to a fortified hill.

The advent of Christianity to Gaul was marked in Auxerre by the construction of the cathedral in the 5th century. The most famous Auxerre bishop was undoubtedly Saint Germain (418-448). A holy man, but also a skilled organizer, he initiated the movement to build monasteries which soon surrounded the city, forming ‘holy walls’ around Auxerre.

Auxerre is the second largest city in Burgundy and hosts major cultural events throughout the year. In 1995 it was awarded the title of ‘City of Art and History'. It is a city, though encountered only briefly, makes the kind of impression that one feels the need to know it well, and find a reason to return to again and again

GETTING THERE -- Air France from Washington Dulles departs at 5:15 pm, arriving in Paris at 6:30 the following morning. The second flight departs Dulles at 10:35 pm arriving in Paris 11:50 the following morning.

FROM PARIS -- The first flight daily departs Charles de Gaulle at 10:30 arriving in Dulles at 4:20 pm the same day. The second flight departs Paris at 1:05 pm, arriving Dulles at 6:55 pm the same day.

Kerry, Ireland -- Blessed by the Gods

By Patricia Keegan

County Kerry has more drama in every square acre than any of Ireland’s other 32 counties. If I were mother of Ireland, instead of daughter, I would probably say each county has its own particular beauty, declining the notion of having a favorite. Admittedly fickle, for years I loved Donegal, but a multitude of recently built, little white holiday homes have disrupted its former expanse of untamed glory.

On a visit to Northern Ireland one springtime, I toured County Antrim for the first time and was constantly jumping out of the car, chasing across stone walls with my camera, trying to capture images of baby lambs frolicking alongside rippling streams. Antrim is heart-stoppingly beautiful.

Then there is the rugged landscape of proud Connemara -- its storm torn face seems to say, like the kings of old:

‘I, bold Connemara can withstand the savagery of life; never defeated, each challenge adds more beauty to my soul.’

North, South, East or West, there is hardly a place in this tiny island of Ireland that has not been blessed by the gods.

Feasting at the banquet table of landscapes in the Kenmare Bay, Beara Peninsula, and West Cork areas is like finding an infinitesimal corner in this immense world where peace has flourished since ancient times.

Springtime in Tousist

Tousist is a small rural area on the Beara Peninsula. Outside of its distinctive beauty, it has only a post office and a phone booth to mark its existence. We arrived at our rented cottage in the evening.

In Tousist, as Ireland sleeps, the sea spreads like a shimmering satin sheet under a star-studded sky. From the encircling land, dark as the night, comes the sound of animals -- the baa-aa of sheep echo and re-echo against the silence. There is the intermittent bleat --a goat trying to get a word into the conversation. Right next to our doorstep, I hear horses munching on the rich, green pasture. Although hidden behind the bushes, I can feel their presence. Sally, Molly and her 3-day-old foal -- just christened Shola. Since arriving at the farmside cottage, I have found great delight in watching the three horses. Sallie, a dazzling white, solidly strong, Irish draught horse was peering curiously over the fence when we arrived. I went to say hello.

At first she didn’t respond; I waited, she gradually moved closer. I reached out to stroke her nose and immediately sensed the combination of power and calm of her inner world. Her huge eyes looked at me from shining pools of gentleness. This creature of elegant and noble bearing was no ordinary horse -- she seemed to have stepped straight from Celtic mythology. She could have been the reincarnation of Niamh’s white, enchanted steed of the Sidhe, upon which Oisin traveled from the otherworld of Tir Na Nog, (The land of Youth) back to Ireland.

As dawn comes to Tousist, I emerge from dreams to hear the sound of birds singing, and hoof beats like heartbeats thumping rhythmically on the grass outside our window. Sally, Molly and Shola are already awake and on their morning jaunt. With a cup of coffee, I observe from the kitchen window. The young foal Shola is growing stronger each day. Her gangly legs are like long, white stilts holding up a short body. Her ears and both eyes are brown-splashed. An unusual, dappled brown and white coat ends in a puffy black tail. Her cute face has a mischievous look.

Dan and Kathleen, the proud owners, tell us that she is a valuable horse who is destined to be a great jumper. Now, after only five days of life, she lies sleeping in the sun. As she awakens she looks first to the security of her mother, then struggles to her knees until she is standing. Then, as though to confirm her physical boundaries, she stomps a back hoof. Reassured of her balance, she moves closer to Mollie to suckle. Sally hovers nearby. Fascinated by the foal, she would like to play, but as she moves near Shola, Molly is alerted and immediately steers Shola away. Trust comes only after the seventh day when the distance between Mollie and her foal begins to widen. Now Sally is not isolated from the playful baby anymore.

Kenmare -- The Axis of Beauty

The bustling town of Kenmare, with 2,000 inhabitants at the mouth of Kenmare Bay, is situated only 10 miles from Tousist and is one of the prettiest and classiest towns in Ireland. With its busy streets and gaily painted facades, its exudes brightness and optimism. This dynamic town has at least five gourmet restaurants, two silversmiths, arts and crafts shops, pubs offering nightly entertainment and some of the best accommodations one can find in Ireland. The Park Hotel at the top of the main street, like the town, has won numerous awards for originality and excellence. Kenmare sits on a pot of gold at the center of one of Ireland’s most spectacular destinations.

Looking at a map of southwest Ireland, you see two peninsulas jutting into the Atlantic Ocean, the well known Ring of Kerry and, just below, the smaller Beara Peninsula. On this trip my husband and I decided to explore the Beara Peninsula, where we visited caves and reveled in unspoiled, rugged beauty with waves crashing on steep cliffs. The entire area is rich in dolmens, pre-Christian forts, ogham stones, and sacred wells. The first Celtic finds in the Kenmare area date to 1800-2000 BC. It is accepted that Christianity reached Ireland’s southwest before the arrival of St. Patrick, and there are artifacts as evidence in the National Museum. Beara Island, just off the coast, is an idyllic paradise filled with birds, wildflowers and a few houses.

Epiphany on a Mountain in Ardgroom

It is only May, and too cold to swim, but hiking in Kerry is the epitome of being in touch with nature. Springtime in Ireland comes with the vigor of a repressed artist pouring color across the land. Green fields are filled with a profusion of bluebells, the blazing yellow gorse appears on country lanes; it climbs hills and seems to replace the sun when it disappears behind a cloud.

Hiking mountains and visiting sheltered lakes along the dramatic Healy Pass brought me an unexpected surprise. At 6 p.m., the sunlight, like a lantern held in the hand of an angel, began to spotlight perfection. With a sense of being lighter than air, I climbed to the top of a mountain near Ardgoom. Stopping to rest, I sat in the grass looking down on the plains of the valley I had just crossed. In the distance, the central point of the sunrays illuminated a dark, green field filled with grazing sheep and baby lambs. The southwest sky was cloudless. Climbing higher, and finally reaching the top of the mountain, I fell onto the soft grass, exhausted. From there I could see all the features that make this island of Ireland so distinctively beautiful. Pink streaks in the sky were beginning to give hints of sunset.

As I sat there surveying the world, I thought of the Jungian theory of the “Collective Unconscious.” It was as though I was on the threshold of immense wealth, reaching for a connection to some distant memory. This nostalgia was apparently bubbling up from the reservoir accumulated in the long lineage of my Irish ancestry.

A flock of small birds flying in circles and loops seemed to be rejoicing in the advent of spring. On another mountain a far-off lake mirrored the sky. All was at peace. Gradually, I began to feel the joy of intimacy with this land, which has always seemed to speak to me. Now it was telling me: ‘This is your land, the land of your forefathers. You are wrapped in the spirit of this land of Ireland. You may forsake, but it will never forsake you.’

In that moment, had I been some creature in Celtic mythology, I would have sprouted wings and soared. Instead, being a mere mortal, I looked down the other side of the mountain and perceived that the challenge was not over. I was facing a rocky descent with a flowing river at the bottom. Undaunted, with total trust in the land and a new sense of exuberance, I resorted to my skiing experience. After a few slips and slides, I gradually traversed the steep, rocky slope until I reached the bottom. There I stood for a moment, looking back with reverence and awe at my mountain. The scent of the grass, the rippling river, and the dancing wildflowers had all reconnected me with the freedom of childhood and renewed a great sense of belonging.

For those who have always promised themselves a trip to Ireland, the southwest coast, including the Kerry and Beara Penninsulas, have all the attributes of drama and history that make this corner of Ireland choice number one.

Getting There: From Shannon Airport, its a comfortable 3-hour drive to the charms of the Beara Peninsula. Check out Dooley Car Rentals, a friendly, service-oriented company, with all-inclusive weekly rates, including tax and insurance, priced in dollars! They have 15 Irish locations, a wide selection and competitive rates. Tel: 800-331-9301.

Paris -- Falling in Love Again!

By Patricia Keegan

In our tit for tat with the French, we can change French fries to 'freedom fries,' curtail our imports of French wines and restrain ourselves from visiting France. We can toss our heads and do everything possible to let the French know how we feel about their lack of support for the Iraq war, but can we wrap up the Statue of Liberty and send it back? This statue that brings tears to the eyes of its beholder was created by the French and gifted to America on July 4, 1875. Can we return that symbol of our long alliance and say, like a scorned lover, that we don't want your precious gift anymore. Ironically, the original title of the statue was 'Liberty Enlightening the World.'

One hundred and twenty-eight years later, the world has not reached enlightenment, and we find George Bush and Jacques Chirac at different stages along this ever-elusive path.

So suffice it to say, 'Vive la difference.' History will deliver its own judgement, we will keep this proud statue and, in the meantime, my niece Diana and I, unrestrained, are on our way to Paris to enjoy life.

Le Tour de France: Lance Armstrong Rides to Victory

After landing in Paris we took the convenient Roissey bus into the city. Disembarking at the magnificent Opera House, we headed for the Ambassador Hotel, a member of the Concorde Group (see Hotel Spotlight). Rolling our suitcases along the Boulevard Haussmann, named after the architect of Paris -- admiring its architecture, wrought iron terraces and huge wooden doors -- we were also distracted by the magnetic attraction of the new fall fashion display at the Galleries Lafayette. We promised ourselves a visit later.

Arriving in Paris the day before the final lap of the Tour de France, our overriding goal was to find the best spot to watch American hero Lance Armstrong ride down the Champs Elysees on Sunday afternoon.

The next morning, fighting off jet lag, Diana and I found our way to an excellent spot on the sidewalk at Champs- Elysees, with a clear view down the wide boulevard to the ferris wheel at the Place de la Concorde.

The air was filled with a lively suspense. Spanish fans waving flags and chanting 'Viva Espana' were being shouted down by flag-waving Italians on the other side of the wide avenue. American flags were well represented, even by those who appeared to be French. According to a Le Monde report, Lance Armstrong was asked about the hordes of fans carrying American flags along the route.

'Many times you get next to them, and it's a French person. It's strange, but it happens. I can't complain about that kind of support, it's very much appreciated.'

He had spoken often about the need to repair the strained relationship between the US and France. Armstrong is a winner on two levels, as both a champion cyclist and a valiant survivor of cancer who has brought even more interest to the Tour and who appears to have won the hearts of the French. The most common description you hear is, 'Un grand monsieur,' a class act, and they say if he wins, he deserves it.

Advertisers sailed by on floats, the Smart Car rolled by in every color imaginable. There is a long wait, followed by the loud sputtering of police on motorcycles scanning the crowd on both sides of the avenue. Shortly afterwards they came like a swarm of bees together, riding silently, as though on air, helmets disguising their individuality. They were all there, in a tight group, and in the middle rode the hero, Lance Armstrong, distinguishable in his yellow shirt. The crowd cheered with enthusiasm and in seconds they were gone. But nobody minded waiting to catch another glimpse when they came around again in 20 minutes. The sun beamed down and all seemed right with the world.

Later, festivities continued at the Arc de Triomphe with billowing clouds of play smoke, yellow representing the winner, punctuated by bursts of pinks and blues. Gyrating gymnasts jumping, twirling and dancing to live music. Cyclists showing every imaginable and daring possibility between rider and bicycle. Ah, Paris is the place to be tonight!

Losing the Eiffel Tower

Later that evening, in our hotel hopping enterprise among the Concorde Hotels, (two days in each of their three finest hotels), we moved from The Ambassador to the Lutetia on the Left Bank. (See more in Hotel Spotlight).

Walking into our room at the Lutetia, Diana and I were blown away by the sight of the Eiffel Tower framed in our window. We saw it alight with its post-millennium sparkles, a dancing mass of white stars flowing up and down. Dropping our suitcases in a corner, we decided we couldn't retire for the night until we walked to the Eiffel Tower. It was a greater distance than we had reckoned. Walking in the general direction of the tower, down narrow streets with hardly a person around, we kept losing it behind high buildings. We stopped friendly gendarmes with little round hats to explain our plight. They took maps from back pockets and explained they were only in town for the Tour de France and didn't know Paris. When we finally reached the famous tower, we fell, exhausted, onto the park lawn beneath what looked like a gigantic erector set. We lay there taking time to study the genius of the myriad of interweaving iron, softened by thousands of lights.

The Eiffel Tower was built in 1889 in preparation for the World's Fair. It was designed by Gustave Eiffel who also designed the complex structure of the Statue of Liberty. This world wide symbol of France was not meant to be permanent. Constructed like a large pylor, 300 meters high, with four columns of lattice work, it is separated at the wide base and comes together at the narrow top. Although it is airy and wind resistant, this can also make it quite cold when you wait for the second elevator, half way up, on a cool windy day. On this lovely summer evening we stayed, hypnotized by the lights, until after midnight. Looking around, it could have been late afternoon, we watched people milling about in an aura of great tranquillity. Yes, Paris is the place to be tonight.

George Bush and Mona Lisa

I love Leonardo da Vinci's painting of the Mona Lisa, circa 1503. But the first time I saw it was right out of high school when I was too young to fully appreciate it. Standing in front of the world famous painting then, I could only wonder what all the fuss was about.

Years later, having gained some understanding of the difficulty in becoming a good artist, much less great artist, and having traversed life's vicissitudes as a woman, I stood in front of the painting once again, and was stirred deeply, to the point of tears. She seemed to look at me with a mind of her own. How could the artist create anything so enigmatic? Every time I looked back at her, the expression seemed to change. Was she smiling? I actually felt goose bumps. She is virtually alive! I knew now what all the fuss is about.

Da Vinci is said to have loved the painting so much that he had carried it with him everywhere, until eventually in France, he sold it to Francis I.

Looking around, I wondered if anyone else was so touched. Without making any judgements, this time I decided to conduct a few interviews to hear what people thought about the Mona Lisa. So with pen and paper, I approached a few visitors to the Louvre and tried to keep my question simple, asking if the Mona Lisa had lived up to their expectations, or were they disappointed. In conducting these interviews, I received far more information then I had anticipated.

'Much smaller than I expected,' commented a young man from Arizona who was waiting for the crowd to disperse for a better view.

'There are hundreds of paintings in this museum just as good. In fact,' said an Englishman with his wife by his side, 'Many of da Vinci's other paintings are better than this one. Rumors spread, people hear about the Mona Lisa, and they come here to the Louvre just to see this one painting.'

'It's too green, too dark; she is quite pretty, but not that exciting,' his wife interrupts, pulling him along.

'I was expecting something larger,' says a tall, young blonde from Hungary, walking with her girlfriend. Then with a laugh and a swish of ponytail, she adds, 'The Mona Lisa is not sexy, not attractive, and in my opinion the whole painting needs more color.' Her friend agrees, and they move on.

A woman from Texas, Anne, and her teenage son, Derek, stopped by. 'I really like the eyes on this painting, you can stand anywhere in the room and they follow you. She looks like the Madonna. I think you are the only American I have met in Paris,' said Anne.

She continued, 'You know when I told one of my neighbors I was going to Paris, she told me she was boycotting France. Her friends are too. I can't believe what is happening in America. I think we are acting foolishly. We need a different President with a different attitude, we need to study our place in the world and not get into expansionism.'

'Whoops,' I thought, this is not quite the direction I wanted to take with the interview.

Endeavoring to get back on track, Anne looked again at the painting. The crowd was dense, it was becoming hot and sticky in the Louvre, and although she was smiling, she responded a little wearily.

'Actually I think this painting is overrated. I know it's supposed to be great, but I can't see it.'

'I agree with the Dixie Chicks,' said her son, clearly uninterested in talking about the painting. 'But look what happened to them.'

'We are heading toward McCarthyism,' said Anne, animated again. 'We are living in a democracy, but you can't actually speak your mind. Nine eleven was terrible, but now we are going to extremes rounding up innocent people. Ashcroft is too much. It's a scary thing, but I'm glad I came to France.'

Anne and Derek said goodbye and moved on, but just before disappearing in the crowd, she shouted back, 'You probably won't see any more Americans here.'

A young girl, Sima, from Israel, smiled and offered her opinion. 'I don't know much about the painting, it seems well balanced and I like how her eyes follow you,' she said softly.

'How are you enjoying Paris?' I couldn't help asking.

'I love being in Paris. Things are good in Israel right now, (July 31), but all it will take is one explosion, one bomb, and everything will come down again.'

The crowd cleared for a moment and a Japanese girl wearing a wide, flared skirt, swirled next to the painting, while her boyfriend took her photo. 'Now look at her,' said an Englishman at my elbow, pointing his chin at the smiling Japanese girl. 'She thinks she is better than the Mona Lisa.'

'It's the smile that made it so famous, isn't it?' said his wife, continuing to ponder the painting. 'It's the known factor, isn't it?' she went on. 'I don't know what is behind that smile, but I'm English. We noticed those Italian women over there; they all want their photos taken with the Mona Lisa. They probably know more about the painting than we do.'

The Italian ladies group, art aficionados, told me they did not like being with so many other visitors. 'The Mona Lisa is just an emblem for tourists,' said one of them, rolling her eyes. 'I don't know if people come just because of the media attention or because they really like art.' She leaned forward to whisper, 'There are too many tourists here. It doesn't even smell so good. The museum should program the entrance so that people have more time to really see the Mona Lisa.'

'She not only looks serene, she is serene,' said another emphatically. 'It's the way we all want to be,' said another. They all nodded their heads in agreement.

I don't know what Leonardo, the universal genius, who ushered in the art of the High Renaissance, would have to say about all this, but he probably was quite accustomed and oblivious to it all.

Parisian Evenings to Remember

A visit to the famous Moulin Rouge, a magnet for tourists, should not be missed if you enjoy cabaret. The Montmartre cabaret club opened in 1889 and was immortalized by painter Henri deToulouse –Lautrec. A parade of international stars have performed there including Edith Piaf, Maurice Chevalier, Frank Sinatra, Liza Minelli, and Elton John.

Tonight it's the razzle dazzle of the Ferrie, a troupe with over 100 artists and the 60 dancing Doriss Girls doing the fabulous Can Can. Bursting with infectious energy, it was easy for the audience to get swept up in with the talented, topless dancers decked out in thousands of feathers, sequins, rhinestones and net stockings, and wearing the perfect dancing shoes -- spiked heels. According to a press release, the girls all have to be 5 foot 8 and have astounding figures that will leave the audience spellbound!

The orchestra was fantastic, the audience was attentive and the bottles of champagne, on every table, added to the bubbling exuberance of it all.

Flying Over the Edge

A visit to the Jardin des Tuileries and the amusement park at night offers the child inside an opportunity to burst free and enjoy the frothy side of Paris. The Ferris wheel makes a half turn and stops. I am suspended over Paris. I can see it all -- towers, domes, chimneys, the Obelisk and all the rooftops of Paris. Then I am spun faster and faster, counterclockwise in a rainbow of pastel lights towards the heavens where a sliver of new moon has just appeared. I am spinning to earth again, skimming a carpet of Parisian lights. Around and around, I am spun in circles of light. My heart sings, 'Ah, Paris is the place to be tonight.'

Flinging caution to the wind, Diana and I decide to ride the bumper cars. One glance at the clientele, hyperactive, rowdy boys, should have discouraged me, but we bought two tickets and jumped in. Yes, we laughed, as we dashed and ducked defensively, but the laugh didn't last long. They suddenly descended on us -- the wild boys! We spun and pitched and got clobbered so badly that the Boss came by in his car to break up the melee and free us again for travel.

Walking away, a bit wobbly from that mildly traumatic experience, we watched a girl with a blue balloon, sailing high above us in the swinging chairs. Stretching her arms out, hair sweeping behind, one could sense her delight: she is flying, and she knows it!

We pause awhile to watch the tiny children riding a merry-go-round. One little girl, her bottom lip trembling, holds on with two hands to the head of a huge yellow duck. Another girl, riding a long-necked giraffe, has one hand out catching the wind. We hear screams coming from the Ejector where a crowd is shouting, 'Come on USA.' A couple of young men have just landed and are unfastening their seat belts. They walk toward the crowd, a bit weak-kneed, heads down. Then two brave, young lassies strap themselves in. We headed back to our hotel as they were lifted 30 feet in the air and tumbled upside down.

A Visit to the Palace of Versailles

We took the RER from the Hotel Lutetia to the Royal Palace of Versailles and walked to the main entrance. I had dreamed of it once, but in the dream the beautiful, immense wrought iron gates were closed, I could't get in. Today they're wide open, and the first sight of the palace is breathtaking. It is the most famous garden-palace combination in Europe, possibly the world. It marks the flowering of the era of French baroque. The museum is known as the centerpiece of the empire of the Sun King, Louis XIV, and inside, immortalized, we see his portrait everywhere.

Originally built as a hunting lodge for members of royalty, it lies within 45minutes travel distance from the cultural capital of Paris. It was constructed at the dawn of the 17th century. Around the 1680's, King Louis moved the base of the French monarchy from Paris to Versailles. After the French revolution (1789-1799), which terminated the reign of Louis XVI, all the furnishings and decor were sold and the palace was converted into a museum.

Along with the immense art collection and some original antiques, the Hall of Mirrors made me gasp when I stepped in. The hall remains as it was in royal times. As in the observation and appreciation of the Mona Lisa at the Louvre, to really feel the ambience, to get a true sense of the space and the reflections from the mirrors, one would like to be here almost alone. However, even with the crowd of tourists, it was impressive.

Although it was raining outside, from the windows, Diana and I could see and admire the vastness and beauty of the elaborate gardens adorned with a myriad of monuments and graceful sculptures.

Sacre Coeur and the Artists of Montmartre

We moved from the Lutetia to the beautiful Hotel Du Louvre, and were thrilled to find ourselves in a most unique setting, our room was scarlet and our windows overlooked the quadrangle of the Musee Louvre (see Hotel Spotlight). Becoming accustomed to using the Metro, we took it out to Montmartre and walked through its charming, winding streets filled with boutiques, restaurants and art galleries. We climbed the long way up the steps to the white Roman-Byzantine cupolas of the Sacre-Coeur, and as I stood on the top step and looked at the white dome and towers, it reminded me of the Taj Mahal.

The church was built between 1875 and 1914 as atonement for the massacred victims of the 1871 Franco-Prussian War. It was the dream of two Catholic businessmen, Alexandre Legentil and Rohault de Fleury, who made a vow, at the outbreak of the Prussian War, to build a church to honor the Sacred Heart of Jesus. Just as the Sacre Coeur was completed, the Germans invaded and it wasn't consecrated until 1919, after World War I.

The area around the church is also the site of at least 100 working artists, whom some call fake artists. But many are really good at portraiture and have some excellent oil paintings of the church for sale. The artists seemed a little hungry for business this year. One long-haired artist pulled a reluctant golden Spaniel onto his lap, and when I held up my camera for a photo, he shouted gruffly, 'You pay me!' Diana sat for a charcoal portrait, but the result was overworked and unprofessional.

Paris Moonlight, Bridges and La Plage along the Seine

On our last evening in Paris we met Sophie, our Parisian friend, aboard the new, restaurant boat Planet sur Seine, docked at the Invalides Bridge along the Seine. The owner decided that Parisians needed a fun place to go and dine during the month of August, when most have left on holidays. Guests were milling about the bar, in casual elegance, sipping champagne. Oriental rugs were spread across the deck, and the fading light was just beginning to splash shadows along the river. From my deck position, I had a wonderful view of Les Invalides, the most impressively scaled monument of the Rive Gauche. It was built under Louis XIV as a hospital to house 6,000 invalid soldiers. I could see the huge golden dome of the Eglise du Dome, where some of France's greatest soldiers are entombed including Emperor Napoleon I. These historic buildings along the Seine, looked their best in the last hush of evening -- shimmering, regal and magnificent. Standing in that peaceful moment of beauty, I wondered who could resist the magic of Paris, at its best on a sultry, summer evening. Lines from a Wordsworth poem came to me:

Ships, towers, domes, theaters and temples lie open to the fields and to the sky…. Dull would he be of soul who could pass by a sight so touching in its majesty.

The poet was speaking of London, of course, but Paris has a playful magic that London can't replicate.

Just before sunset, we left the ship and set out to explore the ever-lively world of Paris below the bridges. We wanted to find the Paris Plage, a unique, riverfront beach environment, complete with beach sand and palm trees, created a year ago by Bertrand Delanoe, the new mayor

We walked along the right bank from Les Invalides all the way to Notre Dame. As the evening slowly transitioned from light to dark, an even more spectacular view of Paris emerged along the banks of the Seine. We admired the amazing variety of architectural wonders lined up on the opposite bank -- the Musee D'Orsey, the Conciergerie, (the first prison in Paris), the Institute de Paris, the Assemblee Nationale, (currently housing an interesting woman's exhibit:'Mariannes of Today). Palais de Justice, and Sainte Chapelle. At one point we stopped and looked behind us at a spellbinding scene -- the curve of a bridge with several bridges in the background, the historic buildings, the boats and barges moving slowly along the water, all touched by the bright light of a strong, crescent shaped moon.

Further along, after walking beneath a bridge lit up in psychedelic blue, we arrived at La Plage. The scene changed again. A narrow embankment of sand runs alongside a promenade dotted with palm trees. The edge of the river is flanked by flags, flapping like sails in the breeze. There are showers where people can cool off when the sun is hot, without being tempted to jump into the Seine. We see a variety of picnic styles, from a wrapped sandwich, to a white tablecloth spread out with wine glasses. Catching the romantic aura of the night, a gray haired couple spontaneously stop -- pour un baiser. Everything is low key, tranquil, people talk quietly, a few have guitars, another group plays chess. We come to a small crowd standing around a young, svelte, blonde girl. Like a ballet dancer, she is whirling two ropes of fire around her body, in perfect balance, yet dangerous enough to make the crowd flinch before they erupt in applause. Ah, Paris is the place to be tonight.

Our long walk finally ended at the city's most beautiful cathedral, Notre Dame, and at the point of starvation. Considered one of the greatest achievements in Gothic architecture, it is especially inspiring in the evening light. Designed by Maurice de Sully, and built between 1163 and 1345, its massive interior can accommodate over 6000 people.

Almost exhausted, we walked from Ile de la Cite, across the Seine, to the left bank and the St. Germain array of ethnic restaurants. The variety of food possibilities in the window of a Greek restaurant led to our ordering a full banquet of shish kabob consisting of huge salmon chunks, shrimp, tomatoes, onions, aubergine, and potatoes, along with a bottle of French bordeaux.

We danced, and broke plates and wished that we could continue discovering and exploring every corner of Paris. Sophie toasted to our next visit, which could not come soon enough. Diana and I toasted all the great French people we had met, and to all the strangers in the streets who showed the utmost kindness and patience when we asked directions or practiced our meager French language skills. We added a special toast for all those Americans (50% dropoff) who had missed a chance to truly experience the joie de vivre of Paris, and hoped they would feel free to return again in the springtime.

Turkey: A Democratic, Dynamic, Transforming Country

Interview with Ambassador Namik Tan

By Alan Dessoff

Washington International (WI): What is the current relationship like between Turkey and the US?

Ambassador Tan: We have a comprehensive relationship with the US that goes back more than half a century. Turkey’s membership in NATO began the development of the relationship into a friendship, an alliance, a partnership. The United States is at the top of our foreign policy agenda. It has been tested in the pasta, but the relationship is as critically important to Turkey as it is to the US in the sense that Turkey, as a Muslim country, is a generator of peace and stability. We cherish the same values as the US does — transparency, freedom of speech, free trade, a free market economy.

WI: What are Turkey’s greatest resources, and how much has the downturn in the global economy affected your economy?

Ambassador: The figures speak for themselves. Turkey is the 17th largest economy in the world and the 6th largest in Europe. Excluding the difficult last year, when we all suffered from a global economic downturn, the Turkish economy has expanded uninterruptedly during the last six years with a 7.4 percent average growth rate, and thus achieved the highest economic growth rate among the OECD countries. With an 11.7 percent growth rate in the first quarter of 2010, Turkey ranked fifth in the world.

Turkey’s construction sector ranks second in the world, following China. There are 35 Turkish construction firms among the top 225 international companies. Turkey’s cumulative exports increased by an annual rate of 13 percent over the last nine years. Turkey’s foreign trade volume had surged to $334 million (US) by 2008. Turkey attracted some $20 billion US worth FDI annually over the last three years prior to 2009.

Last year, 27 million tourists visited Turkey, ranking our country among the top 10 tourist destinations in the world. We have the largest young population in Europe, with 65 percent under the age 34. Every year, 400,000 students graduate from 125 universities in Turkey.

Turkey is the second largest flat glass producer and the 7th largest cement producer in the world. We are the 8th largest shipbuilder and 3rd largest mega yacht producer. Turkey is the 5th ranked iron and steel producer, the largest fertilizer producer, the 6th largest automotive manufacturer, the largest bus manufacturer, and second largest light truck maker in Europe. We are the largest TV panel supplier to Europe and the second largest home appliance producer in Europe. In 2008, 18 million units of refrigerators, washing machines, ovens and dishwashers were produced in Turkey, with more than two-thirds of them exported to Europe.

Turkey is the second largest apparel and home textile supplier to Europe and fourth largest to the world. We are among the top 5 countries in global vegetable production and among the top 10 countries in fruits and crops production.

The Internet audience in Turkey is one of the most active in the world. We are the fifth largest Internet market in wider Europe. Turkey now has the third largest country presence on Facebook, behind only the US and Canada. There are 64 million cell phone subscribers in a population of 72 million. With a 90 percent of cell phone penetration rate, Turkey ranks as one of the highest in the world. Every month, more than a million cell phones are sold in the market.

Located in the vicinity of regions holding 70 percent of the world’s hydrocarbon resources, Turkey serves as a natural energy bridge between the East and West, North and South. Almost 10 percent of the world’s tradable oil will pass through Turkey once the proposed pipeline projects are realized.

Last year was a difficult one for all of us, so our economy shrank almost 30 percent altogether. But it is recovering now. In the first four months of this year, the figures show the economy is coming back and we are very happy about that. The potential is far beyond that. That is why, during our Prime Minister’s visit to the US last December, we signed a framework arrangement with the US that established a board of ministers, two from each side. These four political figures are tasked to find ways to expand even further the existing relationship between our countries. They will hold their first meeting in Washington in October. Presently, our Minister of Commerce is touring the US — Chicago, Los Angeles, Atlanta. He visited New York and Washington earlier.

We have reenergized all our agencies and businesses and they are aggressively working with their American counterparts to explore the potential of bringing our relationship with the US to new heights.

WI: To what would you attribute Turkey’s economic success?

Ambassador: We have a very young, dynamic population. They are well educated and creative. Entrepreneurship is booming in almost every sector. When President Obama had the global entrepreneurship conference, it was opened to participation of entrepreneurs from Muslim countries. He announced that the next meeting will be held in Turkey next year, because he saw the potential and the energy and the willingness and the courage of the young entrepreneurs who participated in the conference. There were many interesting projects so they attracted a lot of attention.

Having the unique ability to reach out to almost every corner of the world because of our diverse culture, we have extensive relationships. Our aim is to create a peaceful and stable neighborhood.

WI: What about trading with your neighbors?

Ambassador: Yes, we are trading with our neighbors. It is a very tough neighborhood and we have several problems in the region. We have the Iranian situation, and complications in the Caucusus. We have very serious problems in the Middle East and other complications in the Balkans. We are surrounded by complex problems.

We try to project our soft power, reaching out and engaging all our neighbors irrespective of their political orientation, or faith or beliefs. We try to engage them in some common activity. That’s how we tripled our exports in the last 5 or 6 years.

WI: Have you seen any changes in the neighborhood because of your faith?

Ambassador: That is a very good question; why are we doing this? From east to west, west to east, north to south, south to north, every part of Turkey is working to reach out to reflect the best example of a democracy in a Muslim country, which creates a lot of attention.

We have been negotiating with the EU since 2004 to become a member. Several hundred Arab and Muslim journalists from all over the world were watching this process for the first time in the history of the EU. Why? Because they wanted to see Turkey’s experience as a Muslim and Arab country. It resonates in a powerful and effective way to all those countries that want to cherish the values we cherish. Turkey, with its democracy and vibrant economy, is and will be the best example for all those countries.

This is a huge change from Turkey a decade ago. It was a different Turkey. It is entirely changed now. You see change every year. Turkey’s dynamism is changing the country. The change is not well understood in your part of the world—the vibrancy that Turkey has, when you look at other countries, even the EU members, going through a very difficult time. But Turkey, with a stable, sound economy, is there, very powerful. I think the news comes here and goes into people’s minds and memories very late. They think of Turkey as a country with old habits and practices. It’s not any more. It is a different, vibrant country.

We have been doing a great job with the US in Iraq and will continue to do that. In Afghanistan, we have helped coordinate our efforts again to bring peace and stability to the country. Turkey is a positive actor there, with the US and other NATO allies. And in the Caucuses, again we have tried hard and are still trying to find solutions to the existing problems. We’ve been doing the same things to bring together the warring parties. In the Balkans, Serbia, Bosnia, in all these areas that have complex problems, Turkey is helping. Turkey is a NATO member and a founding member of all the western institutions that you can name. And we are a member of the most of the institutions in Eurasia and a founding member of some of them. And again, we are trying to find a solution to the Palestinian-Israeli conflict. Turkey is next to no one in trying to bring these parties to a peaceful solution.

WI: Would you care to comment on the humanitarian flotilla from Turkey to Gaza that was intercepted by Israeli soldiers? And what is the current relationship between your country and Israel?

Ambassador: Well, of course, Israel made a big mistake. Turkey has always been a friend to Israel in this volatile region and is still a friend. But Israel, with this operation in international waters, they intercepted a civilian aid convoy and killed 9 Turkish civilians, including one who was an American citizen. So it really offended all the Turkish people. It can not be accepted unless they apologize for what they have done and compensate the families of the victims. This is a necessity and if they do not do it, I think our relationship will be strained. It’s already strained but will get worse, and we don’t want that. But the responsibility is not ours. They have to bear the responsibility and take the first step.

WI: They said the people were armed.

Ambassador: This can not be farther from the truth. I don’t want to go further into this tragedy, but nobody so far has proven that there were any weapons on those ships and they will never be able to do so. They were all civilians and the whole cargo was checked in Turkey. There were no weapons or devices of that sort. But anyhow, Israel is about to lose a friend.

WI: Will that affect your relationship with the US?

Ambassador: It has nothing to do with the US relationship. That is entirely separate. This is not a problem between Israel and Turkey. It is a problem between Israel and the international community. But everybody should know what we have done for Israel. We tried to find solutions for their problems with the Syrians; we mediated between Syria and Israel. So we have never had any intention to destroy our relationship with Israel. It’s the Israeli government that has taken a clumsy stance.

But we are actively working in the region to reach our common goal of bringing peace and stability and democracy to the whole neighborhood. The tool that we use is economic, commercial integration, with the countries around Turkey. Now we have a very good relationship with Russia, and good relations with Greece, Syria, Iraq and Iran. I mean in the sense that we are trying to reach them economically and on a human-to-human level, no political thing.

WI: What about sanctions against Iran?

Ambassador: Iran is our neighbor, so whatever happens there has an immediate effect on all of Turkey. This has happened in Iraq as well. In the crisis of Iraq, we paid the price, we suffered, we lost a great deal, so we don’t want a similar thing to happen to Turkey again.

So the fundamentals of our position with the US are exactly the same, 100 percent overlapping. We don’t want nuclear weapons in Iran. We are against nuclear weapons, and not only in Iran. We don’t want any nuclear weapons in our region.

We think that engagement should be the solution, especially with regards to Iran, so we fully support the engagement policy of the US. Our political leaders — our Prime Minister and Foreign Minister — have spoken to their US counterparts, President Obama and Secretary Clinton, tens of times. They have exchanged extensive information as to what we have done in trying to bring the Iranians to the negotiating table. If we want to have a sustainable peace with Iran and the international community, the only way should be finding solutions to the differences only in negotiations, not by any other means.

We see hope. We strongly believe we can deliver on this and that the international community can deliver, because we have been talking with them, we are engaging with Iran. We are telling them they should be transparent and work closely with the international bodies.

With Brazil, we signed a trilateral document that commits Iranians, for the first time in the history of the Islamic Republic of Iran, to sign a commitment. The sole aim was to create a future to have Iran negotiate with us. So we made that commitment on paper. This was an important achievement and at every step we coordinated all our efforts with the White House and State Department. They have been briefed at the highest levels by our ministers and they had several meetings. So there should be no disillusionment about Turkey’s efforts.

WI: Can you trust that Iran is not building nuclear weapons?

Ambassador: If you have prejudices or prejudgments, you cannot negotiate with anyone. We want to have them commit themselves to peaceful means so that they won’t be willing or able to develop any nuclear weapons. That’s what we are trying to do. What is engagement? It is sitting and talking with somebody. It’s a negotiation. That’s what it is. It should go on as long as the Iranians keep themselves committed to those papers that they have signed. So long as they are committed, we should follow the diplomacy track until the last moment. We have to follow it.

WI: What are the major issues right now that you are trying to deal with?

Ambassador: In our relations with the United States, my major objective is to make the American people, the American audiences, understand the new Turkey, the emerging power in Turkey. And make them understand that this is an asset to them, not a liability. It’s been seen somewhat as a sort of liability. Turkey is an asset for the West and for the United States in particular.

This is important because what I see from my post is that they have some perception gaps in their minds. I need to explain to them what Turkey is today. I try to make them understand that this is a country of enormous vibrancy.

WI: I think one of the things we as Americans are trying to understand is the possibility of Turkey changing from a secular society. You are 98 percent Muslim. Are you moving away from Ataturk?

Ambassador: That perception cannot be farther from the truth. It seems to me it is inconceivable for Turks. How can you imagine us deviating from the founding pillars of our society? Turkey is the only democratic country out of 57 with Muslim majorities. We have always had a conservative society in general, like the US. We are not so different from the US. in terms of having a conservative base. But as a democracy, we have many colors, and different levels and expressions of conservatism. We have freedoms of speech, dress, way of life. I would advise Americans to go and see Istanbul. The life and standards there are no different than in the US. There are some parts that are better than the US. Of course there is an economic disparity. That’s the way it is in a democratic society, a free market economy. There has never been radicalism, the kind of extremism. It is a society with some conservative values. That has always been, and it hasn’t changed.

WI: Are you promoting tourism from the US to Turkey?

Ambassador: Very much so, but there are some difficulties because of the recent economic downturn. But it is not so bad and is picking up again. We have some incentive programs. Turkish Airlines has done a great job. They will soon have direct flights from and to Washington, Miami and Los Angeles, with brand new 777’s they will receive soon from Boeing. They are flying now to New York and Chicago.

Turkey is among the top 10 travel destinations in the world. It is full of history. But to motivate Americans to travel to Turkey is not easy. You have 310 million people here in the U.S. and it is a vast and great country and you have everything. It takes five hours to travel across it and you have the diversity of the mountains, the valleys. We need to educate Americans more about Turkey and create more incentives, attractions. That’s what we are trying to do.

I would tell Americans that in many places in Turkey they will see a church, a chapel, a mosque and a synagogue. We once had a large Jewish presence in Turkey. Now most of them — 125,000 Turkish Jews — have emigrated to Israel. There are 35,000 left in Turkey. There once were 650 synagogues. If Americans knew this, and knew that they would see things like the mosaics that have been on display in art museums in Baltimore and Boston, and that there are thousands of them in our country, they would rush to see them. And if they knew that we have several thousand years of history.

So that is our richness. We are rich in history, in people and their backgrounds, in food. We want to share our riches, the colors of Turkey, with all our friends.

WI: There is a demonstration right now outside the Embassy over the Cyprus situation. What is the latest on the solution to that issue between the Turkish and Greek Cypriots?

Ambassador: The solution was missed a few years ago when United Nations Secretary General Kofi Annan drafted a peace effort. It was negotiated between Turkey, Greece, and the Turkish and Greek Cypriots, under his auspices and with observers from the European Union. So it reflected a very powerful consensus. That was in 2004. The Secretary General said it should be put before the people of both sides for their approval by referendum. The Turkish Cypriots said overwhelmingly ‘yes’ for the reunification of the island and the Greek Cypriots said overwhelmingly ‘no’ for some reason we have never understood.

We expected that they would not be rewarded by the EU. But the EU made a big mistake in accepting them and excluding the northern Cypriots, the Turkish, although they said yes to a peace plan. If you reward the party that has rejected the peace plan and penalize the party that accepted it, this complication will never come to an end. That’s what we are living through, because the Greek Cypriots see their membership in the EU as leverage to block everything. In a way, they stop the process of peace. Whenever something is done, they refuse it. But we still encourage the Turkish Cypriots to sit at any negotiating table, and the negotiations still are ongoing.

This problem can not be solved by other countries or institutions. It can be solved only by the people of Cyprus, the Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots. Meanwhile, the Green line is there, so they can go across, although it is discouraged by the Greek Cypriots. But the gates are open.

WI: Has the Turkish government improved the economy on the other (Turkish Cypriot) side?

Ambassador: They are under isolation and the isolation has not been lifted. They were promised that it would be lifted if they said ‘yes’ to the Annan peace plan. We give every support to the parties to find solutions to their differences at the negotiating table. We encourage the Turkish Cypriots and urge our friends, the Greeks, to do the same with the Greek Cypriots so they can agree on a solution.

WI: And the European Union’s decision?

Ambassador: They made a mistake in accepting one side although it had said ‘no’ to a peace plan. I don’t want to go into details why they did it, but there are reasons.

WI: Is there anything else you would like to say before we end this interview?

Ambassador: I am thankful that you would make our vision known to Americans. It is very important. We want this relationship to be expanded and diversified. We want the alliance to be more powerful. That is the ultimate objective in our minds. We are committed to this relationship. Our objective is to uphold the values that we cherish.

And of course, we want more Americans to come to Turkey. It is easy for me to tell you these things, but for Americans to understand it, they need to come and see Turkey — the transforming and booming Turkish economy, Turkey’s soft power. They have to see it with their own eyes. Then they would understand.

We are located strategically in a crucial part of the world. So we are doing everything we can to generate and resonate peace and stability. That is all we want to do.

TOBAGO: Serene, Spectacular, and Spirited

By Patricia Keegan

My five-hour, nonstop flight to from Washington Dulles toTobago on BWIA (Bee Wee) seemed an unusually quick, pleasant and efficient flight. Since developing an addiction to the beauty of the Caribbean 10 years ago, I have experienced trips which seemed to take forever, especially to the more remote, less visited islands. Most connections take you through San Juan, St. Thomas or Barbados, and may include a second or third leg, or even a boat ride. By the time you reach the destination, you’re tired and frustrated with having wasted a vacation day. Having the convenience of BWIA’s non-stop, five-hour flight is a gift to Washingtonians. Our flight in a new 737 was on time, hassle-free, with an above average meal, and so relaxing one could feel the intensity of Washington just drifting away.

Arriving at Tobago’s Crown Point International around 7 p.m., we rented a car and drove directly to Stonehaven Villas (see Hotel Spotlight column). On our way out to explore the island the following morning, I spotted a tiny ant crossing our doorstep carrying a huge chunk of banana leaf. I wondered if everyone received this flag-waving welcome in homage to Tobago’s ecotourism. 

Considered the last undiscovered island in the Caribbean, Tobago is looked on as the serene, little sister of bustling Trinidad, one of the better known islands in the world. Though very near, they are very opposite. Trinidad is densely populated --1.3 million spread over 1883 sq. miles -- with a cosmopolitan population and strong regional influence. Tobago is a largely rural, undeveloped island of just 117 sq. miles with some 50,000 inhabitants. Both islands are proud of a history of commitment to the openness and interests of many creeds and colors. Its population comprises African and East Indians, with significant European, Chinese, Syrian, Lebanese and Carib components. Trinidad and Tobago are one country under one government in Trinidad, an independent republic within the British Commonwealth. With a GDP of over $9.4 billion, its major export is petroleum.

The National Anthem of Trinidad and Tobago has a few descriptive lines about its vision of diversity:

This our native land

We pledge our lives to thee.

Here every creed and race

Find an equal place,

And may God bless our nation.

The national anthem was written to celebrate Trinidad and Tobago’s independence from Great Britain on August 31, 1962, by native composer Patrick Staniclaus Castagne. Trinidad and Tobago became a republic in 1976.

It is possible to drive around Tobago in one day, but to get to know the natural beauty, the friendly people and their island lifestyle requires taking it day-by-day, enjoying all the diverse activities the island offers. One of the major attractions is a tour of the Tobago  Rain Forest Reserve, the oldest forest reserve in the Western Hemisphere. The biologically diverse forest spreads along the island’s spine with ridges rising to 1,890 feet.  Declared a Crown Reserve in 1776, it is great adventure terrain with many rivers and falls, plenty of hiking trails, and fantastic bird watching.

Adventure comes in all forms. My husband and I were driving north to explore the fishing villages of Speyside and Charlottsville, with a plan to stop for lunch at the famous Jemma’s.  Suddenly, as we came around a bend, a man stepped in front of our car and signaled us to pull over.  He acted like a policeman. We hesitated, but we stopped. He said he worked in the forest and needed a ride. We were driving next to the forest and saw no reason not to take him to his workplace. During the drive we saw a small section of the lush and tranquil forest, with an amazing variety of plants, trees, and exotic birds.

There is a real sense of peace emanating from the trees, some have the worn look of centuries. It is rough terrain, however, with deep ruts in the dirt road. The young man, who introduced himself as Horace, never did find his work area but proceeded with his tour anyway. We also might not have found our way out if he hadn’t decided he wanted a roundtrip and then a big tip. Later, we had a good laugh at ourselves and at Horace, the roving entrepreneur, recalling the uncertain moment when he took a knife out of a pocket, looked at us, and then up at a papaya tree. We said, “Yes,” we would like some fruit. To really explore the forest one needs a proper guide and a four-wheel drive jeep.

Heading toward Charlottsville, we found Jemma’s Seaview Kitchen along the main road in Speyside. The tantalizing fragrance of herbs and spices reached us before we even saw the restaurant. This is a hot spot and does such a great business that Jemma’s footprint in the sand keeps growing. We found a table in the restaurant’s treetop overlooking the sea with a strong breeze that felt as though you were aboard a ship. From an immense choice, we selected kingfish with vegetables, potato cakes, yucca, a salad and homemade bread. The service was great, and the food kept coming, served on huge platters to satisfy huge appetites.   Later, I went back into the garden to meet Jemma, sitting under a tree with her two daughters, Sherrere and Neile, busily shelling green peas. All three were the picture of contentment. Jemma Sealey had worked at the Blue Waters Inn, a lovely hotel nearby, and at other hotels on the island since she was a young girl, learning all aspects of guest service. But what she liked best was preparing unique and flavorful dishes to please. About 10 years ago she went into business for herself, opening Jemma’s Seaview Kitchen, now one of the island’s great success stories.

In the search for dream beaches, everybody we asked gave us the name of a different beach and we tried them all. Pigeon Point, where you can take a glassbotton boat out to Nylon Pool and the Buccoo Coral Reef; Castara Bay and Bloody Bay; or Englishman’s Bay, with its blue crystalline waters, which we thoroughly enjoyed.  At this tranquil, secluded beach, snorkelers must be alert to surges that wash up on the beach and steal your snorkeling gear. The reef is just 20 meters offshore with a depth of 10-30 feet and excellent visibility. It was our number one choice for a picnic, snorkeling and a relaxing afternoon. The dream beaches are on the northwest coast from Plymouth to Bloody Bay Outlook. When brochures tell you that Tobago has beautiful beaches, they are not overstating that fact.

Tobago is known for world-class diving with some of the best diving areas located in Speyside. Many deep-sea fish are found much closer to the surface than normal because of the Guyana current which moves slowly up the eastern coast of South America, washing the south and east coasts of Tobago. Fed by the Orinoco River, the water is warm and rich in nutrients, ideally suited to sustain a wide variety of marine life. For the expert diver, an exciting underwater experience is drift diving, where you are taken along with the current and a boat picks you up at the other end. Divers have little difficulty sighting barracudas, dolphins, whale sharks, turtles and porpoises, as well as manta rays. Even in a glass bottom boat the variety is continuous -- butterfly fish, queen and French angels, damsels, spotted moray eels, parrotfish and grunts -- and even rarer species of tarpon and triggerfish are regular residents. Tobago’s underwater visibility regularly reaches 130-150 ft. Below the surface, cliffs form rocky canyons, underwater tunnels, deep and shallow caves, and currents drift past sheer walls and giant rock faces. Here you will find every known species of hard coral, most of the soft corals, as well as the world’s largest known brain coral, 12 ft. high and 16 ft. across. Guides seem to do a good job of advising tourists to avoid stepping on the live coral and asking them to respect Tobago’s one-of-a-kind ecosystem.

As the capital of Tobago, Scarborough is the only large town on the island and it seems unwieldy and untidy until you know your way around and learn how to avoid falling off the sidewalks. There must have been a reason for constructing them so high above street level, but I couldn’t figure it out. Nevertheless, Scarborough is a capital with tremendous potential. Since Trinidad and Tobago have depended mostly on oil revenue, one feels that this little sister has been a bit neglected. With its tremendous potential for attracting tourists, it would be great to see more restaurants, boutiques, art shops, etc, along the waterfront. There sits an investor’s dream waiting for some polish and sparkle.

A trip to Tobago without a visit to the Tobago Museum would be a great loss, for here the heart and history of Tobago come together. Located on a strategic promontory within Fort King George, the small, but densely packed museum, houses a substantial collection of Pre-Columbian Amerindian Artifacts from 2500 BC all the way to 1792. Beautiful clay pottery, animal and human forms document a rich cultural history. Carib hunting gear, spears, and grave remains are displayed. Here you can also see a Joupa, a circular Amerindian house. There is so much interest in this museum that there are plans for a major extension.

One of the great pleasures of Tobago is meeting and talking with the people. A prime example of Tobago friendliness, graciousness and subtle wit is Edward Hernandez, the curator/trustee of the Museum. Hernandez, an artist, takes time to answer questions and  tells wonderful stories about Trinidad and Tobago’s unique history and its rich treasure of folklore and legends.  He mentioned a history book :Tobago: Melancholy Isle,  Vol. 1, the years 1498-1711 and Vol. 2,  1712-1814, by Douglas Archibald.  Written in three volumes, the third volume, which continues from 1814 to the present period, is still waiting to be published. It was completed shortly before the author passed away.

Evenings in Tobago bring out the spirit of the islands. On Saturday night we had three choices for entertainment -- the Buccooneers steel band at Sandy Point Village, a band at Turtle Beach Hotel andSoul Expression at Pelican Park. There was jazz at the Hilton on Sunday.

The  Buccooneers, a 16-piece steel orchestra, were fabulous. Playing again in their home village of Buccoo on Tuesday. they bring out the dance bug and free spirit in even the most reluctant dancer, and they have a following of energetic dancers who are hilarious to watch on the dance floor. With an eclectic variety of tunes, from Frank Sinatra’s My Way to the Merry Widow Waltz, all performed with a ripple of sound that echoes across the island and lifts above the waves. The Buccooneers started as an unsponsored band in the village of Buccoo in 1967. They have played in the U.S. and won many competitions.

On this beautiful, untamed island there are many hotels, villas, and bed and breakfasts to choose from. If you want the very best, my top three recommendations would be Stonehaven Villas, Villa Being, or the new Hilton Hotel. But it is also possible to have comfort while sticking to a modest budget. Moderately priced small hotels and guesthouses are abundant in Tobago.

Almost every month holds a celebration or carnival. From New Year’s Day onwards activities on the island start swinging into full gear, culminating on Carnival Monday two days before Ash Wednesday. The renowned Trinidad Carnival, with its fantasy costumes, floats, steel bands and calypso is imitated in hundreds of cities around the world. Carnival fever brings together all the talent of the islands culminating in a glittering 'theater in the streets.”  When Christian Lent is over, Hindu  Phagwa arrives, with celebrants happily squirting purple dye at each other. In contrast, the quiet beauty and spirituality of Divali, an East Indian Festival held in November, ignites thousands of flames that flicker across the island.

Getting there:  BWIA has one non-stop flight every Thursday from Washington Dulles, returning every Thursday from Tobago, at very reasonable prices:

From Dulles: Flight 705 departs at 2:00 p.m. and arrives in Tobago at 7:45 p.m. (1 hr. time difference).

From Tobago: Flight 704 departs at 8:45 a.m. and arrives at Dulles at 12:45 p.m.

For travelers who prefer a shorter stay, connections to Trinidad on an island hopper are frequent, with connections to Washington on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday.

For more information call BWIA at (800) 538-2942.